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JL Audio everytime, you can pick up 10w6v2 subs for around £100, then you'll need a 500.1 Slash amp which go for arounf £150. £60-80 should get you a box made upto spec and away you go. I've had many subs before and now avoid Fli,vibe and other halfords brands. Alpine do some good stuff and ive always liked pioneer after having 2 12" 304C's in my Nova running of a PG XS220 amp.

Doesnt look to have brembos either so brakes are a bit cheaper to replace. I was checking out this the other day after someone linked me... http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3428410.htm

How did you connect the perm live to ign live, did you connect the red to the yellow wire. If you did and it worked perfect then it would suggect the live feed is enough and a fault with the ign or headunit.

Wiring it up correctly would be my first port of call. It is possible for the radio to turn on without the extra earth wire if the headunit is bolted to the car as it can earth itself through the casing.

You need the seperate earth, also check the connections where you connect the earth. It will work sometimes without it as the headunit earths itself through the mount but this isnt enough to give it a good 12v feed. There are a couple bolts at the top behind the dials where you can earth it.

I dont think you have it wired up correct. Where is the blue wire connected to? Did you run a seperate earth to the chassis? ps. You shouldnt need a direct battery feed, the old Alpine 60w units use to need this but newer models dont. If you do plan on connecting the yellow perm live to the battery dont forget to use an inline fuse close to the battery end.

Pull the rubber boot trim off along the back. The centre plastic trim then needs to be pulled off. You can then remove the carpet at the sides which will give you access to the rear of the lights.

For the reverse light you need to test the wires going into one of the rear light clusters for the one that is live when the car is in reverse.

The red and white rca lead are for the front speakers so need to go to the FL and FR on the headunit. The yellow and black rca lead are for the rear speakers so need to go to the RL and RR on the headunit. You need to connect all 4 rca plugs up.

I crossed out the big yellow tape as u don't need this, you already connect the lose black wire to the black wire on the loom. Instead u need to run a wire from the black on the headunit loom to the cars chassis as the original cost loom on the car doesny have an earth.

Looking at the first picture.... Blue wire on the left goes to blue ? wire. Brown Tel wire not used. Black ? wire needs to connect to the black earth wire coming out of the headunit (top connect in picture) but very important this also needs another wire coming of it to go to the chassis of the car. You also need to plug the black and yellow RCA's into the rear rca outputs of the headunit, which you havent done in either picture.

Wasted about 5 hours yesterday on multiplayer. One thing that is really annoying me though is the auto crouch/prone. Is there a way to turn this off? At one point i was hiding behind a wall shooting at someone, i moved back to take cover and stood up as i lost sight of my target.

Assuming the 06 is a facelift car its still going to be a 300ps model where as the first car is a 313ps HR engine which could be a factor.

The sat nav socket has wires for the audio that are as follows... Pin 18 - Navi Earth Pin 19 - Navi Input (-) Pin 20 - Navi Input (+) I wired these into a pair of phonos that then plugged into the back of my headunit.

1) This is possible as i did it with my Alpine 9886R. It wasnt a perfect solution though as i had to wire it into the aux input so you would only hear the sat nav when aux input source was selected, so no music at the same time. 2) I dont think this is possible as the steering wheel interface is setup to use the phone buttons to change tracks/folders on aftermarket headunits.

Q1 and Q4, Yes the loose black/white wire needs to attach to the black wire on the other white connector. You also need to extend this wire and attach it to an earth on the car. Q2, The loose blue/white wire thats with the black one needs to connect to the amp remote wire from your new headunit, its normally a blue wire coming our the headunit harness. Q3, And yes you need to connect the steering wheel remote wire to the JVC patch lead that you brought.

If you havent already seen it neo-ninja did a good write up on how to fit these to a 350Z.... viewtopic.php?f=17&t=45649&start=0 They are really easy to fit as the 350Z's bumper comes of pretty easy. I fitted the EPS200 kit to my financee's 2007 Tigra and they work really well.

Isnt the mini jack next to the usb meant to go in the AUX input next to the blue socket? Looks like you have it in the OPT input.

The yellow and black RCA are the rear Left/Right, not for parking cameras as you were told.

I used the standard earth for my headunit, you can always just bolt it to the chassis if you wanted. For the amps i just used 2 off the bolts that held the subwoofer plate in place, not that tidy but it did the job....

I was really impressed with my JL TR650 Csi running of a slash 300.2 amp considering they only cost £100.

These are not for the AV but are the Rear L and R, they are black and yellow so not to confuse them with the fronts, you need to connect these to the rear outputs of your headunit and set the headunit to front/rear not front/sub. Everything is explained clearly in the sticky thead..... viewtopic.php?f=17&t=31260&p=457835

I doult the HPI will even say if its a 300ps or not as the V5 log books dont, people always get them wrong, best bet is to send people on a here a picture of the car or just check for the facelift interior if its not a GT4.

Leave them stock, you can upgrade them but i prefer my sound stage more forward so fade them out 70-80% anyway so didnt see the need to upgrade.

They still not sold it mate? Man... they must be kicking themselves now! Unless they were happy to come out evens on the zed and trade off the profit of the car sold? The car needs 2 rear tyres and a service before they sell it on not to mention other costs involved in transporting the car and turning it around. The car we brought was up for £6250 at another dealership, we ended up getting it for £5900 OTR delivered and they did quite a bit of work on it to get it mint so i dont think there was much profit in that car either.