un1eash

The bose sub does have alot more to give if driven from an aftermarket headunit.

Its possible its power related, turn the headlights on and see if they dim when the power drops on the headunit. Does it do it when the car is driving along with higher revs? Other then that its most likely a cheap headunit with a fault.

I built a rack for my 2 amps and placed it where the old bose sub went leaving the passenger glove box free. You could do something with the 6.5" subs but would need to find a way to make an enclosure for them. A small box under the strut still leaves a decent size boot.

Use this thread to work out the wires...... http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/14773-got-the-headunit-out-but-what-is-this-connection/ Looks like who ever did it cut corners as they didn't want to pay for the plug and play loom. I would start over by reconnecting all wires where they've been cut and also check that the speakers are using the factory wiring not the red and black stuff you have there.

Whats your budget? Also add around £60 for the fascia, wiring loom and steering wheel control adaptor.

The head unit sends the signal to the amp though. Bad signal = Bad quality.

I think he's got the stock no bose system so no RCA's. I would pull the headunit as its easier and wire a speaker directly to the back to check each speaker output, then i'd move to the rear speaker once i know the headunits not at fault.

Its a bit of a pain but i would start by checking the wiring at the speaker, it does mean removing half the interior to get at it though.

Are you trying to play your tablet through the head unit. If so you need an aux input on the head unit. I dont understand what your saying about your amp.

If you want cheap and cheerful then yes they do the job without blowing up the world.

Those ebay units are rubbish, i'd rather buy a ripspeed unit from halfords. They are cheap in every way possible and wont last long.

Its nothing to do with the antenna wire, you need to make sure the earths are all wired up including the extra earh wire to the chassis that turns on the bose amp as the standard bose system grounds through the unit. Some people get lucky as the antenna is enough to earth the system but you should do it as in this guide.... http://www.350z-uk.com/index.php?showtopic=30112

Are we talking aftermarket headunit or bose? On aftermarket headunits the remote amp wire is nearly always blue, sometimes has a white line on it.

Patch into the cig lighter behind the panel so its not visible.

It could still work if you wire the bose into the speaker outputs instead of using the preouts, then usually the rear pre out can be changed to a sub one that can control a future additional sub. If you want to amp and replace all the speakers then 3 pre outs would be best.

Sounds like 2. With a video input and 1 audio input and 1 audio output. 4 just means left and right x2, same with the audio input/outputs.

It makes it loud enough you dont need to turn the volume upto full.

Pull the headunit out and check all the wiring, its possible it use to have aftermarket speakers amp and in the haste of converting it back to bose they've missed a connection. The stock sat nav is stand alone so should work with the bose headunit also. My bet would be on the extra ground wire needed to turn the bose amp on, everyone always forget this.

It would require a custom fascia to get in the sat nav cubby hole. Best would most likely be replace the sat nav with the cubby box and replace the existing headunit with a double din sat nav unit.

That unit has 3 preouts, if using the preout method to hook upto the bose system 3 will give you more scope for the future but if people are wiring them directly to the speaker outputs then that leaves the preouts on the headunit free to control a seperate sub.

You cant directly feed the bose sub, the front and rear signal goes to the bose amp in the boot, this then sends a signal to the sub amp. I guess you could in theory do it but i dont know anyone who has. You'd need to work out what type of signal the bose sub amp takes, it could just be a low level signal.

I used the ICT loom also even though my 9886R has a built in remote interface.

You ideally want a headunit with 3 preouts so you can control the sub,front and rears independently. No need to go double din if you dont want, you can get some decent headunits with ipod,sd card,usb etc now for well under £200.

The bose sub does have some power, its the position that i dont like. I swapped out the headunit first and used my imprint processor and the bose sub had plenty of kick, it just felt wrong and was annoying that you felt it in your back all the time so it had to go.

The headunit is the first thing you should look to upgrade. Without it you'll struggle to get decent sound from the stock headunit without fancy external crossovers. You can save some money though and not bother reaplacing the rear speakers. Buy a decent active subwoofer and a 2 channel amp to power the fronts.