un1eash

I had my uk 300 showing 38mpg on a long run before. Around town, 11mpg with average speed of 22mph.

When it comes to car audio everyone has there favorite brand, I stick to JL now and have always had Alpine headunits. I personally wouldn't bother upgrading the rears, I've always just concentrated on the fronts.

The only connection between the bose unit and the sat nav is a connection to send the sat nav sound through the bose system. The Sat nav is stand alone and will work on its on even without the bose unit present. When fitting an aftermarket unit you lose the sat nav sound. I got around this by making a lead that plugged into the aftermarket untis aux input but this meant you either had music or sat nav, not both.

It's the low voltage preouts that cause low volume if you use the preout rca's to feed the bose amp. With the buster mod though this is irrelevant as you can just use the high level speaker outputs.

The amps the size of a cigarette packet so its hard to believe its the amp for the subwoofer.

Sub amp sits next to the sub on the reverse of the panel. It takes its signal from the speaker amp in the boot.

This is top runner for being the replacement to our Alfa GT. There was one for sale for £15k at Nissan Cambridge the other week, cheapest 2wd manual at the moment is £16.5k.

There's plenty of wasted space under the boot floor and where the existing sub goes so they could of used that space better. Losing that little bit of space under the strut bar never bothered me.

I never liked the bose sub position, to much bass there was just annoying as you felt it hitting you in the back. Bass should be non directional and just fill the car with nice clean sound. They could of done a better job if they made the bose sub enclosed and ported into the boot space.

The top 2 are for speakers and power. Bottom left is for sat nav and the bottom right is us spec for external CD changer or sat radio.

The new Alpine stuff isn't that great though compared to the old stuff, they seem to be getting cheaper and cheaper. Recently got a cheap bluetooth pioneer and its ok.

The factory nav is a standalone system so it should be pretty much a plug and play job. What sort of wires and connectors are in the kit.

Upgrading the headunit will give you more from the bose subwoofer. Most aftermarket subs require an enclosed box so something like that will need a custom box built.

Save some money and stick with the stock rears. I went for a full JL system and it sounded great, the 10w6v2 subwoofer redefined bass for me as its pure quality and kicks hard when needed.

No you don't.

The Bose sub is open air and most aftermarket subs require a sealed or ported box. Also im not a fan of having that much bass behind the drivers seat. The performance difference from say a JL W6 sub and the Bose sub is massive.

If your using the Bose speakers and amp then you don't need to use the sub RCA's. The Bose sub takes its feed from the front and rear signal.

I got mine of eBay for £7-8.

Torque Pro with an obd2 Bluetooth dongle is great. It does so many things its a must have now for me.

Ps. the OEM phone system wont work with an aftermarket headunit.

This should help... Top row. Grey,Empty,White/Blue,Green/White,Red,Orange Bottom row. Pink/Black,Red/Blue, Gap , Green, White

The image and wire colors i posted on the other thread match the wire colors perfectly.

1 – Orange – Fr Sp LH (-) Amp 2 – White – Fr Sp LH (+) Amp 3 – Red – Fr Sp RH (-) Amp 4 – Green – Fr Sp RH (+) Amp 5 – Green/White – Ant Signal 6 – White/Blue – Back Up 8 – Red/Blue - Lighting Switch 9 – Black - Earth 10 – Pink/Blue – Acc

The image from the sticky has gone but the 3 wires from the incartec should connect as follows.. ICT Unit white Cable -> Red/Green Cable ICT Unit Grey Cable -> Orange/Silver Cable ICT Unit Purple Cable -> Yellow/Green Cable colours may vary, some adaptors came with a connector so it was plug and play but mine had loose wires from the ICT unit.

There are only 3 wires that come from the steering wheel controls that control all the buttons. These 3 wires connect to the steering wheel control interface.