Toon Chris

Hope its not a repost - its very well done.

Is it really what the OP wants? I have one of these which does the asame thing i.e scans and reads the codes and lets you clear them out. http://www.amazon.co...ef=pd_sim_ce_12 They don't really show you much information. Sounds to me like the OP wants one of these: http://www.obdsoftware.net/

I always use CeX (Computer excahnge). The prices online are clear, you can walk in the shop and they will examne it there and then. Prices are near the top although never the highest. Actually being in a shop does have some real advantages

omg

I had a Japspeed and the flexis went within a year. They have a reputation of being poor quality. My Cobra was at the time the cheapest, decent Y-pipe and its doing sterling work. Quality shows. If you want to fit your own flexis just search on line. They are not expensive but you will have to have them welded in. Its still cheaper than a new Y pipe though. If you fancy a practice you can have my old Japspeed Y pipe and put new flexis in that, I can't be arsed. £20 + postage which will be about £7.00

That vid shows how tough they are, not good as a bargaining point on safety Mind you, any accident that does 70-0 like that will kill you with internal injuries anyway unless you are very lucky (doctor friend once told me main arteries rip off organs - nice to hear over dinner). Try her with a Suzuki Cappachino? At least its sort of sporty looking and not a cube.

Do you walk round every day with your eyes closed? Attractive young ladies are used to sell everything from perfume to supermarkets, and moreso when the product is aimed at men, its been happening for over 60 years. Of course not, it's everywhere, but that doesn't make it right. Its fine for those who choose to do it - that's a liberal and democratic society - but not so good for the rest of women who get objectified by inference. I'm not looking for a rant. My opinon thats all.

Um, are those 'fluxbabes' anything to do with Adrain Flux insurance? If so it's time to cancel my insurance with them. To me, a chat about whether your car attracts women to you is not necessarily offensive (depending ont he comments), but the use of provocativley dressed women to decorate a car is.

+1 for a dirty throttle butterfly. Once cleaned don't forget to do an idle air reset or the reves will hover at 1.5K and do your head in!

Aha! In via the liner. Thanks Alex, i will of course be in touch if it has conked out

Since having some work done on my steering fluid cooler my washers have been mysteriously silent and non-functional. I suspect a connection to the motor has been taken off and not put back on. Looking in from the top the washer fluid tube dissapears into the depths of the engine bay. Before I take the entire engine out to find the connector, can anyone tell me where to be looking that might make it a little easier? And do i go in from the top or the bottom? Cheers

Great series. Blatent thread hijack Happy Endings, series 3, ep22, Deuce.Babylove.2.Electric.Babydeuce Almost the last scene.

That cop's limping for the camera.

Power steering fluid doesn't just evaporate. Check the seals in the system for weeps/leaks. For me they have always been the pipes round the cooling rad.

Quite, slip it like crazy and 40K is a lucky target. My clutches last for ever

Is it a double-barrelled pinapple gun?

Ha, just takes practice, I'm a dab hand at it now, can rattle one off every time

BTW, I'm in Newcastle so next time - if there is one - PM me and I'll read your code for you.

First a big thanks to Zmanalex who supplied all the parts very quickly and efficiently, and with good pricing too. I had a recent service, the full deal with plugs etc and was looking to those new plugs giving that 1% more zing, especially with nice 5/30 oil replacing the previous 5/60 (got to be 0.1% drag on the engine with a 60w so thats another 0.29hp gained). Not long afterwards up popped a P3045 error for a cam sensor failure and the car was in limp dishcloth mode. One replacement later and all was good.. For good measure I cleaned the throttle body and maf with carb cleaner. I'm not a muppet so was careful and its not like its something I haven't done for my other cars but after finishing the idle was way too high. After checking for leaks (oops, crank recycle pipe loose - maybe I am a muppet) nothing was any better. Local performance garage agreed it was the maf so again Alex helped me out. New maf fitted and no damn difference! My old maf had done 149,500 miles so how can a new one be no damn different! Gnashing of teeth and an annoyed wife later (annoyed at me for being grumpy) another forum came to my rescue. After cleaning the throttle body, use the Idle Air Volume Learning procedure. I'm pretty good at the ecu peddle dance now so a minute later all fixed. I'm only typing this up as I couldn't find it here by searching but hopefully I have used enough key words like 'high idle' problem' and 'throttle body clean' to mean that the next person to try and solve this problem will find this thread. Ps, its been a pricey month! Idle Air Volume Learning 1) Leave ACC pedal “as is†2) Start engine and warm up to operating temp – temp gauge around middle 3) Turn IGN switch “OFF†– at least 10 sec 4) Turn IGN switch “ON†– 3 sec 5) Fully depress and release ACC pedal – 5 times within 5 sec 6) Wait 7 sec 7) Fully depress ACC pedal for appr 20 sec – during this time CEL blinks 8) When CEL light is “ONâ€, not blinking – fully release ACC pedal 9) Turn the engine “ON†within 3 sec 10) Start engine and idle 11) Wait 20 sec 12) Rev engine 2-3 times and check IDLE and TIMING

What paint did you use? I used matt black Plasticote from Wilkos and it matches in well and seems to be holding strong.

I get 22K-24K on Vreds on the rear. Fronts last for ever so you need 2 sets of rear for one set of fronts. So cost-wise thats 6 tyres for about 45K.

Is that how much he is paying per month?

I bought this one on recommendation from some nice chappy from the forum. Works a treat and also has a nice book of common fault codes and CD of tons of car-specific codes. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230644533100

I repair keys for a hobby and although this method was once used to detect the alarm and locking signal and allow a cloned signal to be sent to disable the alarm, it’s not going to help anyone start a car with a modern immobiliser system and is defunct for any modern car. As a rough rule only decent cars designed about 20 years ago will have alarm systems that are not encrypted and can have the alarm systems compromised with a scanning system. Some cheaper models still do use poor security system but they tend to be the models no-one wants to steal As far as stealing the car is concerned, nowadays just about any decent car uses a passive chip in the key which powers up only when in very close proximity to an aerial in the car - usually round the steering column or the slot you push the key into. Some use similar but still short range systems that check if the key is in your pocket. All activate only when the ignition is active which is not going to be when you have stopped the engine. I know people on this forum have tried moving the immobiliser chip for the Z into flip-style keys and had some problems as the chip is too far from the power-up induction aerial, they are that sensitive and short-range. Even if the scanner could pick up the signal which is extremely doubtful, the signal is heavily encrypted and uses a rolling code system (which incidentally so do modern remote alarm/locking too). Systems like this can be fiendish to clone and usually require a 3-5 step process with relatively expensive equipment and the original key (easy to do if you give someone your key and car though, obviously). In addition, for a very long time the majority cars have had locked ECUs. You simply can’t get into the ECU and program the car to accept a new key without the ECU code. That’s not something a scanner in the street is going to pick up. So this article is simply not accurate for higher end cars like BMW, Mercedes etc where getting round the immobiliser definitely cannot be done so simply. I suspect its based on information from a time when modern immobiliser systems were not used and when it was possible to scan for alarm key signals in the street where the signals were not encrypted. That’s got to be at least 20 years ago and maybe more for the higher end manufactures.