Toon Chris

Oh c'mon, don't make me say it...

Nah, just swap the sensor. Don't worry about all the other things it could be, you have the classic symptoms so stick with what is a common problem (on all cars really). If you don't want a new sensor Zmanalex might have a decent second hand one.

I might be wrong but wasn't there a post from one of the experts a while ago that said this can happen if something is fitted the wrong way around, and it was easy to do if the fitters were not Z experienced? I don't want to worry you though, I may be wrong If the bite is very low, as in silly low, then adjusting the pedal does not seem right as it should never really have to be adjusted to make the car drivable. Personally I'd go for the bleed of the slave first.

Why are we whispering?

Is that a Klingon battle weapon ?

So we are over the hill past 100,000? Over quite a few hills I suppose This poll needs few more graduations after 100K IMO

How about the Subaru XV? Good on the off-road, good hight, a bit tougher than a standard cross-over but not a flat-bed pickup.

Should have called this thread 'Does an UpRev tune 'wear out'' ? as RS Tuning is the company

It's a custom mapping done by RS tuning in Leeds. Recently the MAF and all Lambdas have been changed so I wondered if this and also any injector wear etc really mattered or if the mapping coped ok with these subtle changes. Probably only Abbey have the experience to know the answer?

I've had my RS tuning done on the car about 100K miles ago. Everything seems generally fine and ok but I wondered if it needs redoing now, not for peak power but because various engine components won't be as good as they once were?

Cheers I've had a few other related codes which make me suspect rear O2's and I have some replacements. If the problem goes away then I'll let you know She has done a few miles so injectors are also a possibility but the codes appear at certain times so I'm going with O2s first. I've got the RS tuning so I did wonder if it needs adjusting or redoing now the car has done 100K miles since it was first done. I'll post that up separately.

Just what I needed today - but the code I want is missing P1275 seems to be skipped.

There is nothing wrong with the earlier gearbox IMO. Mines done 155K and is still sweet. You can replace the rear lights for the led versions for about £300-ish so don't let that be a blocker.

Current bugbear: people who constantly dab their brakes, despite being on a straight road like the A1 and with plenty of room in front of them. Its like they *must* maintain that 200M distance to the car in front, no more, no less. When it's dark its like being constantly flashed. I try to stay calm but do sometimes end up screaming 'Take your foot of the ***** brake pedal you *****!'

Top tip, I bought 2 as well

They rattle like heck with a lightened flywheel. Usually up to about 2K revs when the noise goes away. Or maybe the release bearing is going, but really the rattle is quite loud normally. Replace the oil with the correct genuine Nissan oil for the car - nothing else, no matter how fantastic it is supposed to be. It must be the genuine oil or you will have problems. Add some molyslip though, that can help. All info gained form Alex in the past If the gearbox works then what's the problem with a little noise But if its starting to feel odd then Alex is your best bet, and a lot cheaper that a new one I'm sure .

I've been toying with the idea of selling up (I want a 370 now). Newcomers like this make me feel a little happier as I have the perfect car for them. Modified to get the sounds and the responsiveness but nothing done to the body as that's not my scene. This means a good buy for someone who wants to spend anything extra getting the car to look how they like it. Its a high-miler but all on the motorway and she is as sweet as a nut and looked after mechanically to the extreme. Its painful but she will be a good buy for someone when the time comes.

I've never tried it but if you return something the rules say you can claim the tax charge back again.

Its a known phenomenon that there is a transmission whine at just below 80mph, there was a brief discussion about it here a while ago. If the whine is related to road speed then it may help to know my rear wheel bearings also whined when they needed replacing, whereas the fronts did the normal grumble/rumble. Its probably too noisy in the rear to hear the rumbling of wheel bearings on the way out. Its going to be cheaper to fix if its a wheel bearing If it really is the diff then IMO change the oil for some genuine Nissan and add some molyslip and live with it. Buy a louder amp

I tend to not be able to find the damn thing in the car park. Oh wait, thats not a dream.

What is cooler? Mine points at just under the horizontal and never budges.

If not an airlock then have you got colour change coolant that can indicate a gas leak? If gas keeps getting in then a head gasket leak is possible. Maybe your radweld has bunged up some of the rad, can you flush that through as well?

It's dated 05/08/2013 in the top left through the whole video and posted on 6 Jan 2014

Sorry to say you are stuffed. Only a recorded postage option will stand up if he makes a claim against you - unless he has a history of doing this in which case you have a slim chance. It's not fair but some people just wait for this sort of thing so they can take advantage. Alternatively he may be telling the truth although I have to say I post loads and it's over the years only 2 things have gone missing.

Quite. Replacing the passenger window glass isn't that hard to do. 1 hour job or less, or any garage could do it easily in that time. The guide to replacing the window motor give all the info needed.