Toon Chris

An after-market washer pump is £20-£30, try Clarke Motorsports. they are not so hard to fit but I was lazy and had mine done by the garage when they had the undertray off an it took them a few minutes. Blockages are usually the non-return valve. Have a search, that's the easiest diy fix.

So what he said

Someone in the know once told me, from experience, that once the friction plate material wears out the studs can very quickly score and ruin the flywheel surface. As in under 100 miles. Whether you replace early could be influenced by if you intend to replace the fly or not. Personally I would rather replace a clutch on my terms than wait for it to start to fail as I'm driving somewhere.

And just for reference, the Z uses a separate brake shoe system for the handbrake.

Is it just me? I can't see anything. no vid no link.

Meh Meh, all throttle bodies get dirty, every one, and all throttle bodies will have to be celaned at some time. The Z uses a common crank breather system where any blow-by gases are fed back into the intake to burn them off. In the old days they were shunted out to the fresh air, but of course that eventually stops the air being fresh for everyone. Slowly but surely oily crud will build up, especially if you happen to use higher revs regularly on an engine that is no longer in the first flush of youth (or you have a HR engine which IMO are practically diesels with the amount of oil they get through . BIg up the DE's ) Basically, clean it or at least whip the pipe off and visually check it

Possibly a dirty throttle butterfly for yours.

I didn't get a CEL on mine. And a pre-owned part wasn't expensive. Considering there is a reasonable way to test (i.e get the car warm) then no need to buy parts unnecessarily. As its a part that fails when warm its not so easy to test, and as it costs only a little more than the price of getting a mechanic to take the old one of and test it in the first place, its still a good candidate for a punt IMO.

Mine had that advisory too at MOT time. When I took a closer look it turns out they can look pretty bad but actually its surface rust and muck only. Get under it with goggles on and wire brush it. Poke it with a screwdriver too and If it looks solid smother it in sealant and it will pass next time. Considering the complete ball-ache removing the old one will be, its worth the effort.

A common problem could be the cam position sensor failing. Start the car from cold and then let it warm up. If it cuts out when warm, possibly after 15-20 mins but you can restart it after a few minutes then there is your likely culprit. You will have an intermittent problem to start with but it will get worse over time. The part is cheap(ish) and easily fitted yourself so worth a try in any case.

Yorkshire is pretty big, where have you looked so far? I used to live in East Yorkshire but can't say it would be first choice of area. Have you thought about Northumberland? Its not far away and well worth a look. Very easy to fall in love with i can assure you. Or if that is too far north how about the Eden valley as its so close to the Lakes and easy to get to North Yorks? Are you a city, town, village or country isolation sort of a person?

FTFY FTFY2 FTFY3 Please refer to post 52 above I was initially going to let that go, but when Toon Chris made the same mistake as you, I felt I had to respond in my defence ... anyway, let's not fall out about it I'm humbled .... To be fair, I'm rather impressed

A third vote for the throttle butterfly. Sounds like it has god some crud build-up. The MAF is not as likely when its only affecting cold start running. Take off the air inlet pipe to reveal the throttle unit and the butterfly throttle plate and spray liberally around the edges with carb cleaner (not brake cleaner). Leave to dissolve the muck for a few minutes. A lot of folk will tell you not to do this next bit but I have done it many times on all my cars and to no bad effect. Wearing thin plastic gloves (like you get at the garage at the diesel pump) , or with cling-film or a plastic bag over your hand, slowly push the top of the throttle plate and it will open. The gloves stop the carb cleaner irritating the skin. Do not force it or you may break the mechanism. Gentle and slow is all you need. Agitate the crud along the line where the throttle butterfly closes. You are likely to be able to see this line quite easily. Agitate the crud with a toothbrush and spray again as necessary. Reassemble and despair as your car ticks over at a healthy 2.5K revs . Don't worry, all you need to do now is the idle learn procedure and you are done.

Don't you mean "Don't forget punctuation... very important" The grammatical sentence construction can be forgiven, but the extra space - never!

It depends if you want the car to look lowered, or to look natural. For me a 15mm (or the Tien 14/17 if you prefer) is spot on for making the car look like its 'supposed' to look, whilst at the same time not looking like its been deliberately lowered. I hope you see what I mean. Also you won't get and speed-bump issues. I originally had 25mm drops on my ajustables but got sick of losing bits of flexi-pipe on bumps every few weeks. I had 20mm spacers all round as recommended by Big Phil, a back-in-the-day Z specialist, but I'll bow to the peer opinion that 25mm are better on the back. Spacers are a must but make sure they are a good brand like Eibach.

Nail on the head there mate, its hard to drive in manual paddle mode when you can't hear the engine. There are two 'bulge' silencers on mine which look like cherry bombs, so I was seriously considering actually putting some cherry bombs on instead for a little bit of rasp under the car. A turbo diesel with cherry bombs: not something you see (hear?) often so I might just do it for the hell of it

Nice comment... "It seemed to be a plausible story until Ford and 118mph were mentioned in the same sentance" [sic]

I've got a Infiniti Fx. Sadly not the 5 litre petrol V8 but I did try one and if you can stand the low 20s mpg then they seriously shift. They do the 3.7 V6 too and its build on the 370Z chassis. 0-10 is sluggish but after that they go like stink. Only the Porsche Cayenne is in the same class (I don't count the Range Rover as they don't handle well enough). Some of the Yanks have dropped them a few inches and they look pretty cool like that too. Oh, and the wheels are mega, mine are 22"

I did the passenger side one myself, must of taken me 4 hours. A lot of bleeding knuckles, swearing and throwing of nearby objects. I had to use a trolley jack to loosen most of the bolts especially difficult was the 20mm ( I think it was 20mm....) holding the calliper on. Would not budge! The rears are not so bad once you get to them, but the fronts can seize into the 'cup' that holds them and its serious lump hammer time to get them out.

That price looks ok. I've plenty of wheel bearing experience and some of them came off easily whilst others needed a damn good beating for an hour. Er, that sounded a lot dodgier than was intended.

So to speak...

For a good price do not be worried about 90K, it's not even half way through its life. Its a good way for you to get a cheaper car.

The seller won't like it much but if its had an uprev the upper rev limit will be higher than stock.

My bet is on a heat shield, like Will

How about the bag or burning dog poo on the front porch trick