Darren-B

The FRS is fine, I've fitted 8-10 of these now so have a good idea on what to do & what not to do, as previously said it was tried & tested. If there was a leak on the return pipe you would know about it. On idle then the return flow will be at it's greatest if there was a leak you would see/smell the fuel leaking under the car. Personally I'm putting the fuel smell down to the de-cats. It's the first thing I noticed on mine when I went de-cats.

Already have all the gear but not a very powerful MIG, it's fine for thin repair stuff but has a low duty cycle when you crank up the amperage

Then again I think the MIG Welder might be a little more affordable http://www.migtigarc.co.uk/MIG_Welder/SWP_MIG_220/swp_mig_220.html

Cool, will be nice if my little package/pallet turns up by then We can have a party @ RT Performance again

Here's one for sale: http://www.raptoravi...ages/Mig29.html Adrian your a genius, why didn't I think of some thing like this before Max Speed Hi 2.4 Mach Range 1100 miles

Pop over today if you like Will/Dave (not the whole forum

I think all that power would spoil a 240, plus I wouldn't fancy a high speed mis-hap in a 240. Adrian.....................Are you home yet??????? we need to finish your car

Thanks guys, Just ordered a load more parts from the US this evening Also have now received most of the electrical bits & pieces ready for the re-wire next year & on the hunt for a half decent used MIG but they seem to be selling at nigh on new prices, so will probably bite the bullet & get a new one.

My euro/Jdm lights finally arrived after nearly 3weeks :woohoo:

Yeah there is a fair bit to do, we need to swap the engine & drivetrain out with the one in my 240

It does seem that everyone is jumping on the 240z wagon, must be my fan club

Perhaps it's the return fuel being pushed back into the bucket thats upsetting it then. Well perhaps the said fuel smell is the exhaust fumes re-circulating back into the car when you have your window open accompanied with the De-Cats I think the first port of call will be to check the intake pipes & ensure there isn't an air leak. If the car is running as rough as you say I doubt it's just down to the tune as the car made good power.

So whilst waiting for my mate to arrive in his broken Astra I pulled the rear Z badges off to see what it was going to take to clean them up Got the electric toothbrush out & a couple of mins later it looked like this Boom.....didn't even need paint or polish Then that was Z time over, my mate turned up in his Astra making an almighty racket. Another gearbox job for me the weekend

Cool, post the link up when you do

Welcome to the land of Z33 fuel gauges mate, thats just how they are, sometimes they tell you that you have sod all fuel & you have a good 10-20 litres, then other times it reads higher than it is & you had sod all left. Theres nothing for it to get stuck on, the syphon pipe runs the opposite side to the float. If its doing 8mpg & your not on track or doing standing burnouts theres definitely some serious overfilling. Check the intake pipes & maf connector, if no leaks then there maybe something up with the map

Ian, you say your fuel gauge has stopped working? what level was it reading when you ran out of fuel? Was it actually empty did it take 75-80 litres when you filled up. The reason I ask is that from your previous comments it sounds like theres something not right with the fuelling (tune side) Or perhaps a hose has blown off somewhere on the intake system. Have you checked the pipe connectors including the maf plug. If the car is over fuelling it may be flooding & stalling the engine with it hard to re-start & you are likely to see black smoke from the exhaust. The fuel system was checked & re-checked for leaks & held pressure for over 6hours. If there was a leak I would have found it. You also need to take into account that the trip computer will not be accurate, it works on injector cycle so now that your running injectors 2x the flow of the OEM it will be a mile out. Plus your running 50% more power than before which means when on boost it will drink a whole lot more fuel

Sounds like there is something not quite right with the map

Well theres the biggest hurdle to get over. You have to think about the weight transfer & power delivery with a FR car, balance the car & drive it out the corners, it's so much more rewarding than being dragged out by a FF

Welcome along are you a member on the Zclub? How do you know Pete? Would be nice to see your car. Do you have it UK registered yet?

For a fast road setup on a 370z I'd say keep the stock suspension, it's great all round & very compliant. Spend your money on some decent tyres (I recommend MPSS's) & get your geometry right + if you can find the right kit @ the right price you can SC a 370 for less than a third of the above stated price inc tuning & fuel system

I done a GTM 1.5kit on my 370z http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/81671-not-another-i’ve-changed-changed-my-wipersâ€-build-thread/

I cleaned everything with a de-greaser & then soaked the whole lot (fly & clutch assembly) in cellulose thinners for about 2 hours. Then sanded all the surfaces with a 600grit paper. It seems ok from the limited test I've done today. If not `i'll get a new one. I'll probably replace all the consumable parts including gearbox & engine seals in the re-build. Just want to drive the car for a while first, so hopefully this has solved it. If not it's got to be better than it was.

As always This car is so nice to work on, no rusty bolts to start with, & there is so much room

Thanks Dan aka tyre king,

Well had a couple of hours to myself this evening. After driving the car properly on the road today I discovered a couple of issues that I hadn't identified when I tested the car on a little industrial estate before I bought it. a: the front left shock is a little tired, no problem will just change out the pair of fronts, probably all 4 tbh b: the clutch is slipping a little when under full load in 4th, So had a look under the car when on the ramp & discovered that there was a little oil weeping from the bell housing, done a sniff check to discover that it was engine oil over gearbox oil. so immediately put it down to the real oil seal on the crank shaft. After a quick google search I was relieved that the seal could be changed without stripping down the engine, but nearly removing the flywheel & extracting the weak & replacing. So I went about doing that this afternoon. Got the car over the pit & within 30 mins had the gear box out Prop shaft & gear knob removed Then removed the gearbox No where near as heavy as a 350 or 370 box But completely smothered in oil Discovered that the clutch was fairly new but again covered in oil Had some fun removing the flywheel. The bolts were tighter than the crank pulley bolt so I had to improvise with a steel plate bolted to the fly & some wood to stop the engine rocking on its mounts after the impact air gun not even tickling the bolts After finally removing the flywheel I found that the rear oil seal wasn't the cause of my slipping clutch. The seal was dry but it was the sump that was leaking oil onto the the clutch assembly Backing plate So went about removing the sump There's something about a straight six Sump removed Then a quick clean Flywheel de-greased & cleaned Clutch disc cleaned & de-greased Plate cleaned & de-greased Then the flywheel re-installed Clutch cleaned & ready to go back in Clutch back in & re-aligned, take not of the sophisticated alignment control with the use of a grinder blade Then I got the gearbox back in & it was time to go for a couple of beers. Will get the car back together tomorrow & hopefully take it up the road to see if I've solved the clutch slipping issue Edit: drunk punctuation & spelling corrected