docwra

This is why I want to know the offset on my current wheels though - if they are an 8.5 ET30, then its 89mm further out. 20mm of that is the existing arch, and I reckon another 20mm can be got from a decent flare on the arch ........ EDIT - they are a +30. Good guess huh?? If my calculations (and assumption on the Rays offset) is right, then I could get away with anything up to a 10J ET0

Its all about the single figure offset Can you tell me (Ive searched this before as well) what the offset on the OE Rays wheels is then please? I know they are 18x8.5's ......... but not a lot else. And no, Im not letting on yet as you will all copy me

Nice one - I thought -3 might be possible, but thought -16 is a bit steep So around 20ish is what Im looking for then?? Excellent.

Had a search about but couldnt find a definitive answer on this one .......... Im after some new wheels and have my eye on a set atm - the fronts are 18x10J -3 and rears 18x11J -16. Nice. Q is, will they fit straight on?? The rears are pretty fat, and its them Im worried about most really, so if anyone could help Id appreciate it Additionally, has anyone had the arches on their Zed rolled or flared?? Is it possible with the flat sides?? Cheers

Camskill are doing 235/40/18's for £79.10 each

Aye, mine is a bit shaky at the moment - Im initiating drifts (on private land of course) with no more than 3.5K revs, which is scary when you think about it. Having said that, Ive got rubbish Nankangs on that dont help matters - Im trying to kill them as quckly as possible so I can get some Toyos or Falken 452's

Because 350 wheels are 2" bigger than the S14, no they might not go the other way..... Eh?? Surely if that was an issue it would the other way round - the S14 wouldnt be able to take the 18's, not the 350 not being able to take the 16's?? A stadard S14 16 would be too skinny and small for drifting IMO anyway - I use 17's on both of my drift cars, and one of them is only 200 bhp. Drifting is actually all about grip, not the lack of it We are talking about them clearing brake discs and calipers, not whether they fit in the arches..... Spacers old boy, spacers S14 wheels have a lot more clearance than S13 or Z32 ones ........... well, a few mm anyway

Im going - 3rd year in a row actually Hoping to take the Z but wondering how Im going to fit all of the essential crap in the back - meeting with up to 50 SXOC owners as well so if you want to join in let me know Were staying at Kartin Nord BTW, but I think its sold out now - tickets are going fast this year

Because 350 wheels are 2" bigger than the S14, no they might not go the other way..... Eh?? Surely if that was an issue it would the other way round - the S14 wouldnt be able to take the 18's, not the 350 not being able to take the 16's?? A stadard S14 16 would be too skinny and small for drifting IMO anyway - I use 17's on both of my drift cars, and one of them is only 200 bhp. Drifting is actually all about grip, not the lack of it

Well, 350 wheels fit the S14, so Id imagine they can do it the other way

Externally, the only modification on mine is the badge having been changed - "Fairlady" doesnt exactly conjure images of manly sports cars and stuff does it??

Good, but its not run by anyone I know of, which would suggest its not actually a drifter doing it .......... anyone can teah you to power over out of a corner, but to initiate at 80 mph without slowing down is a little different My advice would be to look at drift academy and drift school (botyh online, both supply cars), as these are run by guys who really know what they are talking about and will teach you the basics of weight shift, initiation, holding a drift and getting out of trouble when you **** it up (you will **** it up, believe me) The alternative is to go to one of the practise days at Knockhill, Santa Pod, Silverstone, Matchams etc. with your own car and use some of the guys there to show you the basics .............. ............. but bear in mind that with 3/4 years drifting under my belt I havent used the 350 in anger yet and probably wont - it kills engines, clutches, gearboxes and just about everything else on a car. And thats assuming you dont slide into something solid: Ouch. Or your engine doesnt throw a bit of a hissy. Also ouch.

Thanks, but they dont seem to list whats involved in the actual service - if a P3 is just filters and fluids then thats cool, but how does it differ from P1 and P2?? I need to know what to tell my mechanic to do in order that the car has a service as Nissan intended, so Im really looking for a list "do this, do that" style Interesting that there is so little time difference between each though - maybe they do just spend longer looking at the car??

Hi all I recently bought an Import 350 which has now done 80,000 kms (about 50K miles). Its last service was at 40K miles so its due another, but as an import Ive got no history prior to this. I imagine it should be on a P3 now, but Im fcukered if Im taking it to the local stealership (the same one that told me Nissan didnt make a 200SX when I had turned up in one, and then tried to charge me £320 for an aircon regas) so Im looking at taking it to one of my local trusted folk instead Q is, whats involved in a P1, P2, P3 service?? The last one was oil, oil filter, air filter (P1 I guess) so whats in a P2 or a P3?? None of my local garages can tell me so I thought Id ask at the font of all Zed knowlege

I think you mean hydraulic The handbrake IMO is only for relatively advanced circuit drifting, if youve got a high speed approach and need to scrub some speed off while initiating at the same time - shift lock (changing down a gear too many) will do it as well but isnt too kind on the gearbox, so the handbrake is a good option. Clutch kick or powerover will work much better for most situations, including private roundabouts Ive only tried it once on my Zed and decided the handbrake was rubbish so didnt bother anymore Handbrake turns are relatively easy to practise though - just clutch down, turn the wheel 90 odd degrees while pulling up the handy and see where the back end finishes up. Make sure the handbrake works or you will drive straight off the side of the road though. Also something thats never happened to me

You can do it off the power, but its actually more controllable using "clutch kick" - load the suspension up (i.e start going round a roundabout) and then just kick the clutch in enough so the revs rise up - its literally a stab rather than a kick. This will cause the rear wheels to lose traction, so you need to be ready with the opposite lock Its actually easier to let go of the wheel and just feed the opposite lock in by letting the wheel pass through one hand - the car will apply its own op lock automatically. Then its a case of keeping it sideways by balancing the throttle against the weight - its difficult to do this without practise on a constant throttle so blipping it is probably best to start with With a little practise, you can quickly reach the point that you can do a 2nd gear (private) roundabout consistently until you run out of fuel. Faster stuff takes bigger balls, and is more likely to end in tears when you hit a kerb and fold the wheels up under the car Not that Ive ever doen that you understand. S'funny - as you practise drifting more you find you are doing less and less - it goes from wild jazz hands type steering motions to never actually moving the wheel more than 15 degrees, then letting the car do the work. Everyone should buy a driftcar and practise IMO

This is the kind of thinking that made this country great Two B-E-A-U-T-iful cars. Im jealous.

Hands are still shaking from coming to work this morning

Ive not yet - been very busy and away in europe last week, but the car has mysteriously stopped doing it The car has done 80k kms and other than this is fine - Im wondering if its a suspension thing because I really cant see that this is a) clicking or the rear axle. I did notice it wandering a little when I drove to the airport on Weds, but it was a windy day so just put it down to that - other than that alignment seems to be fine. Just as a suggestion, is it worth getting a sticking in the tech sections regarding this rear axle thing - Ive not found much info here that says "It does this when you accelerate, but not when you brake. Check these things first, and if it is the axle you'll need to do the following" which would be handy if its aknown issue

My business partern bought a 159 when I bought the Zed - hes got kids, see Its gorgeous, far prettier inside and out than a Mondeo competitor has any right to be. But his 1.9 Denzil is underpowered and surprisingly boaty for my taste ......... Ill update this post in a year when it catches fire as well

Double post. I meant what I said above, but not that much

Hard, very hard if Im not going to work or back. Ive got Nankang tyres on it as well, and if its at all wet I leave the traction control on, apart from the odd roundabout It will still slip, but you have to be driving like a complete tool to actualy spin with the TC on In the dry TC is off, and the back is quite easy to lose ........... but Ive got a couple of drift cars and practise regularly so its not as hairy Its excellent advice though - when I got my first 200Sx I didnt give it full beans for about 18 months

Nice one - some really useful stuff there Id start by saying that this is my 10th Nissan coupe and I own another two so Im kinda used to weird noises and the like Gixxer - The clunk seems to happen totally randomly on jerky acceleration or when going over a bump BUT NOT EVERY TIME - I drove 35 miles to work this morning and it didnt do it at all, but on the way home the day before it must have done it 5/10 times (with provocation). Its seems to be bumpy left hand corners that are most likely to make it happen. Obviously this is a known problem so the Q Id ask is does it do it just once, or twice every 10 seconds, or constantly - Im still wondering if its as suspension arm that has come loose or something

Ive looked, but its a clunk - like the exhaust knocking into the bottom of the car. The car has also only just started doing it after 50K miles, and I thought the axle problem usually manifested itself after around 10K??

BUMP! Mine has started making a clunk from underneath - sounds like the rear suspension area or maybe even the diff Just check the rear TC arms and they seem to be pretty solid, the exhaust is not moving either - did space cadet find out what was causing his clunk in the end?? Anything else it could be?? The car is a 50k mile import from 03/04 with Rays on it and Ive only just noticed the clunk in the last two days