docwra

I didnt realise you guys would be there or ID have parked on the stand - I was up for the drifting on Sunday. The Blue Z when not being used as some kind of bench by schoolies looked lovely Out of interest, did anyone from here see it at all (particularly Sunday) - Im interested to know what non-drifters thought Will keep a closer eye out for the next event Ill be at and hopefully make the stand

OK, its not a standalone ECU/chip change/daughter board change then - thats what I was getting at. Any idea what parameters can be changed on a standard ECU - ignition timing, injector etc?

Mine is the same as above - if you switch it off it stays off until you switch it back on again. I dont tend to drive with it on at all anymore Annoyingly there doesnt seem to be any way of turning off the braking on the front wheels if it decides you are changing down too hard but it doesnt seem to interfere with anything else. I can live with it

Wow - those are some excellent gains. Definitely adding that to the neverending list To check, this is just a standard ECU reflash, right?

Cheers - it looks even better in the metal, and even better than that when clean.

YHPM Coops

Sorry if Im a bit late to the party, but Ive got a carbon Chargespeed diffuser, like this: going spare - we decided the carbon didnt look right with the blue the car was sprayed so sprayed the moulding on the bumper gloss black. Excuse rubbish photo but its the best Ive got - you can see the carbon just fits over the bumper moulding: Id be happy to offer it up as a basis for a mould or anything else as Im realistically not ever going to have any use for it - let me know if its of interest

I have to agree - Ive seen these posts and had no idea at all what they are referring to. Ive also got to be honest and say that as an active staff member on two other webboards, I think you are opening a whole can of worms thats just going to be grief in the long run. Weve tried everything from seller ratings to references and it still doesnt work 100% of the time. Let the buyers and sellers use common sense and sort themselves out I say

Oh aye, my car isnt standard so it may well be the car rather than the tyre. I also went from a 245 to a 265 (both on 10J wheels) so my fore and aft grip wont be as good as it used to be. Ive just not been overly impressed with what was sold to me as "up there with the F1 asymmetric asthe best tyre you can buy" - if others have had better results then its probs just me

Ive been driving RWD Nissans for about 10 years and been drifting for a while so go through tyres quicker than most, and Ive never found a mixed setup to be a problem on anything else TBH. Surely rear end grip/tyre communication/graduation of breakway with one tyre is the same as another, regardless of whats on the front? Not trying to be confrontational but Ive found they break away very quickly and without any warning in the wet - if you dont fancy driving with the VDC off then see how quickly it comes in on full bore gearchanges - with the Vrede's I felt it was quicker than anything else Ive run on the back.

Spacers for the standard wheels are an extremely good look IMO

Im a bit surprised - Ive got some on the back and dont think they are all that TBH ........ pretty good in the dry but I cant say I have been impressed in the wet. The RE050's on the front Ive got are much better and dare I say it, but the Falkens I had before I actually preferred ...........

I know its not politically correct, but do a massive burnout somewere quiet and if you have an "11" behind you you have an LSD. If you have a "1" then its an O-Pen diff. Alternatively jack the back of the car up so both wheels are in the air and spin one - if the other goes the same way its an LSD, if not its open. This is less fun than the first method.

You got me thinking there Trev - is there anything that the 350 is better than the Porsche for??

Glyn Hopkin in MK and Marshalls are the only two Ive ever heard anyone have a good word to say about - I know I can go drive a 370Z at Marshall whenever I want (and a GTR if I provide insurance but Im not that rich anymore ) Do you tell them you already have a 350Z?? Might swing things a bit

LM's not suiting a GTR? And if anyone can get Konig Afterburners with the Ti lip here for £1000, Ill buy 2 sets. Im not pissing about either

I dont have standard arches ........

How wide can you go dude? 12 ET0??

You dont like the Gram Lights! Man, I dont think I could ever part with those wheels - they look great on anything Number 3 is actually an american friend of mine, who has replaced those wheels with some that are identical (size and offset) to number 1 as it happens The more normal BBS LM looks like this (I know its not a Z33):

Errrmm.....that's four..... I know. two of them are my car too, sadly not the 380RS though I was going with the first three, but you cant leave the LM out - it really is the best wheel on anything IMO.

Im sure everything has been done after 14 pages, but my 3 favourites (on pretty much any car) Work Equip Gram Light 57f Pro Work Meister BBS LM (these are LM-R's). The greatest wheel ever made IMO.

I will assume you've never driven a renault sport clio then! Nope But shouldn't a RWD 2 seater sports car handle better than a retrofit hatchback!?? OUTRAGE Anywhere other than a racetrack of sweeping A road a sorted FWD hatchback with a decent driver will beat pretty much anything RWD. Docwra, owner of 1 350Z, 2 200SX's and 2 306 GTi6's

I know Im rather outspoken when it comes to wheels on here, but I do know my dish (and its actually called lip;)). Finding proper deep dish wheels with decent offsets in 19's is incredibly difficult - Ive been looking for about 3 months and havent found a single set IMHO, you need to pay decent money to get a decent looking wheel when you are looking at dish - these below cost me £1600 (please excuse rubbish pic but you get the idea): and these were £1300: You also need to get the fitment spot on as arch gaps/weak offsets will show up a lot more. I'd personally say those 2 posts down are too weak - Id be looking at 9 ET5 and 10 ET0, personally.

Nope - JP is in Vancouver at the moment but can still get stuff sorted - send him a message and Im sure he will come back to you mate

Its the tread of the tyre that cant be showing, not the tyre itself. If done correctly I think its a good look, but you need big wheels and small archgaps to start with