docwra

I think you are still missing the point dude ....... if you only have £300 over the top of your budget spare, what are you going to do when you need a new set of tyres @ £1000 for all four? Or a clutch replacement @ £1500? Or *touches wood* both at the same time? No-one is saying dont buy it, but some of us know the pain of buying your dream car and having to stare at it sitting on the driveway motionless because you can afford to fix it/run it. You then end up selling it and losing money while barely having enjoyed the thing.

So if my indicator bulb has blown at the point of impact, Im not covered for insurance either? What about if I was speeding before the incident, I believe thats criminal law but I would still get a payout ......... The MoT can effectively become invalid the moment you drive off the forecourt but you can still hold a valid MoT, I dont see how it affects any kind of insurance claim. The only way they would avoid paying out is by claiming you had non standard parts on the car, the same as if you had undeclared HFC's that you left in for the MoT anyway. Two seperate issues here - any modification *can* invalidate and insurance policy and any post 1993 car (with a few exceptions, S13 200SX being one of them) generally needs a cat to pass an MoT emissions check - the actual presence of a cat is not a requirement though.

To take TCS off unplug the ABS unit, I guess its probably inside the wing on a 370Z too.

Gotta be honest, if your budget is that tight and you have to insure it as well, Id be praying nothing goes wrong. Ive been lucky, only had a headlight and the AFM fail ........... still a grand to fix them

Space the wheels, lower the car 25mm. Or sell the wheels, buy something more aggressive looking. You could go for new bumpers and skirts but thats £££

Does this work on headlights too? Had mine resealed but they are starting to mist up again

Any time I had for cyclists disappeared when I moved to Cambridge. I get hit by a bike on average once a year in the car and once a year on foot.

Fair play to you, the Lexus and the Jag are a bit more "old man" in image and looks, but arguably a better drive for me. I didnt try a C63 when I was looking for the same reason, they seem to be rarer and hold their price better. Beautiful car though mate, Im sure you wont be disappointed. One of my good mates has just picked up his 11th point on his license in 6 months since buying his .......

Possibly the shape? All above mentioned are 4 door over a 2 door coupe Very nice car. Do people really get hung up on stuff like that? They are all 400hp+ executive stormers, they are the obvious competition for the M3 (E90 and E92) IMO.

Lovely cars Out of interest, did you consider the IS-F, C63 AMG or XF-R and if so, why didnt you go with one of them?

Daaaaaaaamn, thats pretty unlucky man

"Ive not had her flat out so dont know whats she'll do, but shes still pulling at 460 mate"

Thats a beauty. Mine is nowhere near that but fortunately a lot better than last year where I really was being chased away from schools by parents .........

Tyres are 255/35/18 front and 285/30/19 rear I think, RE050's all round Moar pics below, not many on here seem to like it but its looks great in the metal http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s161/docwra/350Z/ - bear in mind there are the three stages there, standard spec, nice rims spec and then "ZOMG what have you done" spec

18x10 ET -43 front, 19x11.5 ET -15 rear. TBF it only looks like that because the wheels wouldnt clear the brakes, but its certainly different Its unusual to have an 8/9J with a high negative offset but it does happen, I know a lot of AE86 Corollas running negative double figure offsets on 7/8J's. 8 -43 is including the spacer as well remember, the wheel is 8 -18

Like I said, its going to need work, I know that from trying to test fit my 10J's - they looked almost perfect with a bit of a flare. The more I think about it thought the more I think brake clearance is going to be the major issue, it was with mine Whether its possible or not I wouldnt like to say, Id personally be looking elsewhere TBH, get something that fits better in the first place. Like these: He is asking £1450, TBH Id still hold out for 19's but if you want crazy ass VIP rims these are probably your best bet atm.

Good question. Ive got 10J ET -40ish on the front of mine, only just clears Brembo's but needs large arch extensions. 10J ET -18 is what the wheel itself is and we thought we could fit it with a little arch work, but it wasnt anywhere near clearing a Brembo. My calculator tells me you would have 26mm more inner clearance, so it would very tight on the brakes, and 24mm less on the outside so its going to be tight again ........ my advice would be a trial fit, its too close to guess IMO.

I know of an amazing set of TE37 with widths and offsets that would be great on a Z ........ unfortunately they are 17's and you need 19's really, maybe an 18 for a track wheel.

Yep, I only drive mine every so often, many times Ive got in, thought "Cracking, 13 volts" then cranked it and had rather less than 13 volts showing For a car not to turn over at all its got to be seized or its starter related in my experience

So when you are watching people catching fish, do you stand up and scream "MURDERERS!" at the screen? As others have said, its not just a free for all killing session, its part of their history and culture and a big part of their income. They arent Dolphins either, they are pilot whales. Cows are farmed to be killed, and even then the killing bit is not exactly pretty .......... if this was anything that didnt have a cute face then I dont think there would be half as many people up in arms over it. These arent an endangered species AFAIK, its not far removed from a gamekeeper shooting rabbits or deer to keep numbers down, except in this case peoples livelihoods depend on it. The IWC allow it, if it was *that* bad then surely they wouldnt? Who knows, the people of the Faroes are probably disgusted by the njumber of rabbits, badger, foxes, hedgehogs and cats that we run over every year ..........

Id do what he suggests, but the not turning over is interesting ......... are you sure the battery is "OK"? The whirring noise can be indicative of the battery not having enough crank to turn the starter, these cars need a fair old push as well. Is there any clicking? Could be that your alternator or its fuse isnt working properly, Ive had mine where all lights, radio etc work fine but it just wont start.

Was actually going to weight in with this - I had a spigot ring that had become unseated or something, and kinda welded itself to the wheel. When I put the wheel onto something else there was a noticable wobble to it, checked and the ring had actually slipped onto the mounting face. New spigot rings might be worth considering ........

Fair play man, Im no engineering student Surely though, by the same logic if you are making you tyres wider you are increasing the tyre scrub over whats optimum? Any negative effect is countered by more grip anyway? EDIT: Aaaah, Ive got it, what you are saying is that the positions of the edges of the tyre relative to the mounting face of the wheel should stay the same as OE, got it. Wider wheels arent a problem as long as the extra weight/tyre is in the right place. I actually found when I ran my Zed with the standard wheels on the front with 20mm spacers the car was less surefooted, weirdly Ive not had the problem with my current wheels spaced 25mm, this might be why. Interestingly Ive not had the same issue on 200SX's or Skylines with spaced/different width front wheels though.

Umm, spacers dont affect steering and offsets dont affect handling. Where have you got this from, Ive not heard it anywhere else, including racecar setups ....... If you really want to get down to the technicalities Id be looking at rollcentres and akkerman angle before whatever you are talking about (Im struggling to see any logic behind what you are saying actually) Im running effective 10J ET -42 on the front of my car and IMO it handles better than it did as standard. The steering arms, suspension struts, brakes and everything else is in the same place as if I was running 7J ET50. If you are claiming that the relative weight on each side of the mounting face makes some kind of difference, I can tell you it doesnt. If the car was that sensitive you would feel something shift when you put the brakes on, no? The fact that you seem to think you need longer wheel studs for wider wheels isnt helping TBH.

Look back at the OP's one, then my one. At least you know what yours is supposed to be ..........