docwra

J is to do with the bead of the rim, handily Ive just found this: JJ = 18.0mm high x 13.0mm wide, with a 13.0mm radius J = 17.5mm high x 13.0mm wide, with a 9.0mm radius Id say 12J ET20 at standard ride height is the widest you could fit and have been told this works too, drop Rarerims a line and see what they say though as they have sold quite a few wheels in this size recently 10.5 ET22 will fit easily, I used to run 10 ET15 with no issues at all. Oh, BTW, despite all of whats been posted aove you still got your offsets wrong - ET12 will have 10mm less inner clearance than ET22

Just to be different, Id buy HSD coilovers, decats, throttle controller, plenum spacer and uprev, you might *just* get all that for £1500. The brakes are pretty good as standard, obviously if yours need replacing thats a given but Id be looking elsewhere to start with

As stated above, depends on the design of the wheels. As well as the fact that an 8J ET0 is 5 inches narrower than a 13J ET0. The "poke" from the mounting face is what you are interested in, not the offset as that is relative to wheel width. Lexx has done a damn good job on this thread, but the underlying point is that if you are going for the very best/closest fitment of wheels there is no way to know 100% if something will fit without trying it. Different spoke designs, backspacing, tyre choice, tyre size, camber, ride height and suspension specs all affect wheel fitment and thats before you start getting onto arch modifications. One thing I will say is that £150/200 odd will get someone who knows what he is doing to come and roll your arches for you so if you do buy something and it rubs a little its easy to sort out. If you are serious about getting wheels that fit as nicely as possible, for me its a given to get the arches rolled anyway.

I quite like it actually, best off the shelf widebody kit available. Not cheap though.

Have you converted your house into a MacDonal's drive thru? A rear wing for yourself sir? We have a variety of styles ......... If only I had a bigger driveway Id be well away

Ive got a 170hp 306 and a 130hp MR2, admittedly they are lighter but they are still great fun to drive and quick with it. What you notice with "lesser" cars after the Zed isnt the outright speed, its that they dont feel as rewarding - even faster, more powerful, more expensive cars in some cases.

Dis-agree with this but I may be biased as I have a hub based dyno , if you don't use the conversion figure to estimate flywheel bhp it is a very good tool. Just look at the wheel/hub figures and you wont be far wrong. Totally agree, surely its better to measure the driven output than just what the engine can do? Either way, still want to see graphs, top end figures mean nothing outside of the pub

OK, its a rubbish picture but that was just shy of 1000hp, all taxed, insured and Mot'd. In typical Nissan style Im not sure Ive had all three working at the same time since

Have you got before and after graphs? Its not the top number that matters, its whats under the graphs - the more youve got, the quicker the car is. Would be nice to have a Z32 style +100hp available for £300 odd mind you.

They are fast until you drive a 400hp car. TBH, I still find mine quick enough to scare myself in, but whatever I have next will be 400+. Even a GTR doesnt feel as fast once youve driven something with over 600hp, its all relative.

This is quite a good thread: http://www.driftworks.com/forum/other-c ... story.html The vid on the last page is comedy.

Throttle response etc. are exactly the same but you should be able to drive quicker, similar principle as you can stop quicker without ABS but to a greater extent. I personally find VDC gets in the way of very spirited driving, I wouldnt advise turning it off unless you are comfortable with the car though

Ahhh, bigwheel drifting - we were doing it on the Devils Elbow at Mallory last year Excellent fun, unfortunately not so great in Cambridgeshire

I tend to work up to it, starting soft and early, then braking later and harder, then eventually standing on the pedal as late as possible. You need to get your lines sorted before concentrating on braking IMO.

Ive got one that looks like that too and for me it handles nearly as well as it did on standard Rays, its certainly not undriveable

You are assuming you dont have 16mm of clearance already there though, you probably do. No man can 100% categorically say what will fit and what wont, I can give you advice based on personal experience but things like tyre wall profile, suspension camber, degree of loweredness (new word, woo!) can all make a difference. Examples though: 18x12 ET0 with 275/35 tyre, running 3.25 degs camber: 18x11 ET 0 with 245/40 tyre, standard camber: 18x10 ET -13 with a 275/35, standard camber and arches almost certainly only rolled: Back on the first page youve got mine as well, 10J ET15 with 255/35 tyre IIRC, standard camber, no archwork at all.

Look on the back of the wheels, its usually on a sitcker there. From looking Id say you are probably in the region of 9J ET15 front, 10 ET20 on the rear which would suggest no more than 10/15mm spacing really or with those tyre sizes you will have to start rolling arches etc.

Look elsewhere TBH, early Freelanders are not nice. Get a Fourtrak or something that will do mroe than 20 miles without having to be looked at

Do you still need an engine, I know of one for cheaps like innit. Bargainous car though, sterling work

Good info, but perhaps a link to an offset calculator might be a good shout?

It has a Procharged LS2 in it as well, running a tickle over 650HP and a bit more torque. Ive driven it, I imagine riding a sidewinder missile like a horse is probably slightly less exilhirating and scary experience.

You could even keep the "normal" tank but fill it with 120 octane race fuel for when the LPG wasnt enough

Why? LPG has a higher octane rating, which means you can instantly run higher boost, thats a good thing isnt it?

I thought Dave Pearce had copyright on all "Dance Anthems", same as its not the weekend until Tongy says so.