docwra

I hate to say it, but you cant blame the tyre ........ Ive drifted on much worse than that and still kept on the grey stuff. Ive sent you a PM to cheer you up mate

Bedford were cool with cameras last time I was up there, a few weeks ago I dont reckon thats too bad taking another look at it, if you can save even one light then it might not be too painful .......

Good work, even after reading your explanation I still cant figure out how you did it Main thing is you are OK. I found after I smashed my one that aftermarket wings and bumpers were cheaper than even breaker items, the lights are a killer though. Ill see if I can tap up a couple of drifters for a bumper bar and stuff, washer reservoirs can be difficult to get hold of too but Ive got a spare here you can have for nothing Put Zmanalex's number in your phone, you are going to need it

Depends on year. M3/5/6 can all be had for that, as can some Merc AMG's Having been in "bored" mode myself recently, even though I have absolutely no time to drive any weekend car, there are a lot of cars out there that have depreciated a LOT and represent bargains at the moment. 650i was one I had pointed out to me, and they can be had for as little as £12k now, 6 years old with 60k on them. I love the 650i, they look the business Unfortunately if your first name isnt "Sheikh" then running one can be an issue The x35i engine is a beauty and Im really tempted by a 135 myself, but everyone I kno who has had a 123d for any amount of time REALLY rates them. This is probably why they hold their mony so well, like 535d's do

Nothing to watch out for really other than solid objects, the instructors are all pro level drifters from BDC, EDC and Drift Allstars and will tell you everything you need to know, and as Ive said many times before on here the Z33 is a realy easy car to drift. If you want to perfect the "drifter look" though Id advise washing your hands in sump oil for a week or soand having your most mismatched, dirtiest clothes run over by a tractor a few times, dont wash you hair (or anything else) for a few days beforehand, steal some trainers from a homeless, rub more oil on your face before going out int he morning and chainsmoke rollups, only stopping to have another slurp on a branded energy drink

Im on the case

Great minds eh??

I place aircraft engineers out there and I have to say, that money doesnt sound too amazing to me for the area. Theres a lot of competition in Real Estate out there too, I can probably get you a contact who is already doing it if you are interested?

Whod have thought, two in one day viewtopic.php?f=36&t=62265 Its good fun, keep your foot in and dont try to stop the steering wheel doing what it wants to and youll be fine

Hah! I had your instructor come to visit me yesterday afternoon as it happens Its a good day, youll have a great time. If big George is the instructor ask him about his "peoples champion" status

Weirdly I had a load of these on one of the wheels of my Zed - havent moved it yet as Id kill them all

- 4 x Tyres - no arguing with that one really, you dont have to use OE fitment though - New Rocker Gasket due to oil leak - buttons, easy to fit - New JDM Battery - get a UK battery, last one I got cost me £40 IIRC - Undertray hanging and needs reviewing - rip the bastard off - New front brake pads/discs - fitting these is fairly easy yourself, pads are REALLY simple - New Rear brake pads, and rear caliper binding - again, 2 minutes to do pads - Tracking off - are they laser aligning it? If not, this is £20 tops - Two side lights replacements needed - cost of bulbs - Main light not working - cost of bulb - Spare wheel holder snapped and glued back, needs reviewing - if its glued then its not moving ........... right? - Spring within Clutch Assembly needs replacing (due to heavy heavy clutch) - doubt its just the spring myself MOPping you can do yourself, or get a valeter/detailer to do it. I personally wouldnt let Nissan near my paint

Im amazed that in three pages no-one has suggested the most obvious way to improve acceleration Fit a shorter 1.5/2/3 way (welded diff) and youd be amazed. I reckon a 313 350Z with a short diff, drag tyres, some weight removed and uprev, breathing mods etc. should just about crack 13 seconds for a quarter mile. Getting a flat 12 would need forced induction though, I dont think you would manage that otherwise. 0-60 times are total bullshit frankly, Im surprised that apparent car enthusiasts use it as a yardstick. Theres at least 35% variation depending on the launch anyway, 0-100 or standing Q are a much better indicator of acceleration IMO.

What? My battery goes flat every other week, Ive never had to reset it

Had similar with other cars, youve blown one of the dashboard fuses Id say, probably the ABS one as well. However, someone was telling me the other day 350's dont use fuses as such and as Ive never had an issue I cant tell you how to fix it

Bath is really nice, Rome is my favourite city in Europe but Amsterdam is defintiely up there too

Oooh, let me know when you sell the head unit (if its got iPod connectivity anyway)

Yep, its a hydraulic issue with one of the cylinders rather than the clutch itself. You might get lucky and find its just low on fluid, a top up might fix it, but then you have to ask yourself where the fluid actually went

Never seen more than 165 out of mine, must have been a very long hill. Like this perhaps:

I still wouldnt, myself. "Aerospace grade" doesnt mean anything, if you do choose to go with them then tighten them up with a torque wrench. If they dont have a suggested torque setting then run away.

Missed a zero It still doesnt get much use though

Thats exactly what Im talking about kiingsi, I actually know people who have had D1 nuts fail, I ouldnt use them on my pushbike

Not noticed any issues with mine but the car doesnt do a lot of miles, maybe 400 a year if its lucky so Im probably not your best guinea pig

Not digging at you dude, but thats like saying "This tiger must be fine with children, as it hasnt eaten any yet" - you only know about a problem after its happened. The quality of my KICs is good, but Ive started seeing a little bit of rust forming inside the lugnut, not what you expect for £200+

Turbo engines with aftermarket ECUs and/or boost controllers are 1000x more like to detonate than a non-turbo running conservative factory maps. Actually, turbo engines with aftermarket ECU's generally dont have a problem as said ECU has been mapped for that specific engine and level of boost, its more likely to be a change in spec on a car running standard ECIU and standard ignition. You obviously have far more experience than me here, as Ive found its too little fuel that causes knocking, and that one instance lasting 2 seconds is more than enough to cause damage to the pistons or big ends. Too much fuel can only really cause damage through hydraulic lock but you know that, right?