docwra

Personally think they should all be lowered and have wheels that fit properly, much prefer mine to look at and to drive since I sorted it

16's that are wide enough will probably cost more than 17's, youll have more stress finding tyres too. http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php? ... 50z+wheels thats what you want, youll struggle to get 4 rims for less than £150

Worth less, sure. Worth half as a much .......... dont think so. WBAC is not a good gauge of vehicle value, lets be honest

Not advised. Internals are a much better bet all round though IMO, less likely to round off and even if they split you can usually still get them off RT is bang on the money

ok, but how much km run with this power? and in track or street? i use my car on the street and all saturday in drift for 30 minutes... i run 20.000 km for years... now my car have 95000 km Could 20 kms, could be 2,000,000 kms, no-one can tell you that. We arent talking race engines here, like I keep saying you cant put a number on anything as there are too many variables involved. If its built properly, cooled properly, serviced properly and not abused then any of the options above would last for 50,000kms, if not 100,000, but it only takes a broken fan or a sticking injector and the whole lot can be scrap.

Im like Ekona but caught one of these the other day. If you follow the #hashtag you find out what its all about, GoCompare have asked people to tell them what they want to see in the ads. Weirdly enough most involve the GoCompare man dying a horrible death

If you want over 400hp (not 400hp more than standard) and for it to be reliable and long lived an LS engine is probably the best answer. If you want 700hp it definitely is. As I said there is no single answer to your question. Any number of things can break an engine, regardless of how many turbos or superchargers it has - a standard 350Z with lower octane fuel in it can have problems, never mind one running 200% standard power.

I suppose a twin turbo with the same power output with a single turbo will have more resistance, but the engine will have the same duration ... but to have a stable engine that is not likely to break up on what powers you can get in torque and horsepower? 350cv? 400? I suppose a twin turbo with the same power output with a single turbo will have more resistance, but the engine will have the same duration ... but to have a stable engine that is not likely to break up on what powers you can get in torque and horsepower? 350cv? 400? with only one compressor stillen get there? or do you also change injectors and fuel pump? the stock clutch can handle? These are all variables depending on the parts you have used, fuel you are running, mapping, atmospheric conditions. If you are just chasing 400+hp then get a V8 conversion, it will be more reiable and probably cheaper in the long run.

Mine if anything feels better on track, but if you go too far the detrimental effect multiplies quickly.

You know, I might try some rather than the RE050A's next time round, my rears are wearing suspiciously quickly.

Im even lower on coilovers without camber adjustment. Not suffering from any uneven wear issues, I guess thats about 1.5 degs on the back BTW, second pic was a parade lap so no major corner forces

Which one of you is paying the most tax on fuel though? What about the 20% VAT thats slapped on that too? How about the 4 tyres a year she uses with another 20% VAT on top? Or the extra 2 services every year ........ etc. Road tax, even at £500 a year, is less than a tenner a week, think of it as a very reasonable parking charge

Dyce was the onyl place I could ever find anything when I had guys working at ABZ airport.

Tour bag, stand bag, two trolleys and associated shoes and waterproofs, easy Going to be a good one this year, I think the Europeans will take the lead early but choke like **** on the last day, leaving the yanks winnign by 1/2 pt. We must have the best ranked European Ryder Cup team of all time though, surely?

KU31's are discontinued now, the replacement is the KU39 and Ive read good things from the M3 boys about them

Ahh, saw this too late - Garage D were organising the "extra" cars, you might have been in with a shout if you got in touch Some of my jock mates tried and failed to crash shooting up there, think they are keeping things pretty tight

Awesome, Im considering doing this myself having seen one in action. Have you got a thread showing what you did and what you got??

Import cars should have Kaizen (youll know about this if youve got a GTR) so as long as that was there when it was boated over you dont need to worry so much about the jap history Ive not tried the tip box myself, but seeing as I only just get on with a GTR I dont expect to like it, any reason you not looking at a manual?

A "must have" £3K option? Thats what Id do anyway

Chaps, a Rolling Road isnt the same as the brake tester on the MoT. The former is not a problem at all, the latter can have issues with LSD's (and is hilarious with a locked diff) though but MoT testers know this. The fact that M3owners havent reported there is an issue would suggest this is a one off.

The other solution is aftermarket traction control, Racelogic is your market leader there. Or you could learn to drift, or Id happily lend you my N/A in exchange if you want? The back going down/front going up if it really is the case* might be down to incorrectly adjusted suspension I suppose, next step Id be looking at corner weighting it and then running some rear toe in - what suspension are you running BTW? Less tyre pressure generally means more grip too, take them down to 30. * Never heard of anything like that before unless your shocks are on back to front or something

Thanks mark, I did wonder if I was going mad, its definitely the spacers had them off and all back to pretty much how it was, I'm going to get an alignment done, but if that doesn't solve it would a wider front wheel (to fill out the arches) with an offset to keep the suspension centred be the solution? I found that going from a Rays wheel with spacers to a 9J ET20 on the front solved the problem, I now run a 10J ET -17 with a 25mm spacer and it actually feels better than standard. There was a motorsport engineering student on here a while ago going on about Kingpin inclination and how he wanted to keep the centreline of the wheel in the same place ......... but I cant find the thread and have never experienced the same issue on anything else. Anyway, enough of answering the question, back to the important business of jam and mountain goats .........

I saw one the other day near Oxford in all its dodgy painted glory, TBH I thought it was an XKR ........... it will be interesting to see how different the end product looks

Or if you've been using Android since 2008 Im nicking that pic as well

18x10 front, 19x12 rears with MPS tyres. Pretty easy really. As for letting air out of the tyres for "medical reasons" and increasing pressure for more grip (an increase will reduce grip), you are quite mad.