docwra

I know, there used to be a clip kicking about of proper GT3 cars vs LMP vs F1, that was a real eye opener but seems to be gone now Definitely prefer closed wheel racing to open wheel though, more margin for error

First time for everything I guess, back to disagreeing elsewhere Im sure

So all you haters dislike the BMW M cars? Mustang, EsCos, RS500, Granada Coupe, MkI/MkII Escort RS's, Lotus Cortina, Capri 3.0S .......... theres loads!

As Dan has said, the RE040 and RE050A are poles apart, Ive had both in the same sizes on the came car. RE050's are pretty much as good as tyres get, Ill say it again. We'll agree to disagree on that one then. We all have different driving styles and preference in tyres. Have driven on both a number of times on 350 and 370 and most of us over here don't like them, including my co-pilot that's an ex-international professional rally co-pilot. Anyway, back to Hamlet's thread. Sorry, youre telling me that RE050A's are the same as RE040's? And you're telling me that Falkens and Toyos are better than both? Mate, thats not opinion, thats rubbish.

Some interesting replies here, Im quite into F1 as I supply guys to build the cars (along wth DTM, LMP and various other stuff), the technical aspect of it is astonishing (quote from a visit to Red Bull the other day "Not even NASA know about this yet") There may not be as many overtakes as in some other series but you cant knock the outright speed, and saying theres no skill when youre getting 10 cars covered by less than a second over a 2 minute qualifying lap ......... hmmm. Im sure everyone has seen the comparison but just in case: As for Le Mans and GT Racing being more exciting .......... I take it you didnt watch the last F1GP then? Endurance racing doesnt exactly breed overtaking manouevres and having been to LM for the last 8 years, while its a spectacle youve lost track after about 3 laps anyway Best racing for me is classic touring cars, 50's, 60's and 70's - not only are the cars cool but the different performance and dynamics means you cant take your eyes off it, whilst the tech is amazing the latest tyres and aero are nowhere near as exciting as watching a MkII Jag on skinny tyres get overtaken by an Austin A35 going sideways. Oh, and to asnwer the original question - the best racing driver is the one that gets round the track quicker than the others

Jesus guys, the Boxster, Micra and Ka are cracking motors, you're harsh bastards The Vauxhall Insignia - who looked at one and said "I really like the look of that" Poverty spec Audi A5's - not made to be run on 16 inch wheels Anything by Ssangyong - obvious reasons

Can I just intervene slightly here - Ekonas views on mixing tyres are all good and Im not discrediting what he has said but it seems to have lead to an element of paranoia on here - Ridz, if you are running RE050A's and ZZ3's your tyres are already better than what you are looking at replacing them with. The driver aids function as follows: Traction control - cuts power to rears - happens when it detects slip ONLY on rear wheels (probably one rotating faster than the other) - this is the TC light that comes on Stability control - fires brakes on front wheels - happens when the car detects a difference in rotational speed between front and rear wheels - this is the SLIP light that coems on In both cases assuming you have correctly sized tyres its only loss of traction across the rear axle or relative wheel speed fore and aft that invokes the aids, neither of these are affected by mixing tyres. Theres no "computer" to recalibrate, but the grippier the tyres the less you will see the lights come on. If youre finding the front brakes are firing unless you are driving like Hamilton its more than likely due to an unexpected difference in rolling radius between front and back i.e. running the wrong sized tyres.

I know its different but Ive got a forged SR20 with management for sale atm, basically a drop in 400hp package and Im asking £2600, for yours I reckon £5K is top end, although if youre throwing in the clutch thats a fair chunk of cash itself. My view would be to try and sell the engine and turbo kit as a whole, do the gauges, gearbox, clutch, Defi's, decats, exhaust, fuel pump and possibly the management separately, theres no way youre going to see anything like the value if you bundle it all together. If you then find the engine doesnt sell, split the turbo kit off and if worst come to worst then you can probably see nearly a grand back for the engine components alone. Things in bits always get more money than things all together

As Dan has said, the RE040 and RE050A are poles apart, Ive had both in the same sizes on the came car. RE050's are pretty much as good as tyres get, Ill say it again.

Its the traction control kicking in, nothing to worry about at all. RE050's are pretty much as good as tyres get so I doubt replacing them will make much difference, you might need to modulate your right foot when its a bit slippy out instead

Mine went years ago, not had any problems since

Erm guys, you know you can see when a user was last on here just by clicking their name? That would be my first port of call. On SXOC (11 years old and counting) weve seen millions of these, as Ekona says its pretty easy to avoid being scammed: Best way: get someone local to go round and pay cash for item, or pick it up in person. If above not possible: Get a name, address, home telephone number and actually call it to check its pukka, a mobile is worth having too. Use Paypal (not gift) for payment. If item is not forthcoming then try all methods of contact, if that still doesnt work do the Paypal thing. In dealing with the best part of 100 of these over the years, Ive never had one where the buyer has had a home telephone number Oh, and post count/years on forum are not an indicator of trustworthiness, Ive banned at least 5 people with 5K+ postcounts and years of history before. Be smart, dont get stitched.

Ahhh, but England already has trade agreements, contra agreements, historical economics and credit limits/arrangements set up, a much larger GDP and even membership to the UN, NATO, EU and Commonwealth in place ........... NewScotland would be negotiating all of these from a considerably weaker position. Thats kinda my point, its not just cutting off 10% of the UK, its setting up a whole new system

Thats an interesting point, if the UK as a whole is in debt and we work on Scotland being roughly 10% of the UK, Braveheartland (its bound to be called that) will inherit a £366Bn deficit by becoming independent. As the Scottish GDP is only £144Bn, theyre going to have to go at least 2 years without spending anything to get back out of debt, almost like a Student loan I guess.

Yep, looked at the figures and broadly speaking tax income and expenditure are similar all over the UK. However, the bit I think thats being missed is the cost of implementation of all of the services that are taken for granted at the moment, with no existing cash - I wouldnt fancy setting up my own tax offices, inspectors, reporting systems and then enforcement and thats just a tiny part of whats going to be needed. To go it alone when things are on the up is questionable, but to go it alone in the middle of a global recession is economic suicide IMO .......... and there isnt going to be any safety net this time.

:lol: No not yet. Im going to the Range Rover garage in Knutsford today on my lunch for a mooch about. Im getting more and more tempted to buy another P38 down the road from me ........... despite the fact its absolutely identical to mine other than having LPG. Why am I considering doing this to myself??

This is the worrying bit, as far as I can see yer man Salmond hasnt actually laid down any information on what he will do for GDP's, finance, law, defence, justice, welfare or health, he just seems to be appealing to the Nationalistic spirit (which the Scots should be very proud of BTW), AFAIK without oil your two biggest exports are mineral water and whisky, not really a basis for a global player's economy ........

Have you driven one yet? If you want one now, just wait .........

Good luck, I know of two with working engines going for under £4.5K atm though .........

ill update with pics of it sideways soon

Strong advice - do not do this. You will spend hours getting it done (dry ice actually works better than a hairdryer BTW) and finish up with an overly noisy car thats generally a horrible place to be, all for saving 15/20KG. Im all for removing back seats, spare wheels and other non essential stuff but removing sound deadening, stereos and even interior panels IMO is only worth doing on a competition car, particularly if you are going to be driving to and from tracks

Laying frame is the term, nothing cooler than driving along leaving a trail of sparks from your subframe A guy I know has just put this together, been a while since Ive seen anything lower:

I reckon Ill be down on Sunday too, some serious cars and drivers this year. :nod:

Dammit, I actually watched on of these thanks to this thread and I hate myself now.

From what I can gather the stability on the front wheels uses the ABS to brake them when it detects a certain speed difference between wheels front and back, the three plugs are the part of the ABS control so stop it happening.