Adam@Z1auto.com

The Altered Atmosphere spacer that we sell retains the strut brace as well

I've had this in my own car now for about 4 years Speedometer is unaffected - the speedo is not indexed off the ring and pinion, it's done off the abs sensors, which contain wheel speed sensors gas mileage wise, my car gets the same 320 miles to tank as it always did. Even with my built engine, I still get the same miles to tank, within 5-10 miles. I've taken the car on very long trips (longest was 14 hours) - gas mileage was the same as it was when I first got the car in 2003. As far as extra parts, we have the details listed on our site: http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=1726 ring and pinions do not add any HP, real or imagined. They are torque multipliers. A more cost effective solution IMHO is the 4.08 - slightly higher, and particularly well suited to the 2005 + revup engines and the 2007 + HR's, but works well on the DE's as well. More cost effective though: http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=2833 the top speed is reduced per gear by the % difference per gear vs stock. So, a 3.9 for example is ~11% shorter than the stock 3.54, thus top speed per gear is reduced ~10%, but acceleration is improved ~11% per gear. It's not quite a linear relationship, but it's very, very close. It makes a very immediate and noticeable difference. Particularly if you've increased the rev limiter. On my own car, the 3.9 has been fantastic, but I'm going for an even higher ratio now, to better suit my NA engine (4.3) Install wise...with the right tools, about a 5-6 hour job from start to finish. It's not a DIY unless you have some very specialist Nissan tools

Ian - what slam panel do you have? fitment looks great

sounds exactly the same - Id have to look on my car to see where exactly the little metal connectors for the coolant go from. it's either on the bottom of the body or the bottom of the plenum at the outlet to the throttle body

There are 2 coolant hoses that do in fact route antifreeze around the throttle body. The purpose is so that during sub freezing temperatures, the throttle blade does not stick. They are at the bottom part of the throttle body assembly (quite small diameter hoses too...so it's not the massive rush of antifreeze the blurb would lead you to believe. You can bypass the lines if you want, but it will do absolutely zero for performance Whomever wrote that little blurb has obviously decided to regurgitate something they heard, vs taking their time to actually datalog the car themselves. Such is the problem with many posts out there. No content, just conjecture. The throttle body is never at ambient temperature....ever (well, perhaps with the car stone cold and the engine not running it is at ambient lolol). In addition, everything in the engine is aluminum. Aluminum absorbs heat at a rapid pace. Drive your car for even a few minutes and then touch the lower plenum - it will create a blister, that is how hot it gets. So, short of ceramic coating everything in the engine bay to insulate it, you're not going to improve things by more than a small fraction. Even if you were to go that far, the air is moving, it's not sitting still in the intake. As such, if you were to take the differential temperature of the air reaching the plenum vs the temperature of the air being passed through the mass air sensor (where the air inlet temp sensor is found), the difference is not at all substantial. I know this because I spent a substantial amount of time with a rather sophisticated multichannel datalogger when working on the design of my ITB setup, taking the measurements of air temperature at a variety of places, simultaneously

the question of will it/won't it rub will not be the same for everyone here is why 1. the Z comes from the factory with a range of alignements. Not all cars have the same camber/toe specs. Where the car starts off spec wise, determines where it ends up once it's lowered. The rubbing issue is in the rear, not the front by the way 2. Not all tires of a given size have the same physical dimensions. A 275/40 T1R is not the same as a 275/40 Potenza RE050 or S03. The differences can be substantial. Example. In the Work thread I posted. My car was at that exact height, with those exact wheels. With Toyo's (at the time T1S), I never once rubbed. Toyo's wore out finally so installed the S03's - the car rubbed over every single bump, no matter how small. The S03 were the same size as the Toyo, but the S03 were substantially bigger. No amount of camber I tried prevented the rubbing. So, I rolled the fenders and never had to think about it again The only way to guarantee no rubbing is to either fit a wheel so conversative that there is no chance of it ever rubbing (ie a 9.5 with a +30 offset for example with a reasonbly sized tire) no matter what the height/alignment. Or, to simply fit the wheel, hope for the best, and if it rubs. have the fenders rolled. Thankfully rolling the fenders is neither difficult nor particularly costsly, so it's quite easy to solve the potential issue

happy birthday

we offer a huge range NISMO (genuine), Blitz, INGS, JP Aero, Veilside, to name a few

tne end pieces on those rust unfortunately (I know, I had them)

let us know your address and we'll reply with the door to door price

lets get a list going (a single list please!) of how many people are ready to go, and I'll work out the details Also let me know the address it would be shipping to

if we send a bunch to one address, would work out loads cheaper for you all ours includes all brand new mounting brackets and hardware, straight from Nissan as well group buy? we also have them available for those with lightweight hatches too!

thats the only reason I'm looking @ a 2 piece set up just think it looks nicer! as said the standard brakes provide enough stopping power for me! if there was a large kit then i would go for that but if i have to stay standard size then thats fine! we've got the Stoptech 2 piece Aerorotors in stock and ready to go. They are offered in either cross drilled or slotted, with slotted being far more popular. Absolutely first rate rotors that will cope with a wide variety of pads. PM me your address, I'll be happy to give you the full quote We also carry the DBA 5000 series, which also are 2 piece, though the Stoptech overall are a higher quality especially when running some of the more aggressive track rated pads out there.

Paul - how much to send to me. I have a customer looking for a pair and would rather not wait for the set to come from Japan so long as these are new in the box

cool...this is on my list last week saw Valkyrie and Frost/Nixon...both were fantastic I thought next up on my must see list - Gran Torino, The Reader, Defiance, The Wrestler

neat pics the Phoenix Inn needs a new roof!!!!

I'm not arguing with you Adam as I def don't know what I'm talking about but why does a Range Rover have larger rotors than a Ford Fiesta? Surely there must be a reason for it?! Wouldn't a larger rotor radiate the heat a lot quicker and take longer to glow thus improving brake fade? Braking distance is determined by lots of things. The two most important are weight of the vehicle and traction. So, the lighter you make your Z, the shorter it stops, and the more you can increase front traction, the shorter the stops. Now, you've also got the situation with braking where you want to be able to repeat that stop over and over again, without any meaningful extension of distances. That's a different type of factor. This is where a big brake kit shines. As far as the Rover vs Fiesta, it's due to weight, and perceived image to the buyer. Brakes are now viewed as much as styling mod as wheels, and manufacturers are keen to this.

I've got my US spec original speedometer cluster for sale if you like I no longer need it, as I currently run a 2008 spec unit (9000 rpm - actually will be selling this one soon too!

ARC has one that costs 2 x that!

larger rotors are not going to make the car stop any shorter the Stoptech Aerorotors shown on that link, and every other 2 piece rotor I can think of (DBA does the 5000 series which are nice too - we use both extensively), are same size as stock, just 2 piece, so they weigh less than stock (primary advantage) and the hats won't retain heat like the OEM rotors as they are aluminum

As 2008 winds down, just wanted to express our thanks to all our friends here on 350Z-UK. I love the time I spend on this board, as it truly feels like a community to me. I only wish I was closed to attend some of the meets, etc. Hopefully 2009 is better than 2008, and it will afford me the chance to travel over there ! All the best to everyone for a healthy, safe and prosperous 2009!! And PS - Phil, a special New Years wish for you...stay strong, and get well soon

Thanks Adam, have spent a fortune on equipment so far, really into it, just purchased a 35mm adapter so can mess about with depth of field to get more film look. Hardest thing im trying to get my head around since need to purchase some 35m lenses mainly nikons, is what focal length and apature is. Have a rough idea but still confused in some areas, if anyone can shed any light on this can't help with Nikon, but my brother works for Cannon LMK if you need anything

Courtesy Parts - postage: UPS Saver $34.00 HOLY @*!#... its a ****ing badge, it can fit in an envelope... JDM performance... 30£££££ OMG i might strip my car down to parts and sell them all for a ferrari!! unfortunately i think these cars are probably worth more in parts than a whole now they are always worth more in parts - even before they are sold to the original buyer

looks good jay...amazing what some time spent and the right equipment can net you!

I'll try to pop down to the shop over the weekend and have a look for you