Adam@Z1auto.com

An Accessport cannot be used on multiple cars - it gets "married" to one ecu only As far as the Accessport is concerned, we have them in stock for the 2003-2006 as well as 2007 + models. Not sure if it works on a UK spec car or not though - I suspect it would though. Cobb has off the shelf maps that are quite nicely tuned, free to download to the unit. If needed, any fine tuning can be done by either of their 2 dealers in the UK, provided they have the ProTuner software.

I can't comment on a K1 as I have no idea who or what it is...not something sold in the US, or if it is, it's another name As far as midpipes, none are sold separately for the Z. Simply reuse your stock unit if going with the Greddy Lots of options out there for exhausts, budget is the primary thing, as they can range widely. The Greddy came to me as something that matched everything you seemed to be after. For another great system, the Fujitsubo stainless would easily fit the bill - sounds terrific, hands down the best weld quality of any stainless system on the market at any price, quiet at idle, no drone, sounds nice and exotic at WOT, bolts to stock or aftermarket Y pipe (Fujitsubo is a muffler/midpipe). Goes for $1499 shipped to the UK. Y pipe sold separately ($670) Fuji stainless that once resided on my car soundclips I am sure are on youtube - I never took any with the stainless setup on The 5Zigen is another great option - a lot more in your face looking and sounding vs the others I've mentioned. We're a 5Zigen dealer as well, though admittedly, that system is expensive for what it is

Greddy Spectrum Elite - just a rear muffler replacement, bolts up to stock midpipe Quite reasoable too at $640US shipped (we took all Greddy's remaining US stock and have 1 left now)

depends on the level of mods to the car by the time you fit an exhaust, cats/test pipes, spacer, intake, etc it really is time for a tune, as the car can certainly run rich I meant to say can certainly run LEAN! Sorry!

With respect to the thermostat, peak temps won't drop by any meaningful amount, just the temp. at which the thermostat opens. On my own car, the ecu didn't like it whatsoever in the winter months, and I got tired of clearing codes. I went back to stock, which is what I have to this day, and there are zero issues. The rad cap is basically a dress up item, and while in theory they improve cooling system efficiency, in reality, they look nice. The Koyo rad does help a bit as the larger unit has much more coolant capacity vs stock, and being all aluminum, dissipates heat at a faster rate vs the factory plastic tanked unit. The Koyo also allow for alot more airflow through the core vs stock by the fin design. It's not the best unit out there, but it's a fantastic piece for the money. An NA and an FI car are apples to oranges. Unless the car is making ~ 2 x the hp of stock, these things are just not a concern whatsoever. I've done track days, up to 1 hour stints on full r compounds, in 100 degree heat, without any overheating issues whatsoever, and with coolant remaining at a steady 200-212F the entire time. My only coolant related mod for this year will be a new shroud and new electric fans I have literally hours and hours datalogging my car at track days with a very fancy unit I picked up while doing the development work on the ITB setup I'm going to be running. The single biggest improvement was switching between a stock hood and my C West unit in terms of underhood temps while both at rest and at motion. My logger showed nearly a 40 degree temp differential vs the stock hood

Can I ask the obvious? What are you trying to accomplish by having the fans on earlier? They are set up from the factory to turn on and off at prescribed times. There is nothing to be gained by having them turn on earlier. Even on my own full NA car, my only mod to the coolant system is Samco hoses (look nicer!) and a Koyo radiator (lighter). I even removed my NISMO thermostat as I found it to be utterly useless, even for track days in the dead of summer....and in winter time, it caused numerous check engine lights which I grew tired of. Even that won't help the car run significantly cooler - all it does is open earlier. Remember everything is aluminum - not like the old cast iron blocks of old where cooling them was essential. Aluminum heats and cools at a far more rapid pace on its own. Having the fans run prior to you shutting the car down is not going to cool the engine bay down any quicker, nor will a larger radiator, nor will a lower temp thermostat. Your 2 main options are: 1. ceramic coat everything in the engine bay - all piping, heads, block, manifold, etc etc (or alternatively, use the foil adhesive, expensive, but very effective 2. fit a hood with a well thought out reversed hood scoop

depends on the level of mods to the car by the time you fit an exhaust, cats/test pipes, spacer, intake, etc it really is time for a tune, as the car can certainly run rich

if the Seibon is what you're after, I'd pick up Paul's - at least you know if fits. Better than finding out the hard way that the TS you got doesn't fit well (ask me how I know!). It's literally a 50/50 chance it will, won't fit. The Varis is in another league altogether, and a much nicer part Other good fitting units are Top Secret, C West, MCR, and ASM

It doesn't increase the flow, it evens the flow out. You get the same total air going through, just more equitably delivered. And if my logic serves right, if its providing more flow to the front 2 cylinders, then the rear ones will be getting less air, and will be running richer. not quite the spacers are raising the entire plenum higher, thus increasing overall volume inside. The net result is that where the front 2 cylinders were more starved for air vs the rear 4, that difference is less with the spacer fitted, and more equalized. The angled spacers, like AAM, address the issue by only really affecting the fronts, others are an even thickness spacer and life the whole plenum equally. No real way is better than the other, just different (and of course, strut brace clearance is another issue)

with an intake, cats, an exhaust, spacer, you would be well served to have the ecu tuned

The Altered Atmosphere spacer that we sell retains the strut brace as well Adam how much is the AA one? does it have a heat soak gasket like the motordyne one? Cheers. $250 + shipping the fancy gaskets (no matter who they are from) are a great marketing tool, but useless in the real world. Everything in the engine bay is aluminum, everything gets extremely hot. Short of ceramic coating everything that emits heat, from the block, to the heads, to the plenums, to the intake pipe, etc, the heat issue is going to be present. Really not a concern when the car is moving anyway

beavis - I notice 2 fluid resevoirs at either side of the car, just in front of the tires. what's the one on the left for? almost looks like you have 2 washer fluid resevoirs?

as fitted to a customer car (also shows the Air Walker bumper too) awesome stuff, and quite rare. We've got a few sets of the skirts in stock too for immediate shipment

the shop didn't test fit the bumper before spraying it? A bit of an odd practice - I'd make it their problem to solve then, not yours

only downside is in summer time. I had one of these on our FC3S RX7 - it gets super, super hot

the Heavy Duty is what ACT calls it's full radius, sprung hub sport clutch. It's designed for NA or FI applications and will hold up to 597 ft lbs of torque. Very nice pedal effort, and very very easy to drive.

Indicator of Price Adam? - I know you'll ask so - GU24 9XA ACT Heavy Duty Clutch ACT Streelight Flywheel = $1098 shipped

pm'd sorry for the late reply

so that means forced induction of some sort (supercharger or turbo). The JWT setup would work ok or the Exedy. I prefer the ACT overall as the flywheel is a 1 piece unit (quieter than the 2 piece JWT), and the ACT clutch holds significantly more power, while having a very nice pedal feel

What are your power goals with the car? What do you use the car primarily for?

hey guys Rich - pm'd you back new batch is en route to us - I expect them to go to Wayne sometime this coming week, probably towards the end of the week. So, still a little time to get any interested parties still on board. Paypal for $156.66 can be sent to z1sales@z1auto.com thanks for leaving it open martinmac

happy to help get the Miata back to it's rightful driver Thanks again mate, enjoy

depends on the year of the car as I recall. My own car is an 04, with 03 build date - I reflashed the ecu back in ~ December 2003 and upped it to 7200 at that time. When the utec was released, I left the rev limiter at that level, and then when my new engine went in, I upped to 8k and then 8400, where it currently sits. I think the 05 and up cars have specific requirements to them. Companies like UpRev, Cobb, Technosquare, etc can better fill you in on the nuances

gears are a linear change, the same change at any point in the rpm range with the VQ35DE engine, we suggest upping the rev limiter, though it's certainly not a requirement

depends on mileage and the skill/luck of the installer Under 25k and your existing bearings can certainly be reused. However in doing so, you need to press them off the old pinion and onto the new one. This can go smoothly or it can be a bit of a pain. If the bearing is damaged or scuffed in any way, then it can't be reused and a new one will be required. That being said, it's about a 50/50 mix of people who buy the install 1, vs install 1 and 2.