Lincolnbaggie

Just a follow-up to this. Booked the car in and said I'd wait while they did the service (they said they'd keep a courtesy car for me anyway in case there was any delay). Took them 2.5 hours while I had coffee and talked 370z with the sales guys (they said they'd let me know when they get their demo in and I can have a play). Technician who did all the work came out to see if there was anything specific I wanted checking. After the service he pointed out that my rears were getting low and the rear wiper blade needed replacing (but said he presumed I'd want to get one from elsewhere as their prices would be stupid). All work done (including brake fluid change which isn't part of the general service) and the price came in at less than the £185 I'd been quoted! Had a good chat with the technician about the car and the mods I'd done and he said that it certainly felt better for the suspension and brake upgrades I'd made over stock. They all seemed genuinely interested in the car and me as a customer. All in all, a very good morning and I'd thoroughly recommend them to anyone in the area. (Even the free coffee was good!) They even rang me a couple of days later to check everything was okay after the service. Excellent service all round! (I thought it fair to sing their praises instead of the usual moaning I do about Nissan dealers.)

Right, from the home screen: "Settings", "General" (scroll down one page), "Customizing Proximity Alerts". Turn on "Audio Notification" and "Visual Notification", and select "Speed Alerts Only" under "Continuous Notification". That should do it. Also, check that under "Settings", "Map" (scroll down two pages), "Zoom Level Detail" (scroll down one page), "Custom POIs" is set to "Auto". Job done.

There is a setting somewhere where you can turn alerts on or off for uploaded POIs - I've installed the cameras on my unit and they do show me an alert a few hundred yards before the camera by flashing a message across the screen (though no voice notification but then I do have the voice on the SatNav turned off). I'll have a look later and let you know where the setting is.

If you watch a lot of Sports and Movies and currently have Sky it's well worth an extra tenner a month in my opinion - but if you don't want to get the Sports and Movies package it's not worth it, and you'd be better off with freesat. The new EPG roll-out has possibly been delayed as it's causing system crashes on some boxes and signal drop-outs. Those with HD Amstrads probably won't get it for some time yet and I doubt it'll pass down to Sky+ boxes at all. You're better off with the old one at the moment anyway. Personally I think most of the SD stuff on Sky is reasonable (and no worse then freeview) - depends on your telly and set-up and which channel. The HD stuff is very good (I can't watch sport on SD anymore without squinting at it). The only problem with Sky is trying to get them to sort any problems out - their customer service is a joke (but then which company isn't these days )

Dont you find that with just using the fronts though it feels like the music is hitting you in the face rather then engulfing you? If the car didnt have any rears then fair enough no need to worry but the rears are there and ready to be used so it just seems a waste to me to have them turned down. Obviously its my personal opinion and you guys may find it perfectly ok with just the fronts but Ive always though that if youve got them then why not use them! A properly setup system that is just using the fronts will fill the car, specially one the size of the 350z which has a tiny amount of cabin space. If you spend the money on getting a better front amp & speakers than you were going to spend on the rears IMO you will get a better sounding system overall. In my old saxo the amount of people who would not believe I had a 1 set of front components and 1 sub was silly - they were top of the range JL 3-ways with proper ampage but went to prove the point. Quality over Quantity If you have a fairly cheap system them it may well be that the rears give you some fill but as you spend more money on better equiptment the rears will loose value But that theory seems to be based on comparing a high quality system running just the fronts to a cheap system running all the speakers. In that scenario yes the fronts would win. But if you took the high quality system you had that was running just the fronts and added in equally high quality amped rear speakers there would definietly be an improvement. Maybe not a huge improvement in sound quality but certainly in volume and cabin fill. I can certainly see that the 350 may not require the rears as its a much smaller car then the ones Ive done most of my audio work on - but in Lincolns case he already has the rear speakers upgraded and he doesnt want to spend a lot of money so I thought the 5 channel would be the best bet. I agree with you both here; if I was spending a lot of money on a high-end system I'd go front only plus sub with two really good amps driving them separately; However, I can't justify spending huge amounts of money on a car system (especially when the engine sounds as good as it does) so just want something that it is going to sound better than it currently does for not much more money. I think this result fills that criteria. I've spent thousands on my home hi-fi as that's where I "listen" to my music as opposed to the car where I only really want to "hear" it while I'm driving. Nice discussion guys, and thanks again all of you.

The H/U I have does play DVDs (haven't watched many), so it would make sense to amp the rears as well (although it wouldn't be in proper 5.1). I'll have a look for five channel amps, but I do like the price of that one Thanks for all your help you guys - you've helped a baffled old bloke out quite well there

Now that looks like an answer! The rears were changed as well, but are not components like the front (just rainbow coaxials). I can't remember the model numbers of the speakers, but they were around £220 for the front and £120 for the rear so they should be half decent I would have thought. I actually think the e4300 is now discontinued and I've only found them second hand on ebay at 70-100 quid so that might not be best option anyway. I didn't really want to go all the way putting a new feed from the battery for a second amp (which I assume I would have to do with a second amp as the wiring may not be big enough otherwise) and I'd have to build some kind of rack to take two behind the seat wouldn't I? So it looks as if a five channel amp may be the way to go. Cheers for your help there Bundus. This amp still only puts out 150W to the sub which was criticised before - would that matter? Now, which sub would work best.........................

Nice install there! No, I'm not driving the rears (they are just fed from the H/U and are used as a little bit of back-fill, but I've got the fader at 13/15 to the front). I prefer my music to come at me from the front as it does at home. I don't want the amp(s) on show, so not bothered with looks or symmetry. The e2150 I have at the moment is in the oem sub space behind the drivers seat and I'd like to retain that position. That's why I thought one four-channel amp was best as it can sit where the 2150 does at the moment and drive the fronts from channels 1 and 2 and a sub from 3 and 4 (as I said the rears are hardly there anyway) and I can sell on the 2150 to get a bit back? Does that sound like a balanced argument?

Cheers Bundus! Coming from a home hi-fi base I was always under the impression that the actual power of an amp wasn't that important - it was more the way it delivered it. Some hi-fi amps are under powered if you look at the specs but drive speakers very well and cost a lot more than big powered but unsubtle amps. Does that not apply to car audio as well. I would have thought a better design with slightly less power would work better than a cheaper amp that just has big power outputs. Maybe I'm wrong? What sort of amp/sub combo would you recommend for my set-up (bearing in mind it would have to drive the fronts as well as just a sub).

Cheers for the help Rob. Does it matter if the amp is only driving the sub to half what it's capable of? The blurb says the sub will handle from 50-300 watts RMS, so even though it's half what it can do it's three times what it needs (am I understanding that correctly?). How will that affect the sound? Budget is really as little as I can get away with but still get something half decent. I'm not after a "boom boom man in a van" noise, just a bit more controlled output from the lower end than the current set-up gives me. Maybe £200 for amp and sub. Is that realistic? Personally I think one amp will fit better and remove the need for more wiring to be added as the wiring specs for the 4300 are the same as the 2150 according to the manuals. Any recommendations on what amp/sub combo to go for would be appreciated (I'm not set on the JL, just heard good things about them).

After some advice from those that know... I currently have a JL Audio e2150 driving my fronts (Rainbow speakers) from my Kenwood DNX7200, but want to get a small sub under the strut brace (10 inch single). Am I better getting a second two channel amp (another e2150?) to drive a JL sub (possibly the JL Audio 10w1v2-4?) or sell the e2150 I have and get a four channel amp (e4300?) to do the lot which could use the existing wiring etc. I don't really want to have to spend a fortune, and have found the e4300 for around £70-£100 on ebay and could possibly get £50 for my e2150. I don't know much about these things, so any advice would be welcome

I am sure we can be amicable at a meet after all we can talk about cars till our hearts content I have posted some pics here: viewtopic.php?f=34&t=24669 Nice Zed - I assume that colour was bought to go with the team (and hence the orange and black interior planned)! I'm sure we can be more than amicable at a meet (my old man was a Wolves fan after all and only took me to the Albion cos it was quieter ) Belated congrats on promotion by the way - we seem to miss each other every year these days. Be good when we are both in the top flight and can stay there!

I've got no chance of making it - sorry guys (although you're probably there by now anyway).

Unfortunately I may well have to pull out - looks like I'll be working all weekend May be able to make it after all, but I can't promise.............

Welcome to the Forum :bye: and congrats on the purchase If you're in Retford you'll have to get across to Lincoln for our monthly meet when you get the new car (although not sure of the badge on the sig )

Unfortunately I may well have to pull out - looks like I'll be working all weekend

I'll be there if that helps numbers

Just booked in for a P2 at Crystals Nissan in Lincoln - £185 all in (providing my own oil); not a bad price me thinks

1. martinmac 2. xstric9x+Bex 3. Ian 4. Chris`I+Amanda (TBC - may have to do an overnighter!) 5. Scot 6.M350ZB +1 (TBC with the +1) 7. IanS16 8. R800NER 9. Austin350z 10. M13KYF 11. Nurrish 12. Lincolnbaggie (TBC)

JDM - therefore first key was programmed to open both doors on one click, but spare key wasn't. Need to press unlock on second key twice to open both doors. Probably wrong, but that's my guess

Be very careful with a flexiblade - one small piece of grit stuck to the blade and you've got a very bad scratch

If we're going to do the Ashes-to-Ashes British Leyland thing, then here is my contribution from the early 80s. Cracking car (apart from the rust) and a nice burble from the 3.9 V8 - I'm not posting pictures of me with it though, that would be too scary! 2 in 1985 - I was at Uni then!

Sorry Gilly, only put the photo up so people knew what you were after - mine isn't for sale (if I ever sell the car I would need to put this back for the new owner I would think - UK GT car without the hands-free wouldn't be right really). Good luck in your search.

So this is what you want?