Lincolnbaggie

or just get a P2 done as it's exactly the same as a P3 but costs less! Plugs, brake fluid and coolant are additional service items that are time/mileage dependent and are not part of the standard P1, P2 or P3 services anyway (having said that my last service included the brake fluid in the price which I wasn't expecting), so check when they were last done - plugs need changing every 54,000 miles/5 years, brake fluid should be done every two years/27,000 miles and coolant every 3 years/36,000 miles.

I'm going to have to pull out of this one - idiot friend of mine has decided to get married that day down in Sussex. Can someone take my name off the list. Hope you all have a great day

Can not be removed and refitted successfully with engine in place. Cheers Alex, I knew you'd be the man who knew I'll have to rethink my plans then

I was thinking of something more than just a polish and for that it really needs to come off......

Had a search and couldn't find anything, so can someone tell me how easy it is to remove the timing cover? Are there any special precautions to take, or is it simply a case of unbolting the bolts and removing and reverse to fit again? Are there gaskets that will need replacing or risk of losing any fluids etc. I've had a look at the CD workshop manual and it seems to be a nighmare job but don't know anything about it. Cheers for any advice.

Cause he cant put the bolt behind the harness cover!! FOOL!!! At least I put it politely

Cos the one that's in the way has a nut behind the cover that you wouldn't be able to get to once the cover is fixed down. Just a slight design flaw I think.

Cheers for all your help folks (as always) Cutting my snap-on allen key looks the way to go then.....

I thought that as well, but just wanted to check I wasn't being a complete muppet first. I'd rather not cut the key but I guess I may have no choice?

Tried to fit my harness cover yesterday However, I'm having problems tightening the bolts that hold it to the timing cover. I've fixed the brackets behind the cover as in the instructions, but that doesn't leave enough room to get the allen key on to the other bolts I can't tighten the bolts to the timing cover first cos then you can't get at the nut behind the cover? Am I doing something wrong, or do I just need a much shorter allen key (which I haven't got)? I'm sure other people have fitted these and I must be doing something wrong Any help much appreciated!

I would say that for the fronts (8.5J) you need a 245 wide tyre, so 245/40/18 would be pretty spot on (only -1.06% from stock, 653 mm rolling diameter as compared to 660 mm stock) Backs (9.5J) you would need probably a 265 wide tyre, so 265/40/18 would again be closest (only -1.33% from stock, 669 mm rolling diameter as compared to 678 mm stock) or you could go for 275 wide (275/40/18) which would be spot on compared to stock. Depends how stretched you want the tyre over the width of the wheel. Adam at Z1 probably would give you better guidance. Certainly the tyre sizes they come with are not correct (the backs are over 5% different, and the fronts 2.27% different from stock). Hope that helps? Thats a great help thanks, I just wanted some to confirm my thoughts that the tyre sizes didn't look right. So do you think a 265 rear would look too stretched? Was definitely thinking that a 245/40/18 front was right, and like you have said would go for a 265/40/18 rear. Thanks again for the help. Standard Rays rear is 8.5J and uses a 245 mm tyre, which is why I suggested that for the front for your 8.5J wheel. 9.5J is an inch wider (unless I'm being a complete muppet here), so ideally should be around 270 mm wide - I don't think you'd notice any difference between 265 and 275 in looks. I think standard 19 inch Nismo rears are 9.5J and they all seem to run 275 tyres, but get someone else to confirm that. The 275/40/18 certainly is closer to stock than 265/40/18 for rolling circumference and would have least effect on your traction control etc.

I would say that for the fronts (8.5J) you need a 245 wide tyre, so 245/40/18 would be pretty spot on (only -1.06% from stock, 653 mm rolling diameter as compared to 660 mm stock) Backs (9.5J) you would need probably a 265 wide tyre, so 265/40/18 would again be closest (only -1.33% from stock, 669 mm rolling diameter as compared to 678 mm stock) or you could go for 275 wide (275/40/18) which would be spot on compared to stock. Depends how stretched you want the tyre over the width of the wheel. Adam at Z1 probably would give you better guidance. Certainly the tyre sizes they come with are not correct (the backs are over 5% different, and the fronts 2.27% different from stock). Hope that helps?

Normal tyres are 225/45/18 on the front and the nearest match for that on 235 width is 235/45/18 (only 9mm difference on circumference), ie same sidewall 245/45/18 on back normally, so should be 265/40/18 to keep nearest the circumference if going for 265 wide (again only 9mm difference). Basically the sidewall is given as a percentage of the width (ie 45% of 225 for the standard front), and you should aim to keep the rolling circumference the same as stock else your speedo will be out. Width of the tyre will depend on the width of the wheel (8.5 and 9.5 in your first post) Play around on http://www.tyresave.co.uk/tyresize.html to see what differences it makes.

Got a horrible picture now of you breaking into my tent at 5 am and demanding money with menaces

I assume there is no problem arriving on the Friday, stopping over night, disappearing for the Sat afternoon and coming back in the evening and leaving Sunday? (Can't miss the footie on the Saturday else my Sis will kill me). I assume we bring a tent and just pay when we get there or do we have to pay in advance? If all the above is correct, stick me down (on my tod though )

If you can get to Clumber tomorrow we should be able to see if it is behaving normally for you?(although can't promise we can diagnose any faults)

Website working fine this morning!

I've also got stuff on back order with them and they've taken the money already, so let us know what you hear (bit worried about my order now as well!)

I've got a blade front bumper in my shed, but it's not in mint condition. Was resprayed to remove stone chips, but I think it was stored while not completely dry and there is some bubbling of the paint down one edge and a couple of scratches. Would probably need sanding down and a bit of a respray. I'm in Lincs if you're interested in a stop gap?

not sure that would work as I think it emits and receives the waves. Any break or non return would trigger the alarm. It needs to do both. never thought of that

I'd try an ECU reset and see if that cures the problem?

Doesn't locking it with the key (rather than the fob) not activate the alarm, so you can leave pets etc in the car without them setting it off (or am I thinking of a different car)? There is a sensor under the bonnet as well that will activate the alarm - is the bonnet shut properly? Also, try putting some tape over the sensors on the roof and see if it still goes off? Other than that I'm stumped... sorry.

Kid on a push bike challenged me at the lights in Gainsborough not long back. Shouted he'd have a fiver on getting away first and then shot off through the red light!

My two (Huffy and Baggie) Likes: eating, sleeping, eating, sleeping, eating, sleeping, eating, sleeping etc etc Dislikes: Being woken up and empty plates

Nice looking Zed! I see you're from Grimsby - how about getting to the meet at Clumber Park this Sunday (viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24919) - not too far from you and be great to see the car and meet you