Lincolnbaggie

Terry

1. Arkwright 2. Lincolnbaggie 3. Chesterfield 4. Introspect 5. ATTAK Z (pencilled in) 6. Niko 7. Mitch 8. Roo (pencilled in) 9. Madmarky 10. madmarco 11.Beermonster 12. Steve Burns 13. bembo449 +1 14. Moggy240

I meant for me to have a second team, not you If your second team wins I demand a half share

Yep, stickers are the only way. They do clean off with some elbow grease (mine did anyway)

Can we have two teams if we pay again?

Bump for this We'll arrange to meet somewhere beforehand and drive in together - may even get a few convoys to get there depending on who's coming from what direction We'll discuss all that nearer the time. 1. Lincolnbaggie 2. Chesterfield 3. Introspect 4. ATTAK Z (pencilled in) 5. Niko 6. Mitch 7. Roo (pencilled in) 8. Madmarky 9. 10. 11.

I've got quite used to my clicking and think I would miss it if it were gone

What he said - much better off with an import than a bent UK car

Most original plenums and nuts will be like that by now - new polished plenum and bolts will sort the appearance, but it's nothing to worry about (ask Chesterfield )

+1 one of the many benefits of being a member on a good forum like this.....

A few of the 296 bhp engines had problems with excessive oil consumption (but not that many); something to with slight ovality in the cylinders during the casting stage of the block if I remember

It should have stamps at 9k, 18k,27k,36k,45k so it should have just been serviced or its overdue one.......... Yeah, it should have just had the fifth one at that mileage, but it's only the P1 due then (as long as the P3 was done at 36k) so fairly cheap - could be another bargaining tool if it hasn't been done.

to the madhouse

Defo go for the stuart turner they are a bit more expensive, but we sell both and get far less problems with them than salamander. Check the size of your stored hot and cold water tanks as you don't want it draining them. Also if your Aga feeds the hot cylinder make sure you fit a thermostatic blending valve on the hot feed before the pump as very hot water is bad for the seals in them. Cheers for that info Richt! I was always swaying towards the Stuart Turner, just a bit worried about reports of noise with them. Hot water cylinder has a thermostat on it so can keep temp below 65°C. Hot water cylinder size was my other concern (both tanks in the roof should be able to supply enough), but I was contemplating getting a bigger cylinder (but they are so damn expensive); for one person having a decent shower a day plus washing up what would you recommend - will a standard 1050x400 mm cylinder be enough, or should I upgrade to a 1500x400 one (174 litres; bearing in mind mine is very old and likely scaled up to the nines anyway)? Also, what are your prices like (how much would you do a Monsoon Universal 2.0 bar Twin pump for) - like to keep things in the "family" if possible. PM me if you like.

Cheers for all your help you two - it's much appreciated

See viewtopic.php?f=13&t=37117

there's only me here (unless I get very lucky ), so no worries on taps being open a lot. Only ever use the shower, basin for washing hands and washing up etc. Washing machine is cold feed only - think I'll be okay. Header tank for the hot water is a 50 gallon one, plus I'll have the same again for the cold side so should be plenty for me .... All I need to do is fit a flange to the cylinder to avoid air being drawn into the pump - the rest of the system can be used as is around the cylinder? Both of the pumps I listed are whole house pumps as far as I can tell.....

You, sir, are a hero I haven't any room in the roof to raise the tanks (it's an old cottage with dormer windows upstairs). What sort of pump would you recommend? Are the two I posted in the first post suitable for my needs? I shouldn't need much more than 2.5 bar I wouldn't have thought for what I want (no body jets or anything like that) - just a fixed head shower through a thermostatic mixer valve, basin and bath hot and cold taps and hot feed to the kitchen and utility taps

Payment sent

Now I'm confused Why can't I use a pump for the whole house hot water (as long as it's designed for whole house use and capable of positive and negative head operation, ie pressure vessel built in)? I need it to supply the bathroom plus the kitchen and utility hot taps - surely I can just connect the hot feed from the pump into the existing hot water pipes that go downstairs and put new piping to the bath/sink/new shower in the bathroom. All this can be supplied from a "no loss" flange to the pump and blank off the normal hot water outlet on the top of the cylinder. The cold side will feed to the pump from the second, dedicated tank in the roof and just feed from the pump to the bath/sink/new shower in the bathroom Am I missing something here?

But if I'm using a 3bar pump to feed an unvented system, why shouldn't I just use the pump to feed the taps direct I only really want about 12 litres/min from the hot and sold taps in the house (not something I will get from mains feed alone on a regular basis here) (my mains pressure is sometimes that low that the old electric shower used to stop completely when anyone else in the road turned a tap on)

Problem is my mains pressure is practically zero - I'm at the end of a long 15mm feed from the main pipe that goes to three other cottages before it reaches my house. You hardly need to bother turning the water off to do any repairs........

Hi Russ, thanks for the offer Yes, already have a hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard with a feeder tank in the roof, but also have a separate cold water tank feeding the current shower (a pumped Triton TS80i I put in years ago - bit like an electric shower, but pumped from a tank instead of using mains pressure). The problem I have is that the mains pressure here is non-existent and the hot water flow is just as bad (very little head), so a fully pumped system is the way forward (the current shower only pushes out about 4 litres/min). I am going to use the existing hot water cylinder and feeder tank for the hot side and the other cold water tank for the cold side (gives me enough water then to save running out!), all through the pump (hence the need for a negative/positive head pump) to feed all the hot taps in the house plus the cold taps in the bathroom. I'll leave the toilets/washing machine etc on mains so that the pump doesn't come on at night. The ceiling needs to come down anyway, so I may as well replace the pipework etc in the roof space and insulate it all properly - it's a mess up there at the moment as the house is about 200 years old and has been bodged before I moved in. Am I missing anything obvious in your opinion? Do you have any advice re what pump to go for? Hugh, a combi boiler is out as I have an oil-fired, dual-burner Aga in the kitchen that does both the cooking and heating and I don't want to replace that.

Pub is okay, but used to be much, much better! Did you see the aftermath of the village squabble in there then? A couple of black eyes were present when I returned there at 6.30 pm

But this is the thing that confused me. I did not remote lock the car. I simply locked it by turning the key in the door. In other cars i have owned (including other NATS cars) that does not arm the car alarm, merley it immobilises it. Anyway, not just me then! Will double check that the interior light does go off eventually if the car is not locked and resort to that method. And to the poster above - yes, the weather is not as hot today Just found this in the anti-theft system handbook: "Ultrasonic sensor exclusion: It is possible to arm the system without the interior sensors being activated (for example to leave a passenger in the car). 1. Turn ignition key ON and OFF 3 times within 7 seconds 2. Arm the system by pressing the LOCK button on the remote control within 20 seconds 3. The doors will lock and the direction indicators will flash once 4. All other functions of the systme remain unchanged." That may well be what you are looking for