Zzzz...

not even a diesel micra achieves 120g diesel zed anyone it could be called a "Zed-di"

if they are 5 with 5 different colours (banana, tomato, black, blue, gold, GUNMETAL) (actually this is 6!)in one single photo I think that woudl be quite impressive...

is there anyone there...? I'll PM you...

or spot a "most excellent "car in a public space...

Thanks to The Minel kindness on my "most excellent" spotting, i can now display my allegiance to the cause... Thanks again Minel... the car feels faster already...

I was working really hard the other day and by accident my PC self directed itself to google so i had no option but to google for a while ( honest boss...) , and in that time i found some web pages that reminded me of this posting ... maybe another idea for your little long term project? you probably understan what a ITX bla bla bla is... http://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetails. ... de=DSH-007 The G35 Stealth spare tire carputer case allows a complete mini-ITX based computer to be installed in under the trunk cover in the empty space within the G35 spare tire. The computer will be completely hidden after being installed. It can be installed and removed without any tools and all wires can remain connected to the computer when the spare tire is removed. The case will support a mini-ITX motherboard, an M1-ATX or M2-ATX DC-DC power supply, and a 2.5" hard drive. http://freediag.sourceforge.net/index.html Freediag is a suite of vehicle diagnostic protocols and an OBD II (mostly) compliant ScanTool, currently for Linux platforms. Multiple graphical user interfaces for scantool are under development - http://mobile-data.microbus.com/product ... cle_pc.php

just realised that M13KYF had already pointed out this one.... ops... I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, I must read ALL posts before replying, ........

it might be a long shot considering the state of the car, the lamp might be ok or shattered but the ballast unit might still be ok.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/nissan-350Z-2006- ... dZViewItem ballast units... ... platinum visa required... good luck!

I seem to remeber that if you give RML a Micra and 50grand they could build one for you. This was on the Nissan Stand at the Goodwood festival of speed a couple of years back, before that there was another one with a Nissan primera P11 2.0 GT engine from the old BTCC racing cars ( RML used to prepare them...) To be honest I think it would class with the "metrosexual" look they are trying to create for Micra... http://www.carpages.co.uk/nissan/nissan ... -03-06.asp

Mr LMS... are you checking your ebay and pay pal accounts recently?

I was thinking more along the lines of Mountain Bikes... but today I have been enlightned ... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_torpedo_boat

I,ve been doing a bit more digging around, the Xenon lamps will require a ballast to generate the peak voltage and then within the unit there must be a converter from DC to AC, as these lamps require AC. this could explain the weird results and why you are getting similar readings, but since I have no idea about electrics... and you guys have things that measure eletricts, and stuff I'll let you read interesting anorak websited about this stuff...it might help a bit more to clarify the concern...enjoy http://members.misty.com/don/dschlamp.html http://members.misty.com/don/d2.html

GOT IT...THANK YOU!

they are higher voltage to start (around 20000 volts) , i.e. to generate the voltage arc to go between the two terminals. Once the arc is generated between the two terminals, and reacting with the Xenon gas inside the bulb it generates the light , it is just a matter of maintaining some voltage to keep the arc going... so it reverts back to normal 12v running voltages...

Actually I have been wondering whether I could fit my MTB in , so this is pretty usefull for me, i had not tried it yet... But I'll give it a go and ensure it fit's, then I will show my mates how "unpractical" my car is , and how I CAN go MTB'ing with them if I want ... (without a roof rack, bike rack, another car , a trailer etc...and other great ideas they have given me... ) EXCELLENT! CHEERS

CAPTAIN SENSIBLE HERE AGAIN Safely Working with Gas Discharge Lamps and Fixtures Fixtures for gas discharge lamps may use up to 30,000 V while starting depending on technology. Thus, the only safe way to work with these is to assume that they are potentially lethal and treat them with respect. Hazards include: Electric shock. There is usually little need to probe a live fixture. Most problems can be identified by inspection or with an ohmmeter or continuity tester when unplugged. Discharge lamps and fixtures using iron ballasts are basically pretty inert when unplugged. Even if there are small capacitors inside the ballast(s) or for RFI prevention, these are not likely to bite. However, you do have to remember to unplug them before touching anything! - just make sure they are off and battery unplugged unplugged before touching anything! Those using electronic ballasts can have some nasty charged capacitors so avoid going inside the ballast module and it won't hurt to check between its outputs with a voltmeter before touching anything. Troubleshooting the electronic ballast module is similar to that of a switchmode power supply. The pulse starters of some high intensity discharge lamps may produce up to 30 kV during the starting process. Obviously, contact with this voltage should be avoided keeping in mind that 30 kV can jump over an inch to anyplace it wants! CAREFUL WHERE YOU STICK YOUR FINGERS.....

I alway get these mixed up, but I think Xenon also means gas Discharge lamps, right?. I say this because the Gas Discharge Lamps work by generating a very high voltage to start the bulb off... There is no filament as normal bulbs I think just two terminals and a gas in between them(xenon?), so you need high voltage to "arc" between the two terminals. The black box you refer to, I think is the ballast box. This is in charge of accumulating high voltage (something silly like 20000volts ...) and then using this voltage to arc between the terminals. Once it achieve this the voltage to maintain the arc is relatively low... and it is this arc, and the xenon gas which causes the illumination to occur... If the ballast unit is not working properly... it means it is not generating enough voltage to arc the bulb and get it working... That could be the fault on your lamp... not cheap, me thinks...

OK my opinion and query Rounds ALWAYS distibute the stress applied to that hole evenly. Sharp corners are always stress concentrators, so a groove probably is rounded at the bottom but where it meets the top surface will have a corner. I guess in principle even drilled holes should have radius edges to prevent stress concentrations in the top surface, but that is more expensive and maybe the cheaper disks will not consider this. Also bare this in mind, drill and slot means you actually reduce the effective friction surface, so yes, you are going to allow gas to escape and prevent overheating, but at the same time by having less effective surfaces (because of all the holes and slots etc), aren't you going to require more energy (i.e heat) to have the similar braking effect. ? Then there is the issue of heat cycling and distortion, and judder, due to extra heat input, lower amount of metal, etc...but all this gets into areas where I am a complete novice and would not even dream to comment... captain sensible says keep as much friction surface as you can...

squeeze them for what they are worth... ( if you are right, and you know you can win... )

I find dealing with stealers very easy... Be very cool and polite... and just agree and tell them that you will be happy to pay the £38quid inspection fee if it proves that it is not a warrantable item, that is, that the window mechanism has not had a failure or defect caused through parts defect, incorrect assembly or normal usage, and they have conclusive evidence it is none of the above... this normally shuts them up...because 1. they are not bright enough to find out if the parts where defective (maybe only the factory guys and the suppliers of these parts can tell this... not a spotty technician in a stealer ) 2. they don't know how the part was supposed to be assembled (in detail) what where the torques for each bolt etc, alignment etc... 3. how do they explain abnormal usage of a window regulator ? ( oh sir you used you small finger instead of your index and that loads the switch unevenly... causing and error in the electric circuit? YEAH RIGHT) Since trying to prove all of the above is near impossible...(ask for evidence in writing if they say they can prove it...that should be interesting to see and since the car is in warranty it then becomes a lot easier just to call NMGB and ask them to authorise the claims...I have done this in the past with nissan dealers and my missus micra, I have got replaced on that car: 1. Rattling idler shaft of T/M 2. Seat Recliners mech (3 times!!!!) 3. Window regulators ( 2 times !!! seems that nissan can't design windows that go up and down...) 4. Re-coded the Intelligent keys ( 2 times ) 5. Ignition barrel 6. New Headlamps 7. New Steering wheel. And they are lucky the warranty expired as I have a few other things could do with replacing on that car... Good Luck...

not open ... just not fully closed,like the glass, half full or half empty... I like to think about it positively I'll try and reset the windows...thanks for the advice!

hello every one ... i have got a query about wind noise. Normally everything is ok, but i have had a couple of occasions where the wind noise increases from the top of the door glass' at speeds over 85mph... (it was an accident... i normally drive within the speed limit)at first i thought it must be normal situation, but today i found that i could raise the glazss a couple of mm. this was the reason for the extra wind noise. however after a while the noise came back again. In my car the glass seems to creep open a couple of mm whilst driving' making the wind noise worse. has anyone had this concern before? i am reading about the glass reset procedure, but i think this is a different concern.

I was joking... everyone can do what they want or dont want ... With my comment above I was being a bit anorak-sarcastic about enjoying the "purity" of the car... you'll find from other posts that anything that involved parts removal, cables and technology, is not my thing ... However reducing noise and making it "comfortable" at motorway road speeds, is my thing at the moment.

I am currently in the middle of studying how to reduce the road noise ... I was planning on summarising my results later on once I tried several items and decided the best combination. Currently 1. acquired 2mx2m of black felt type material ( similar to what halfords sell for 22 quid) around 5mm thick. 2. Removed the trunk carpet 3. Cut a a exact shape of the carpet and laid it underneath the original. RESULT: No significant difference on road noise, but water splash sounds a tiny amount muffled. 4. Next I Plugged every visible hole, without removing any trim. (this is mainly all the holes in the front part of the trunk). I plugged them using a patch of foam/felt and duck tape ( I know , but it is only a trial... i'll do it tidy when i decide what is best) RESULT : Noticeable noise reduction and water splash from the RR arches. Much more noticeable the exhaust sound. (Note my missus who i have not told her anything about what i was doing , noticed the difference! ) 5. Next applied the Underlay for the trunk mat and the patch holes combined. RESULT : The road Noise is what I would class acceptable, now I can hear the road noise with a Bias towards the front of the car. But best of all the Audio now works at motorway speeds! (without increasing the volume to silly levels 6. I applied another layer of this felt stuff under the spare tyre cardboard cover, but this had no additional effect ( at least noticeable) This is where I am at right now... Next stage : 7. Remove RR strut brace trim and pad it out completely to eliminate the Noise path from the road->Road to Wheel to Hub to Knuckle to strut to suspension mounting body metal. From there it must go straight into the "resonant box" that is the RR Strut brace trim. I am hopefull this will make the road noise level almost dissappear 8. Then test the effect of a Tonneau Cover (alone and with each of the above ideas individually and finally combined) (but this cost money... I am trying to do this on a budget... 9. Then it is a matter to address the FR road noise. But right now I am very happy with the level of the car. (Maybe add some dampein material to the wheel arch liners ( inside) but I am not sure because they'l get wet, can fall off etc... maybe not very good to do For the Audio Side and Doors, I am not sure of the benefits and for me it sounds like too much trim, mechanism removal.... I'll keep you posted and maybe finally I can send post a "service bulletin" (with the photos!!!! I know.... ) with ideas for improving noise , cost and time to do the job... I'll be interested on hearing your results also, and share the best ideas

Maybe daft question, but your trade is a bit new to me , and from what i have heard up to now I am VERY interested, but one thing I want to clarify: You mention about paint correction... does this mean that you can make good the 2 spots of pigeon damage which came with the car when i bought it, or do I have to go and get these re-sprayed in advance and then call you? (also, is bedfordshire within your normal working range, or will it require a special visit.)