Chris`I

I dont think the hot air theory stands up to iterrogation. Everyone would suffer from it if it was that. Cold air feed or not, pop chargers dont have it and we both show the same symptoms. I'd be inclined to sway towards Phils explaination in that is a sticky butterfly as it has to be something that no one else has. Question is how do we clean the butterfly? I thought people had done this before and knackered them and were told not to clean them?

A/C on. Did the ECU reset. Seemed to work for one start and then it just stalls on subsequent starts. Tried to do the throttle pos reset and idle air reset and they seemed to do their thing, but still when you start it, the idle blips, and when it drops, it drops too far. If you catch it on the way down and tap the throttle it stops dropping and contiues to run as normal. Its weird. I think it might be an air leak somewhere, or god forbit a knackered MAF. I think if it was the MAF though, it would do it all the time and not just when it was warm. Might put my stock airbox on at the weekend and see if it still does it

Could always come over here to my tuner I'd say he would do a group buy Ireland Run 2009? Could do a tour of Scotland > Wales > Ireland > Wales again and get it tuned on the way

Mine has done it since I have had the pop charger. Since installing it its had a service which included plugs. Are you running plenum spacers? Revs seem to be the same as mine. I just stalls sometimes after the car starts and blips the throttle itself, the revs drop too far, say to around 500 revs then it either saves itself or dies. No other issues with it

What does you car idle at when warm Mike? I have a feeling its just a case of the idle being too low. It happens with my pop charger, but sometimes it saves itself, sometimes it stalls. If you tap the throttle a tiny amount when it starts to drop it doesnt stall. Need to check what mine idles at, but would be interesting to see what yours is at.

Yeah, give you that one. I'm going to get some Dodo Juice next, just run out of P21S

My P21S beads better than that

Check out MP3car.com - theres plenty of threads over there on 350z installs, including Leemiks and Pingu's. You do it all yourself. Build a small PC, or use a laptop like me, and then wire it all in. Get a 7" screen and install it into the cubby space.

Yeah my mate from MLR posted me this today. That has to be the worst ever job! I've seen crashed Zeds look better than that!

Me too! + 1 Chris!! Also the action shots with all the water splumming [new English word, lol) around the back of the two cars!!! Droplets and all!!! Waiting for Tilly to hopefully submit if for the calendar to up my chances of getting a photo in it

LOL - very dangerous!

I beleive it is a plug and play system, in that it sits between the ECU and the rest of the system, utilising the OEM connectors. Adam@Z1 has always rated them I beleive. Always been a bit to expensive for what you get BHP/£ wise, but then if we now have a tuner who has base maps, I guess the cost would fall.

Great pics Rentech

I'm just doing it to show the MLR boys what a real engine sounds like

WV2 Oops - I see that was answered a long time ago - must have missed this thread earlier. He got the code already Jim, got the kit too. This was a while ago. Was seeing how he got on with it

Excellent, now get out and drive

Should be fine. I'm going with the MLR lot when they next arrange a day. What rollers are you going to?

Another DW thread http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... tone+chips Also bumped the sprayless chip repair thread to see how Kennedies got on

Good stuff. Any eta on when you plan to do it? Might hold off til we see the results Bump! Did you get the kit mate? How did it go? Few people (inc me) are looking for a good stone chip repair solution

As said on that thread, they can be a bit hit and miss depending on who runs your local franchise. I can recommend Basingstoke for instance, as they have done work on a couple of my families cars and always did well. I think for paint chips however, I would do it myself. The reason for this is that with metallics you really need to layer the paint you fill the chip with. The reason for this is that when you put a big dollop of paint in a chip the metallic fleck will sink and leave a funny tint to the paint (ie overly dark from some angles and overly light from others). The only way to really avoid this is to spray which makes the flecks stand up. However this isnt possible on chips. So the idea is to add only a tiny amount to the chip at once and keep doing it a few times once its dry. This means that the flecks wont sink as much and gives a better finish. Using a cocktail stick or needle is the recommended way to do this. Obviously chips away cant do this in teh time they have the car and you can see that on my car as the ones I did look far better! (I got them to do my chips while they were doing a scuff on the rear - which for the record they did a perfect job on, just didnt have the time to do the chips as well as it could be) Another option is Dr Color Chip ( http://drcolorchip.com/ ), which someone on here was going to trial, but never hear the results. Might be worth searching and seeing if you can see how they got on. Its meant to be good EDIT: Heres a writeup on DW of the ColorChip system - http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... hp?t=77128

The good old stock airbox is the best intake many say you can get for the Zed. I believe many race teams use them, especially the one from 06 onwards where (again I think) it has the venturi ring. Pop charger is all about the noise, not the power

Interesting! Their video is hillarious! Just have to watch it. His test does nothing to prove how strong it is, he needs to be on the highway doing a ton to show that!

Wow, good job, thats dedication!!

No I think you are right. I'm sure TG or Fifth Gear said that was the case. I'd get that letter sent and see if they reply. All of it seems reasonable if they want to prove that you (or driver rather) were agreeing to the contract.

Yes, just dont look! Its wrong on the highest level of wrong.