Chris`I

Yellow and red are definately the colours to have EDIT: Alright I cant spell

As the others have said the pop charger and exhaust are just for sound. The ECU will cancel out the increase in air flow by simply opening the throttle less. The spacer will give you more torque and power but only marginal. It balances out the air flow to the front two pistons which means they get more air (same as the back pistons) and gives a better burn of the fuel. This in turn gives you slightly more power and torque, but as the airflow stays the same, the ECU can not cancel it out.

I beleive the UK Nismo bumpers are fibreglass, but the US are plastic? As Stew says Aerosync make a lovely copy which is meant to fit perfectly (better than the Nismo some say)

7 post newby...... You can have a guess at the other 58 if you like!! Yeah when are you going to mod it mate? You've had it long enough

I beleive that there was a certain cutoff (perhaps post 06) where you can change the blipper to open one or both doors on a sinlge button press. It doesnt work on my 53 reg. Something like holding down both buttons on the blipper for a certain number of seconds. Quick search should reveal all

Yup, from what I've heard its just coloured wax, so will evenutally wash out. 2 options I have seen that work well are: 1) Get a touch up kit from www.paints4u.co.uk . Get the kit with all the bits, swabs, paint, cleaner, laquer etc - Scratch Master Kit 2) Get a kit from http://drcolorchip.com/ . It comes from the States but is meant to be very good. You basically smear the paint on and they wipe off the excess using their special cleaner. Theres a write up on detailing world if you do a google. Oh and also, I would only ever paintshield over the bits if a professional had sorted out the chips. You want the paint to be perfect under it as once you have it on, you cant sort them out again without removing and re-applying it.

Anothter thing you can do to remove baked on brake dust is a clay bar. Do this before polishing. It really does depend on what the 'crap' is that you're trying to shift.

Thats excellent news Andrew. As the others have said, make sure you get your rest, its so easy to forget about yourself at times like this, so make sure you eat and drink plenty. If that doesnt do it, I dont know what will! Oh and thanks for the quick response Andrew, all sorted now. Didnt mean to hassle you, blame Fletch for that one

I'd rather buy a really decent second hand one, drop a TT kit in there. At least then you know its good and not going to blow up in 10 minutes!

All in hand Christopher! Not the stubby though... Cant find one I like! I gave up and just got the S2000 one. Not perfect, but better than OEM

Nice one matey You need a stubby and a clear fog light

Yeah, I didnt get the heat resistance part either, I just assumed that its more for track focused cars or something like that where they can get hot. Saying that when I had my wheels last refurbished, the lady I spoke to was telling me about horror stories of putting the wrong products on your wheels. She had one chap with a teg that had just had the wheels newly done, pegged it home and sprayed something on them straight away (like Wicked wheels or whatever its called). His lovely new shiney white wheels were ruined as they were boiling hot and the stuff baked on. I guess that some wheels do get pretty hot as when he brought them back to be done again, she said they had to wait for them to cool down before they could remove them! Sounded a bit dodgy to me, but they did a puka job of my wheels I see. For application of a product, I completely agree. It's only a few products (a lot of Poorboys stuff actually) that can be applied in anything other than 'cool' conditions. Trying to use any of the sealants on baking hot surfaces will cause problems I would think. My point was that if a sealant works on a paint surface, it is probably more than capable of standing up to road wheel temperatures. Ah I see. I thought you were saying wheels didnt get hot Yup, its generally agreed that any sealant will do the job, with AG EGP and Jetseal being pretty highly rated amonst the more focused wheel sealants.

Yeah, I didnt get the heat resistance part either, I just assumed that its more for track focused cars or something like that where they can get hot. Saying that when I had my wheels last refurbished, the lady I spoke to was telling me about horror stories of putting the wrong products on your wheels. She had one chap with a teg that had just had the wheels newly done, pegged it home and sprayed something on them straight away (like Wicked wheels or whatever its called). His lovely new shiney white wheels were ruined as they were boiling hot and the stuff baked on. I guess that some wheels do get pretty hot as when he brought them back to be done again, she said they had to wait for them to cool down before they could remove them! Sounded a bit dodgy to me, but they did a puka job of my wheels

So say if you were to have a drag race, are you saying you should shift before redline? I always thought you should shift as late as possible As soon as you hit peak torque, it doesnt take long before you are not gaining power, so better off changing up. Also you have very little time before you redline, so yes, change up as soon as you get to peak torque to avoid hitting the limiter Surely you should change at the point the torque in the gear you are changing to is greater than the gear you're in. So if the decline isn't sharp and the same or more torque isn't available then it may be quicker to stay in the gear. Think CTR VTEC, and if you change gear at the right time you're right in the sweet spot for the next gear. Get it wrong, and it's horrid! Yeah guess so Not as important in the Zed as the torque curve is so flat, was just trying to get across the point that you shouldnt assume going to the redline everytime is the quickest way

Get them on ebay, no one on here will buy them, and if they do, I'm sending Zedrush over to sort them out!

Any good sealant will do, but proper wheel sealant tends to be heat resistant too. AG EGP is meant to be ok, as is Carlack (forget which one), but something like Poorboys wheel sealant is best as its heat resistant which is meant to stop the brake dust baking on. I have been using it on my Rotas since new (4 layers when new) and it works like a dream. Just use normal car shampoo and an old wash mitt to wash them, clean up soooo easy

Glad you like it

Give Adam@Z1auto or Kev@Envy a ring/pm. They should be able to help. Didnt Zedrush have GTS on his at one point? Try PMing him too

Good news, I'm sure Phil will continue to fight, he never gives up easily.

Is the lip not laquered? I'll defer on this for now, as I dont want to give you information that may damange your wheels. Should someone confirm they are laquered or not then we can help you out. Also what is left behind when you clean them? Is it brake dust? Streaks? This will help us decide on how to clean them. For now do not use Autosol or anything agressive until we know what we are dealing with

So say if you were to have a drag race, are you saying you should shift before redline? I always thought you should shift as late as possible As soon as you hit peak torque, it doesnt take long before you are not gaining power, so better off changing up. Also you have very little time before you redline, so yes, change up as soon as you get to peak torque to avoid hitting the limiter

Cant recommend one as such, but I have a Halfords all in one job which has done me well over the years with my bike and cars. It will fast charge until it gets a full charge and will then trickle it until you disconnect it.

Only the pre-06 ones. Post-06 are still at the 400 quid band.

Interesting stuff Alex. 275F gives you about 135C boiling point, so how much will that give you in real terms on the track?