Dicky

Sorry for the delay. Yep my 350 net appears to be to big in the 370 with lots of slack.

I would revisit Foundry Alloys and suggest to them that you will arrange for a third party inspection of the match, typically by AA, RAC or Nissan main dealer and if they agree with him then you will accept the wheels and pay his price. However they agree with you then he must pay for any third party costs and redo your wheels to your satisfaction. ps I'm sure there is equipment available in the car paint match industry which would show up any mis match. GET TOUGH and don't stand for shoddy service.

I'm pretty sure my 350 net doesn't fit my daughters 370

Flocking hell what a good idea!!!

Interesting. Isn't life just full of such pleasurable little mysteries to keep us from getting bored!!! I wonder if this could be a static build up problem. I'm thinking that the speedo "glass" may be in fact some sort of plastic and by touching it your transferring the static charge into yourself or grounding it, thereby removing some static field around the display (sounds quite Star Trekish me thinks). In sure Scotty would ask, "Does the display return to faulty as soon as you remove your finger or does it work OK for a while" ?

One has come to wish that one had not pointed this out to one cos now one notices every little dribble these incontinent little dickey birds deposit on ones pride and joy. As one is now retired and seeing as how one has lots of spare time and how one also has a nice apple tree in the garden, often frequented by these unreasonable little pests, ones deranged mind is now turning to revenge and thinking how one could climb ones apple tree to the very top, stay very still and quite then at the opportune moment CRAP ON THOSE LITTLE BUGGARS AND SEE HOW THEY LIKE SHOVELLING @*!# FOR A CHANGE......HA HA HA HA OOOOOOW HA HA. Wouldn't life be worth living again... if only!!!

Bastards like this should have their hands cut off, extreme I know but it would stop thefts overnight. Why should a responsible person who goes out to work and saves hard to buy the car they want have a nice experience ruined by people like this. We're way to lienient in this country to the extent where the honest person has to be vigilant, looking over their shoulder the whole time. Why can't we have the thieves on the back foot for a change. They are generally no hopers who if caught get a severe finger wagging or a little community service then go out and do it again. Imagine one of these arse wipes going into the local pub with a hand chopped off. His mates asks "bloody hell what happened to you" ....."well I broke into a car and nicked some plastic bits"..."and they chopped off your hand" ..."yep".... Local crime would fall to zero over night and the rest of us could get on with a peaceful life. Apologies for the rant and language but this sort of of thing really pisses me off. Hartley sorry for you young man!!

I would guess there could be several possible causes, and without seeing a circuit diagram I can only offer the following help. Given that the wiper motor is a high current device it will probably be directly driven by a relay which in itself wouldn't be directly influenced by your remote.I would guess the motor relay would be driven by a cpu output. If you leave the wiper mid travel and the rear wiper switch on when you switch the ignition off then I can only assume that operating the remote causes a transitory output from the cpu to momentarily operate the wiper motor driving relay. This could possible be corrected by placing a small value capacitor (0.1Mf) on the output of the cpu but If it worked would only be masking the real problem. My first thought would be to check the earthing or ground connections around the relevant cpu. The obvious answer though is to turn off your rear wiper properly before switching off the ignition Im not a qualified electronics expert but know a little (a dangerous combination ha ha) so hope it helps.

That sounds LOW to me. My car's an 04 and and I'm pretty sure at low speeds the gauge reads about 30 while at higher speeds it reads around 60, I'll double check. Be aware of the useless dip stick. I find I have to take several dips before I'm sure the oil level is ok. The dip stick seems to get smeared and it's difficult to tell on one reading. I'ts my belief that you could be fooled into believing your level is ok when it's in fact low!!

Unfortunately mine doesn't do it either. BUT WHERE CAN I GET IT!!

Is that Meguiar's Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax or the more expensive Boora Carnauba Wax Paste, or Simoniz, or Carnauba Gold ....(don't life get complicated)

Ok sounds like a plan, I'll go down the wax route first and see how it performs. It's going to be a bit of a buggar cleaning it off but hey ho IM RETIRED sonwhat else have I got to do!! Thanks for all your input chaps!

Do you know if you can get high temperature clear coat, similar to brake calliper paint? The wax idea sound good but think it might not last long given the temps involved

It's not just the plenum it's the ally parts at the front of the engine as well. Don't fancy painting/polishing them, was hoping once rubbed down they could be sprayed with some protective covering to maintain the ally look. Was wondering about clear coat spray but worried it might discolour and peel off.

My 350's been standing outside for the last few months and I've noticed that the aluminium alloy plenum and other aluminium engine parts are starting to discolour with small white dusty deposits. They seem to rub off with a bit of effort but pretty sure they'll come back. Anyone have the same problem and better yet found a solution to protect it ??

Well the center electrode of the plugs should have a flat end with reasonable well defined edges anyway, did you check to see if the gap had opened up in comparison with the others? When you say it looked worse than the others and sooty, that could just mean that its running a little rich at idle which could just be down to bad injector spray pattern, doesn't sound like a lot to worry about. I'm beginning to wonder if I'm a bit paranoid now Tricky, the sooty looking plug was what I found during servicing last year, at the time I thought the plug itself may have been malfunctioning because the cars performance seemed to improve following servicing (although their wasn't any rough running noticed Prior to servicing) This time I got concerned because the plug tip looked more disfigured or squashed down (only slightly) than the others (didn't know they were supposed to have a flatter tip). The electrode gaps on all plugs looked to be fine. I agree I might be jumping the gun here, think I'll run it for a few months and check it again to see how it looks. I'll also do a bit of research into checking injector operation as I don't know much about them (I'm an old school carb guy you see ha ha). Thanks for your input though young man!

Oops looks like I've some how posted this in the wrong section. If moderators can move it into General I'd be obliged. For Tricky Ricky... Well the centre electrode appears a bit flatter than the rest, not so much of a point. The plugs are the Platinum type. Hope it's not valve or seal problems. Wonder if it's worth putting Redex in the fuel to aid cleaning the injectors, although I've heard that Optimax fuel( which I always use) contains stuff that kerps the injectors clean. Can the injectors be tested in any way?

Just finished the cars service. Checked and cleaned the plugs and noticed something a bit odd on cylinder 4. The plug electrode tip (pointy bit) seemed a bit more worn down than any of the other plugs even though it had the light fawn colouring as it should. When I looked at the plugs last year cylinder plug 4 again look the worst for wear compared to the others in fact it looked a bit sooty so I changed it at the time. Just wondering if anyone might be able to suggest why one cylinder could be performing worse than the others.??

That sounds like a plan. Thanks young man!

Think I agree Strudul £600+ isn't worth it to gain an extra inch and adding air would be daft. Just spoke to her ref this post and she's starting to see the impractability of all this. If we go ahead it's going to be changing the springs idea if anything. She doesn't do track days or hard driving, it's all about the look! Thanks for your input and that of the other members but I think we know which way to jump now.

Thanks TT350....Yep she wants to lower it simply for the look. I have fitted 25mm spacers all round and it does make it look lower and chunky. But she's seen pics of lowered show cars with wide wheels etc and forgets the day to day practicality of such cars My previous posts were in response to fitting only springs as suggested by others. I hadn't thought of just replacing springs as I've only ever heard of people fitting coil overs although I don't yet know what's involved in that. Is it just a matter of removing the oem springs and dampers and fitting a coil over unit that consists of a spring and damper combined (with a nut adjustment for desired hight I assume)

Ive just read that the cars ground clearance is just under 4.96" and speed bumps are between 3" to 4" so it would seem that any of the springs mentioned by Strudel would either bottom out or be right on the edge of it. Starting to think that air/hydraulic ride height adjustment would be necessary if you wanted to fit lowering springs. How do those who have fitted Tein's find life out in the streets ?

Anyone got any idea how low is to low?

Thanks Strdul that's really useful info and a good starting point for me. Thanks for taking the time. I'll probably be posting more questions and I'd value your input and that of other members

Thanks Strudul definitely don't want to go to low, any idea how much they drop the car. PS given the other springs available I'm going to have to do a bit more research.