Dicky

No prob's young man, "KNOWLEDGE IS POWER" ------- Hey! do you think this means Bhp Thanks for everyones input by the way

My old heads spinning having read lots of uprev reports and I cant decide which way to jump as I’d hate to spend £400+ for minimal gains as the old piggy bank's a bit stretched just now Some reports seem to be positive and others not so positive. Most seem to report a smoother performance, sharper throttle response, more pulling power through the gears (does that mean it feels faster and goes faster in mid range) Others seem a bit disappointed. Can those who have had uprev done for some time now honestly say they can still notice the difference or have you got used to the new feel? Also has anyone had an uprev on a pre 2006 standard car with no mods, if so what’s your experience? Thanks in advance, Dicky

I used some black 3core flex and stripped out the cores to leave a pliable outer which I have pushed down between the front of the dash and the windscreen. Seems to work for me

because they are identical down to a very tight tolerance. So the only differance between the pre and post air boxes is the tube?

So how do we know it works in the same way as the 2006 air box? I was going to enquire about buying one but was hoping someone can vouch for it before I do.

What's the downside of the plenum spacer mod . I was thinking of getting one The reason I’m considering the plenum spacer is because of the uprev mod. I’ve been thinking about doing it for a while now but worried about the cost/benefit of it, I also need to find out how it will affect my insurance. Anyway, have you sold your plenum spacer? if not pm me and let me know what you want for it. Cheers Dicky

Anyone got feedback on the effectiveness of the RTCustomZ – 06 conversion kit ?

Dear Mr Cookbot, cookie, one was wondering if one might have one more of ones mirror folder cct for one to buy from one so one can fit it to ones car. If one has one and one could let one know, one would be eternally grateful. Dicky

What's the downside of the plenum spacer mod . I was thinking of getting one

YES I am a tit YES I need better glasses Yes I’ve wasted everyone’s time Yes I am at this very moment eating the biggest humble pie that Tesco’s has to offer! Cos I got the whole bloody brake thing wrong. There are brake cables going to each rear wheel and not just the hydraulic pipe (how I missed them I’ll never know, missing on both wheels as well) Anyway the brakes are as everyone suggested. So I stripped both handbrake assemblies down cleaned and lub’ed where necessary. I also noticed that both sets of shoes were “glazed†so rubbed them with rough sand paper along with the drum face, reassembled. and adjusted. Guess what the hand brake is now bloody marvellous now, holding even on my steep drive (its never done that since new!) Thanks once again and SORRY

Cheers young man and thanks once again to everyone youve all been very helpfull (hope you dont expect dosh for the advice though?). If my mate and I can’t sort it tomorrow I'll just have to get the wife to look at it . The little treasure!

Cheers Colin, That’s handy. Picture 6 seems to show the handbrake cable going to the wheel. I must of missed it on mine, god knows how though cos its big enough! Dicky

GOOD POINT! Although Id be surprised if they only adjusted the handbrake cable tension without adjusting the shoes on the wheels, I would have thought they should be done together (Not sure). I replaced the front and rear pads today and didn’t bother with the handbrake because I couldn’t see anything other than the hydraulic fluid flexi hose going onto the wheel. Didn’t see any handbrake cable as the workshop manual shows??? I'm getting on a bit and the old lamp light might be fading a tad. My mate's coming tomorrow to have a look as well (he was a fitter and is quite good with cars)

Will do if I take it in. By the way, the girl in the picture, can you tell her Ive got a big horn she can use to put those jeans on if she'd like! Steady on there lads a SHOE HORN I mean ---- some people eh

Cheers Chaps, Im quite confident in this dealers abilities. Ive used them for 7yrs now and always been spot on. Im no expert but after years of fixing my old bangers I can generally tell when the wool's being pulled. But take your point. Im jacking the Z up again tomorrow to take another look see. If I cant sort it I'll find the wife a little paper round or something to pay the garage bill. Thanks once again, Dicky

Cheers Alex, but why would the stealers quote two prices and say one type requires more bits to be removed? Also does your car have handbrake cables going to each rear wheel? Cheers Dicky

I assume there are two types of handbrake operating systems on the Z’s. Ive got a 2004 and the garage quoted two prices to adjust, £15 for one system & £64 the other (apparently bits need to be removed on the more expensive type) I thought the handbrake would operate shoes inside the rear wheel disc assembly via connecting cables. However when I took the rear wheels off today there were no cables going to the back wheel only a hydraulic pipe to the caliper. Does type 1 consist of cables from the handbrake to the rear discs to operate the shoes and type 2 a cable to some device that converts the mechanical action of pulling the handbrake on into a hydraulic pressure to operate the shoes? My workshop manual (USA cars) shows only the cable method. Cheers all

Any idea what the delivery cost might be to Newcastle on Tyne

I’ve had the same problem on a couple of occasions. Doing a flying start from the lights once and pulling away on a steep hill. On the first occasion the car had only done 15k or so and the second 40k. I very rarely pull away fast and would be surprised if told my clutch was on the way out . Over the years I’ve seen this mentioned before and as far as I recall most said it was normal?

I can beat that £306 with 250 excess Who quoted that one then young man

One of the few advantages of being an old fart is insurance at --- £358 with £350 excess

Drove the DB9 which was ok but while the Ferrari went round corners on rails the DB9 tyre squeal was pretty loud making it all a bit more intense . Got to say I would never pay the full price for this day out but at £100 approx (it was a prezzy so not quite sure how much was paid) it was worth it. I had wanted to drive the Porsche GT3 and Lambo but I think the Groupon guests get a reduced deal if I’m honest. Now wish Id gone for the M5 instead of the TVR, ho hum

Be aware if you’ve bought a Groupon voucher for a track day with Supercar Lifestyle at Blyton near Gainsborough that your choice of driving 3 from 11 supercars may well be limited. I went on Wed and there were only 5 to choose from, a Ferrari 430, M5, Jag XKR, DB9, and TVR Sagaris super sport. The group I was with complained but had to choose from the above (after a suitable quota of excuses, the Lambo's in the garage and they delivered the wrong brake pads for the Porsche GT3) . Mind you I enjoyed the day none the less but left a little disappointed. The Ferrari was outstanding and you certainly drive out of your comfort zone . I went around corners way above mine. While your brain screams BRAKE, BRAKE, the instructor's shouting ACCELLERATE. TheTVR was crap. It looked and sounded brill standing outside, but on the track the noise was extreme and the gearbox crap, I just couldn’t seem the hit the right gear (1st was about the only one I got first time)(might have been the driver though ) But on the other hand that cant be right cos Im sure I was the best driver on the day

Would I do it on a Zed..........you bet my hairy nutsack I wouldn't. I'll take that as a NO then eh!

Experimented with sorting the chips on my bumper and bonnet after reading some guidelines on the net. Not very successful on gunmetal Im afraid. Your supposed to first fill in the chip with a fine brush (art type) so the paint stands proud. Here’s the first problem. After filling in the chip and leaving it to dry (24hrs) the paint had sunk back (concave). I repeated this process 3x and still didn’t get the paint to be proud on all chips filled Your then supposed to rub the paint back to level, I used 1200 grit wet and dry, which is pretty scary when your bonnet starts to look all scuffed up . You then use a fine cutting paste, I used T cut followed by wax polish. The scuffing disappears but the chip marks are still quite visible (look like spots of lighter grey) So I have to admit FAILURE. Looks like a respray. Anyone had a go at spraying with these airosol cans filled with the right spec paint (Halfords do them Im told) or with a budget compressor and spray gun