Dicky

Cheers young man , many thanks. I can relax now and enjoy!

I bought a cover from ebay and it wouldn’t fit. Unfortunately left it to long to try it on and unable to return it. Another big prob is most aren’t suitable for seats with air bags

Can you confirm that with the engine running, you turn the mirrors inboard using the armrest switch, then turn off the engine and remove the key, that the mirrors move out again? The reason I want to know is that Ive had problems with the installation (not cookies circuit) traced back to bad connections on the larger of the two white plugs on the armrest control unit. Im just wondering if this is normal or if Ive still got problems.

Fitted red stuff pads about 2 wks ago, using the adhesive shims supplied and copper slip and mine are squeeking. Hope that further running in will cure the problem. I can also add that fitted the same pads/shims/copper slip on the last pad change with no squeeking at all.

Its rough and ready, but if its just to put the oil in the diff why not an empty plastic bottle with a bit of plastic tube taped in the top. You might loose a few drops but its a cheap fix.

Anyone know which one(s) is known to work Of the ones I found I was going to hand my hat on this one "TSB 04-040 Window Glass Doesn't Drop When Door Opens" found here http://www.350z-tech.com/wiki/index.php ... Door_Opens (not sure how to copy a link so just copied the web site bar at the top of the screen) Hope it helps

SORTED. Not due to cookies cct and didn’t need a reset, but due to a crap connector on the driver’s side window control unit PS: With regard to the window reset procedure. I found 6 published versions during my search including posts on this site, the Guides section and other places. All have differences some say the door has to be opened others that it should be closed, some say wind the window up first others down, some say 5 second pause top and bottom others no mention of times. Glad I didn’t have to use it cos it was all to confusing

Either everyone’s as stumped as me or bored with this problem (seems to be a pretty common problem from what Ive read) Been searching everywhere for most of the evening and found several procedures, all with little nuances but basically much the same. Wont bother with the worksop manual version cos I don’t understand the afore mentioned caution statement. By the way, some procedures say do the reset with the door open others with it closed. Anyone know which is right Cheers Dicky Edit: Just had a brain wave the last comment in the Caution section (blue) might be trying to say "DONT OPERATE THE DOOR SWITCH" ?

Got a problem on the drivers side window. When the door is opened the window drops about 60mm (instead 10mm) and doesnt lift again when the door is closed. Its a problem thats come about after fitting Cookies folding mirror cct. Dont believe its got anything to do with Cookies cct and more likley to be something Ive done when disconnecting the battery. Ive read the "Reset Procedure" in the workshop manual (below) and in the "Guides" section but was wondering if anyone can advise what the manual is trying to say in the last bit of the "Caution" below (highlighted). It doesnt make sense? Can you also confirm if by "Manual" lowering and raising of the window they mean keeping the up/down switch operated and not a quick flick operation for it to go up automatically? Resetting After installing each component to vehicle, follow the steps below. 1. Raise glass to the top position. 2. While pressing and holding reset switch, lower glass to the bottom position. 3. Release reset switch, and check reset switch returns to the original position, and then raise the glass to the top position. CAUTION: Do not operate the glass automatically to raise the glass to the top position. Do not operate the door switch is turning on.

Many thanks young man

Never heard of using a clay bar before? Whats that all about then, sounds a bit I was raised to only use T cut Is this "clay bar" a proffessionl weapon or can any Joe bloggs (or Dicky bloggs) use it and does it require much in the way of skill or technique? Do tell

All a bit Xmas tree ish if you ask me. Dont like the audi's either . But if its your fancy go for it

Many thanks young man

When you say drop the windows is that ok ? The manual seems to suggest a different method or doesnt it matter to much

Anyone had problems following disconnection of the battery? I know about the door windows from the manul and Im told by the garage that I'll loose the radio code. They also said I would loose any ECU software upgrageds that may have been installed from new as it would default to original settings. What do you think? Im about to fit Cookies folding mirror cct Cheers

I'm going to run mine into the ground cos I just never seem to get bored with it, even after 8yrs . Bloody hell I got bored with the wife long before that , so wouldnt think of selling it. I also think it still looks better than the 370z so no temptation there either.

I believe I’ve heard of them but not used them as yet. Might give them a call and price the spark plug job for comparison:thumbs:

West end

Always good to have wiggle room Yes it's pretty tight down there. Just making sure did you take off the strut brace and engine cover? There is about 6 brackets you can unbolt to move that big wire/loom out the way. It took me about 3 hours but I kept stopping for breaks cleaned the maf and airfilter. £75 isn't too bad though. No didnt take the strut brace off, the guide didnt suggest it nor did I think I'd need to although I can see the benifit now. I did take the black cover off and unbolted all loom securing brackets.It was the plug nearest the bulkhead on the drivers side that worryed me most, it looked impossible. I agree £75 isnt bad especially if I,d broken something.

I have always used Vic Young (South Shields) but they initially quoted £95, Rang a few places and Evens Halshaw in Sunderland quoted £75 so asked Vic Young to price match and they did. Job done!

Respect to all you intrepid spark plug changers. Got the car ready this morning and spent 1 hr just getting one coil cover removed and that seemed to be the easiest one on the drivers side of the engine. Followed the site guides which did say it was fiddly but they obviously meant FIDDLY. Considering the one I chose looked the easiest access I decided to call it a day, have a cup of coffee and pay the stealer his money. Apart from the very serious risk of breaking a finger nail I was worried I might break the long spout on the back of the coil cover or even a plug when trying to remove it. Anyway that’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it Dicky PS Stealer prices (me supplying the plugs) ranged:- £75.6, £94.8, £117, and £122.81 all inclusive of VAT. Guess which one I chose

BUGGER!!! thanks for your help

Looking to remove the rear side and indicator unit and the manual seems to suggest that the rear bumper be removed . Is this right and by the way would this be the required to change lamps or can this be done in situ somehow? I’ve removed the boot inners and cant see the back of the light unit suggesting the manual is right Dicky

This is my main worry. If I’m honest I would like to know the car is operating at its optimum but also believe I'm hoping for something dramatic to be experienced, typically, beating caterham cars off the lights, overhauling one of those boring 911's on the motorway while yawning and checking how my shares are doing. Unfortunately it doesn’t appear as if any of that will happen. Might be better to wait till I’ve won the £100 million on the lottery then buy a second hand 911 Cheers Dicky