Dicky

I agree oil starvation has to be the most likely cause whether it be due to low levels or not changing the filter often enough and possibly getting oil starvation in places. I've mentioned this one in a post somewhere else....and don't laugh now .....but I believe there's a chance it could be down to that bloody dip stick. I've checked my oil on a couple of occasions in the past and got a ok reading. But good job I'm boarding on obsessive compulsive cos checking it again and agin highlighted I had got it wrong. When I push the dip stick in I get oil smears that can be mistaken for the oil level if not looked at closley. Ok you can lol now but in the hands of a novice the dip stick can be a dangerous tool ha ha

I can never trust that bloody dip stick. Apart from its stupid shape I find it necessary to check lots of times before I'm confident I know where the true level is. It seems to pick up oil as you push it in which smears the surface and can look like where the level is. Cleaning it off and repeating usually gives me a different result. That's why I do it half a dozen times or so to be sure. Really sorry for your predicament. Isn't it bloody typical how these things happen just out of warranty! I would still push the dealer hard to contribute towards repair/replacement after such a short time of ownership. If they sold it to you with sufficient oil in it there's little chance it would have burnt off under normal usage in such a few weeks.

I would love to achieve a look like the red and silver ones but...........it's the number plate that ruins the look for me, where would you place it?

As Alex suggests check obvious problem areas first eg operating switches, wires hanging off, blown fuse etc If none of these then sounds like you've lost the 12v supply to it . Confirm by using a multimeter, set to dc volts, and clip the leads to the motor connections. Operate the window, you should read 12v. If not it's fuse checking time, locate and test with multimeter. If fuse ok then it's wiring diagram time. Using the car body metalwork as neutral or earth test the live connection from origin at points on its journey to the motor you should read 12v at each test point when the window switch is operated.Probably best to go to a half way point first so if you get 12v you've halved your work. If it was working before the body shop visit take the matter up with them.

+1

Will defo look into this signs business a little further. Sent off the "Notice of Impending Prosecution" today along with the most sickofantic begging letter I could write. I think I got all the favourites in, typically, Xmas spirit, I'm a pensioner, the wife doesn't luv me, how dashing they look in their uniforms and the killer...... I support policemans balls whenever I can ( not sure that one works to well though!) If they don't shed an understanding tear I'm sure they'll throw up when they read it. At least in some small way I''ll be getting my own back if that happens ha ha

Just pulling out from a long slip road onto the motorway, cars in front and behind when I noticed a gap in the traffic so accelerated through the slow and middle lanes into the fast lane. Had been concentrating on the cars ahead and behind me on the slip road and those I was about to merge with so wasn't looking out for cameras. Just got into the lane when out the corner of my eye I saw the camera van tucked up on the verge and then noticed the 50 mph sign. Got done for doing 58 mph! I've ran the road again since, only to realise I had missed two disc shaped 50 mph signs on the slip road. I suppose I should have seen them but when your watching out for traffic you can miss them. Bugger (squared) no (cubed)!

An easy way to check your altinator without using multimeters is to start thr car then turn on all electricals, headlights, heater, etc. Let the car tick over and note the brightness of your headlights ( best checked in the dark for obvious reasons). Then rev up the engine and you should see the brightness of your headlights come up a little. If you measured the voltage across your battery tou should see it rise from around 12v to around 14v or so but you should see an increase. If that's all ok then you may have something connected that isn't turned off when you remove your key from the ignition. Typically clocks and computer items will be maintained with a voltage supply but because they take so little from the battery it would take weeks to run your battery down. I would imagine (but not sure) that these items would take 1/10 th's of amps to operate if that. If you can get access to a multimeter with suitable DC amps range you can turn off the ignition then disconnect one of your battery leads and connect the meter in series with it. This would show you how much current is being drawn from the battery when the car is parked up. If you have say 60 amper hour battery fitted then when fully charged it will deliver 60A for 1hr or 30 A for 2hrs and so on, so you can get an idea of how long it would take to flatten your battery with what ever current is being drawn when ignition is off.

It's only slight. I just turn the radio up cos I can't hold onto the gear knob it's freezing cold having fitted one of those eBay round aluminium knobs.

Just tell us how old you are Dicky and then we will decide whether to forgive you or send you to Specsavers..!!! ;) I usually tell people I'm only 39 but just between you and me I'm really' Aheeem 66 so you can excuse me a bit PS....can I come out of hiding yet ???

I get a slight rattle from my gear stick under heaven acceleration. I read somewhere that this is normal. Is it true?

Oooooooo drove through there myself a couple of weeks ago (in a Zafira though .....Ughhhh) hope you didn't speed though a mate told me it's a 40 zone ( as I recall) and they have cameras in there

It is a nice offer and if you think its genuine then take him up on it. BUT if they guy couldn't undo the nut I'd not trust him doing my tracking/alignment as he won't take the rap for ruining my tyres if he then does the alignment wrong. Point taken! cheers

Sorry for being out of step here ( I am a lot older than most) but that looks an absolute dogs dinner to me, it's trying far to hard! I'm now going to ground now until the flack dies down ha ha

Well, rang the service manager this morning and complained that the only item to be "seized" as they put it was the track rod locking nut. Told him it took me 5 mins to loosen it using a cheap B&Q gas bottle that was almost empty. He seemed furious that the tech assigned to the job had not used heat and having just returned from hol would investigate and discipline the guy. Told him I wasn't looking for a dismissal only to make sure the guy realised that some people do check their work. Anyway he said he will carry out the tracking free of charge, which is good and of course I'll accept, but I think my main dealer days are done now!

Ooooo that was interesting, thanks

We should start a campaign to discredit " main dealer service history" as a neccerary when selling our cars. Some may be decent but I've had new cars for 40 odd years now and used several dealerships and to be honest I don't have many good words to say about any of them. Weve become slaves to the industry's marketing machine and our own worst enemy's. They guy who fixes your car is several people deep into the organisation and he doesn't have to face your wrath should he do a poor job cos some other dip will get it when you bring it back. With a smaller company the guy doing the work is generally the one who faces you if they f--k up.

By the way Alex, thanks for your pm the other day about this. You now know the score And why I no longer need your track rods. Thanks anyway, your a very helpful guy!

Your quite right! The cars 10 yrs old now anyway but apart from that I believe people are getting fed up with these main dealers as most either rip you or turn out substandard work. They display all their course certificates, hang a telly on the wall, offer the odd cup of coffee and charge the earth. I can see now how they can afford to do all that. I think " main dealer service history" has had its day. As it happens I have a garage in mind that comes highly recommended by a pal of mine. The garage specialises in bmw's but they said they could do most of my work but I may have to go back to Nissan dealers if specialised equipment needed. Going to see him Monday.

That's interesting Fluke. It seems to have been a positive experience then. I believe Abbey's guys trained them so did you get the feeling they knew what they were about, did they seem to pay attention to detail and behave professionally ? I assume you can recommend them then?

Lost the back end in mine once, going around a long slow corner, wasn't going to fast either. Lost confidence after that. But since fitting 20mm spacers all round my confidence level has shot up as the car seems much more planted. Might be worth splashing out!

Bummer! But on the positive side........Fancying a curry tonight.....any chickens going spare!

Asked the stealer to check and adjust the tracking last Thur. They rang later saying the N/S track rod was seized so couldn't do it and would have to order a new one in (£91.90) (total job including tracking £189.84) Lifted the car this morning and using a crappy old B&Q gas bottle, heated the locking nut up next to the track rod end, after which it slackened off no probs. Now are they trying to pull the wool or could there be another point that's seized which needs to be adjusted during tracking set up ?

You could have humoured me a little first, ha ha

Anyone used Abbey m/s northern agent "TDI North" to have the UPREV done? Been putting off doing this for ages for various reasons, insurance hassle, is the car fast enough already, what if the engine gets damaged etc Now thinking the cars done 64k so better sooner than later. I'd really prefer to get Abbey to do it but their a bit to far down the road from Geordie land. Got the plenum spacer, new exhaust and the dosh so if TDI are as good may just go for it. Not really looking to go faster but would just like to know that the performance is optimumised. By the way how do you stand if during the remap the engine/other gets damaged, is it down to me or are these companies insured against such things. PS: could have sworn I posted this a couple of days ago so if I did and it's landed in the wrong place......apologies