Dicky

See you again when you realise your mistake! Let's face it a tow hitch and a trailer solves your occasional transport problems. Or you could make them get the bus and take the bikes with them. I can lend you a bus pass if it would help ha ha

My cars 10 yrs old now and this looks interesting. Saw Mr China doing it a while ago on Wheeler a Dealers and forgot about it. Just googled it and found two local dealers who do it so will call them on Monday for prices and a chat.

No probs, good luck to your mum Keyser, must be a awfull worry for you all.

WoooW 10 months! you must be either a proffessional or a very competant enthusiast and have a shed load of tools to achieve that. Have you posted that work and if so have a short cut to it cos I'd like to read it. You make me feel a bit of a fraud. I think I'm a suitable candidate for a formula 1 team after just changing the oil and filter, never mind rebuilding a car like this. It scares me just looking under the bonnet and seeing all those nut, bolts, pipes wires and metal lumps. They seem to stare back and say "enter here if you dare cos we have the power to make your life a misery if you chance to touch us" ha ha ha.

No I didn't get the notion to grease them from the manual. Some time ago I had read a post from another member asking about a creaking noise from the back of the car. One of the guys who contributed to the thred posted a photo, a little like Keyser's showing the drop link with an arrow showing where to lubricate. I wish I could find it again but the Search facility doesn't seem to like me and I can't find it. To be fair I'm going back a few years now. I passed the picture on to the Nissan dealer and asked them to lubricate them. When I got the car back the squeak had gone and they gave me back the squirty grease they had used, 151 super grease. I did it again myself a couple of years ago and again the squeak departed the scene. Having read that thread I assumed everyone did this to get rid of the noise but obviously not. Anyway I appreciate everyone's input. So no one else does this, only me?

Well Keyser I'm confused now, unfortunately I don't get under the car to often and don't recognise much on your picture. By the way is that really the underside of your care! I'm amazed. It must have taken loads of work to achieve that finish. Whew! Anyway I've searched and searched for the picture I got off this forum which would have indicated exactly what I mean and I can't copy a picture out of the car manual onto this post via my iPad. If you have a manual then it's in RSU page 7 item 18 otherwise I will have to suspend this post until I can get a picture to post. I did the job myself about 3 yrs ago but the garage have done it since. As I recall the item I'm talking about was positioned vertically at the rear, one each side. The guide information said to push the small red tube used on these spray cans (like WD40 cans) into the side of the rubber surrounding the metal and lubricate there. Not much of a technical and clear explanation I know but a picture will be better

Possible, but I was wondering what others are using and having success with. I'm now a bit worried after what Keyser has said. I've read a lot about others with squeaky drop links and had assumed the fix was to grease them.

Buggar! Can't find the members post nor my copy of the pictures he posted.

I believe they are commonly know as the drop links and creak when dry, but looking at the manual (RSU-7) they call them Stabiliser Connecting Rod. I copied a picture posted by another member a couple of years ago (been searching for it but haven't found it yet. I'll keep trying) because it showed them very well. I gave the copy to my main dealer and ask them to lub them for me and they used 151 super grease. I'll come back when I track down that post again

Anyone recommend a decent lubricant for the metal to rubber drop links to stop them creaking. I've been using 151 Super Grease but it doesn't seem to las long. Also any good tips to get the lubricant in given the shortness of the supplied tube and getting the can into position

Well got as far as I could coolant changed approx 6L with the expansion tank, sod the block for now ( going to invest in a small compressor as gsexr suggested for next time) Engine oil and filter done no probs. Front belts changed, the originals were quite cracked and must have been as bad at my last main dealer service ( another clue they don't do all check list items). Not going to risk jacking the car up onto axel stands to do the gearbox and diff oil changes due to work surface I have outside, so the garage can do that (going to wait and watch them as well). My only disasters were.... Not tightening the front idler pulley lock nut s then wondering what the strange noise was when I stated up! ..... Leaving the heater hose vent plug off and wondering what all the smoke was coming out of the engine while warming it up to circulate the coolant! .....reversing into the garden gates and wondering what the high pitched squelch noise was while driving off the ramps. No damage fortunately. Never mind ...onward and downward, I can only get better ( I hope) ha ha

Good advice thanks. Unfortunately I don't have a compressor but I think Aldi do a cheap one so I'll look in there toorrow. Great fun, who needs holiday outings when you can be lying on your back with your hands stuck up inside an engine with release oil, coolant and engine oil dripping in your face. Can't beat it

Think I know why now! Got up early (I'm retired) and had a look. Access is virtually impossible lying on your back under th car, especially the left hand side drain plug. Looked like the air intake bits would have to come off and even then it looks difficult. Couldn't even find the front of engine plug so I think this ones for a garage (when I can find one I can trust) I may be wrong but looking at the drain plugs they look as if they've never been touched, no scratches, nothing, yet my main dealer said theve changed the coolant a couple of times. Unfortunately the only sure thing is to doit yourself, then you know it's done!

By the way, why you not draining the coolant from the block? Are members getting air lock issues when doing this. Slightly worried now as I'm doing the coolant today as well as the gearbox and diff oils ?

Doing the same jobs myself at the moment. Got the parts from Clarks, can't fault them, next day delivery and a bag of sweets thrown in the box for good measure (could have been an easter egg though) ha ha Did the engine oil and belts yesterday afternoon and doing the gearbox and diff today (so long as the back of the car doesn't fall of the axel stands again that is) It's amazing the little things you learn about the poor standard of work provided by the main dealers when you do it yourself. I found most of the engine undertray held on with self tappers and one of the engine top covers (with V6 on it) had been sheared and jammed in to look as if in tact. Will have to drill that out later and replace it. Makes you wonder if the actually do much more than change the oil and filters. A tick's easy to place on a service sheet!

Cheers Vlad, very kind of you

Cheers young man. I had thought it was an industry standard to have magnetic drain plugs. I'll look out on eBay for one too.

Your right and I'll certainly not risk it again. The ramps work fine.

By the way did the engine oil first but noticed the sump plug isn't magnetic, is it supposed to be ?

I did, one each side and stood them on blocks of wood. Just as well I looked before getting under cos having jacked and supported one side then jacked and supported the other they were lying over slightly and by the I looked and checked again they were at 30 deg and fell off just as I got the trolly jack out the way. Close shave. Not doing that again. Probably have to get the garage involved after all. It's a buggar when you don't have the facilities.

I've got to do my servicing on the back lawn as it's the only part of the plot that's flat. As you guess this brings with it problems if you need to jack the car up. I've used planks laid on the grass that I run along then up the ramps sat at the end, that works fine and gives good access for a lot of jobs. Anyway I can't jack the back of the car up safely to get it level when filling the gearbox up again. Anyone else have this problem and come up with some lateral thinking to overcome it. Get the garage to do it I hear you say....LOL

I've done 65k now so the clutch and flywheel will need changing soon and am getting prepared for that. That plus any bits of jobs I can be bothered to do myself. Anyone had a clutch changed and happy with the price and work. Been looking on the net and found Pitstop in Newcastle, their website looks good but there workshop's located in a run down place. Also J m imports in Cramlington and Mac the Clutch in a Wylam I've taken note of the others you've mentioned

Can anyone recommend a decent independent garage that I can trust to work on my Z?

Bought lots of servicing items and Wow what a service, ordered in the morning delivery expected next day, faster than I can move myself. Also provided good advice when I needed it. Will definitely use them again? By the way they didn't even need to pay me to say this either!

Never tried this but heard it works. If the spanner or socket is a bit slack put a layer or possibly two of aluminium foil over the nut then push your spanner or better still socket over it and onto the nut. The foil is supposed to take up the slack. Sounds plausible !