Dicky

PS Can anyone recommend a reliable company in the Newcastle/ Sunderland area?

My front tyres are showing signs of uneven wear even though my current stealer was supposed to have done this a few months ago. Are there any special equipment requirements when it comes to wheel alignment on the Z. When I first got the car I had feathering problems and the stealer I bought it from had to send it out to some other place who had laser tracking.

Thanks Jez, but I also spoke with an RAC engineer, two main dealer workshop foreman, an IAEA engineer and none thought the lip seal would cut into the crank nor did Vauxhall have any TSB's to suggest there has ever been an issue with oil seals cutting into the crank cause oil leaks. Anyway he never once suggested the problem was with the original seal only his replacement which had operated for way less miles. It's difficult to assess the wear in your picture Jez but mine looked like a more precise cut rather than a smooth ridge and several thou deep. I didn't mention it above but on the second occasion of stripping down to check the leak he didn't replace the leaking oil seal, he just covered the internal and external faces of the seal with sealant. Why would you do that. He must have noticed the groove and tried to bodge it, otherwise he would have hit me with the problem then. None of it adds up! Below are two statements taken from an article I read on how seals work.(by the way I meant the groove was around the circumference not the diameter in my rant above). AND ENGLAND ARE OUT OF THE WORLD CUP AGAIN AS WELL. Does god care about me at all! HOW DOES THE SEAL WORK? The automotive radial lip seal works by creating a thin layer of oil between the sealing lip and shaft journal. Capillary action causes the oil to seep between the lip and the shaft, which results in the oil lifting the sealing lip clear of the shaft. This thin layer is retained, and prevents leakage of the oil past the sealing lip. It is important to ensure that the seal is fitted square in the housing and perpendicular to the shaft and that end float and radial shaft run out is not excessive. LUBRICATION The sealing lip of the oil seal should never be in contact with the shaft. If this were the case, the seal would wear out in a matter of hours, therefore precaution must be taken that the seal is correctly lubricated prior to fitting. If this lubrication is not present, burning of the seal lip can occur, which could lead ultimately to seal failure.

This was such a precise cut in the crank it could only have been made by the spring and it was the seal he had fitted that he was blaming not the original seal. I would expect the viton to wear considerably faster than hardened steel or cast iron if that's what the cranks made of. If your right and some wear does take place it must be very very marginal and after a couple of hundred thousand miles or so. In fact I've read how seals are supposed to work. If I understand correctly the viton doesn't even touch the shaft because of capillary action of the oil which causes the lip to lift slightly on a cushion of oil and that's presumably one of the reasons the spring is fitted.

It's Bloody frightening isn't it!

Ha ha ha ha, good in

This guy is so stupid that before getting his brain into gear he told me the seal I was looking at was the one fitted by the sacked mechanic. Incidentally it was covered in sealant, internal and external surfaces. I asked him, why would you strip the car down again on the second occasion and not fit a new seal if that's where the leak was. Why would you just squirt loads of sealant at if you didn't already know what the fault was and were trying to bodge it up in the hope it would last for a while then you could blame something else. What troubles me though is how many poor people get fooled by such lies and just pay up!

Anyone know if my 2004 GT has a pollen filter fitted and if so where it's located. Can't seem to find any reference in the manual?

This is a little long winded but you'll get a laugh. Had an oil leak on my wife's Zafira. Took it to my local garage who said it was coming from the crank shaft oil seal. It was a big job, gear box out, steering bits disconnected, clutch out etc etc. They did the work, I paid the bill. A few days later it was still dropping oil so took it back. The owner rang a day or so later saying he'd finished, I asked what the problem was, he said bad workmanship and he'd sacked the mechanic who did it. A few days later it was still dropping oil. Booked it in again and after the full day the owners son called to say it was finished. This is where it gets really unbelievable. The son said the oil loss was because the air intake wasn't on correctly (it was as I had fitted it just a day earlier and was certain it was on correctly) this caused the engine to run rich causing additional pressure in the oil system and pushing oil past the seal. ha ha ha ha Next day oil was still dripping (of course it was) so took it back and told the son I wasn't a complete dope so to do the job again and get it right. Two days later the owner rang in the morning saying the seal had scratched the seal housing and how this was a common problem on Vauxhalls. I went down to the garage to look at it and the seal had no metal showing anywhere, in fact it had a rubberised coating. I told him to take the seal out and check the crank for damage in case his sacked moron had used a hammer and screwdriver to remove the original seal. An hour later he rang again, to say the crank was damaged, so down I went again. The end boss of the crank over which the seal fits and against which the seal lip acts had a perfectly concentric groove in the metal all around its diameter right where the rubber (viton) of the seal sits. Get ready cos his next statement is being entered into the forums "MOST PATHETIC BULLSHIT STATEMENT" competition. What's caused that I asked ? " the groove's been caused by the rubber lip seal" WHAT! you mean the rubber has cut through hardened steel? " Yes I've seen it before and my mate who works for Vauxhall says it's a common fault" Is that so I said. So nearly all the Vauxhalls in the world are dropping oil right now because of rubber seals cutting into the steel, is that what your telling me"? Yes he said. F--K off I said, are you for real! Isn't it more likely that the seals been fitted incorrectly exposing the st st spring located directly behind the lip seal to the crank face. In fact I took the spring off the seal and it matched perfectly the radius of the groove. No he insisted the rubber lip has caused the groove. F--k off I said. Anyway the the argument carried on into the next day when I told him unless he replaced the crank I would hire a low loader, take it to a main dealer for their report and would get an IAEA engineer as well to produce a report I could use in court. He rang today still insisting it was the seal that caused the damage but he was going to fit a reconditioned crank but expected a contribution from me. F--k off I told him, this is all down to you otherwise hire yourself a brain dead legal team cos no one with a brain would represent him. I also told him I wanted a copy of all invoices and all data relating to the crank replacement so I can check it all out with his suppliers. Anyone been offered a better lame excuse ???

It's probably been posted before but just in case anyone gets the same problem. Central locking and alarm arming from the key fob went off today for no apparent reason. Pressing the lock/unlock had no affect. Worked ok when using the key though, apart from the alarm going off when I unlocked it again though. Anyway fitted new battery to the key fob but still the same. The fix was to disconnect the battery negative for a minute then it worked ok. Hope it helps someone

Puncture fixed and cost £10, no attempts to sell new tyres and no probs at all. Will stick with these guys as they seemed up front. I had picked up a wood screw which looked remarkable like the ones I'd recently been using to hang up some items in my garage. It couldn't have been me who left it lying around and must have been the wife or the dog, he's a little tinker is that dog

Sounds to me as though the heat is exceeding either the motor or it's control devices max operating temp limit. More likely to be any solid state control device in the circuit. The motor is more robust and I wouldn't have thought that sort of temp would affect it operation. It could also be mechanical due to expansion. I've got no idea what's involved in the window control circuitry nor in the mechanical mechanism but I'm sure UK temperatures shouldn't be a problem. Not much help I know but I am aware of the effects of temperature on electronic circuitry.

Had a look at Dynaplug on their website and youtube also read some reviews on Amazon. It looks like a solution but Im always a bit sceptical about these quick fix or easy to use things you see on tele shopping or at exhibitions. It may well work but I think I would only use it as a get me home solution. I would always be worried about driving a performance car with this type of tyre repair. Thanks for the input thoughTinyflier

Thanks guys, that side wall issue raised by AndyG8nby is the one I recall hearing in the past to get you to fit a new tyre. It's a bugger that you can't trust anybody these days (or is it just me getting old nd nattery)

I admit I'm a bit behind the times having only just discovered they don't fit inner tubes any longer. However I've got a puncture on one of the rear wheels and was wondering if they still can fit the rubber bungs to repair the hole? Just forearming myself cos some of these tyre places prefer to sell a new tyre rather than repair the old one. If they insisted on fitting a new one then I would probably have to spring for two new ones on the back, bugger! Any advice ?

Agree

Good drawing but rub out those useless front reflectors, we've had enough of them thank you very much ha ha

I'm just comparing my 350 GT that I have ( didn't know there was a 350 Nismo ) to the 370 Nismo. I thought the 370 design was a bit of a backward step but this Nismo goes even further back IMO Your right I am getting old but age doesn't dull your appreciation of beauty and sleek looks (ask Rolf Harris ha ha). Yeah it's a case of horses for courses but If a new 350'was standing beside a new 370 Nismo I'd pick up the keys to the former.

I read somewhere that the gear lever is prone to rattle under acceleration but I can't remember hearing it prior to fitting a new knob. I've since fitted a cheap eBay jobby (the plain round alluminium ones) and love it. It's better but s till get a bit of rattle but can live with it.

Am I the only one who feels more than happy I've still got my 350 after viewing this new car. IMO it's trying to hard, has boy racer written all over it and to me harkens back to the styling the Japaneses used to believe us westerners like. Looks like something the Chinese might produce for the western market. Yes you've guessed I HATE IT and will be hanging on to the better designed, more sleek and desirable 350. NEW ISNT ALWAYS BETTER

What's the mark down the drivers door? Is it a reflection or a graze? I'm afraid I would not have agreed any money based upon a back street garage. I would have taken it to the main dealer to get sorted out as he is at fault and should pay the full cost, if not put it through the insurance, you won't loose NCB cos it's his fault. I had to adjust my bumper a few years ago when mine got caught on the ladders in the garage, as far as I recall it was quite easy.

And here's me thinking that fitting a new K&N filter and plenum spacer gets me membership of the forums elite performance moders. I'm now going out to kick my car and may never lift my head again. RESPECT !!!!

That's worth knowing, thanks

Well that's interesting. I've read post where members have talked about dual-mass flywheels but didn't know what they were. I can see now the good sense in changing it with the clutch. Thanks for your help, I'll defo be changing it when the clutch finally lets go.

I posted a couple of weeks ago regarding how many miles members are getting from their clutch and quite a few are getting high milage. I've also read posts in the past about changing the flywheel along with the clutch as a matter of course. Is this really necessary if your a steady driver or are the Z flywheels only good for the life of a clutch. Changed the clutch in the wife's Zafira last week, admittedly it's not in the same league, but her flywheel looked fine after 80k miles so left it in. Just thought I'd ask because I'd hate to buy a new flywheel only to find the old ones ok