Dicky

Anyone done this? Did you use a fuel additive and was it any good or did you take them out and clean them manually. Is there a procedure available anywhere ?

The continuing story ..... Well I visited the garage to see how Betsie my sick 350 was doing and nearly fell over when I saw her in the corner of the garage, all forlorn and abused with the front of the car removed, wire looms all over the place disconnected plugs and sockets and air con radiators tied up out of the way etc etc. To be fair they did explain they wouldn’t normally do this but due to the age of the car and the potential for seized connections and rusted bolts it was the safest option to leave as much connected as possible and tie it out the way, fair enough I thought! The cause of the misfire appears to be down to a burnt out inlet valve on cylinder 4. The edge of the valve had burnt away as had the valve seat. The garage recons this was down to a faulty injector causing a build up of carbon on the valve and seat preventing it from dissipating heat efficiently. Apparently the timing chain had also jumped a link but fortunately hadn’t caused further damage. For those like me who didn’t know, and because inspecting the timing chains etc is a major job, apparently you can hear the timing chains “slapping”when the engine is first started up (which disappears after a short while) indicating the chains and tensioner need attention (DON’T IGNOR THIS) As it happens I had posted a forum question earlier last month asking why cylinder 4 spark plug always looked slightly burnt and sooty when doing the annual service, now I know and here again (DON’T IGNOR THIS). Due to the cost to repair, lack of good engineering companies in the area, plus the additional cost of spares made a replacement low milage engine look the best bet. Unfortunately Zmanalex was out of stock and because I wouldn’t trust anyone else to buy from and because the bottom of the engine looked pristine, I finally decided to buy a low milage cylinder head and injector from Alex and take the hit of any additional expense. Alex is a deep well of knowledge and so helpful when your in the depths of despair (a canny lad in Geordie) So now I’m waiting for my parts to arrive and hoping that the mechanic building the engine back up again can remember where the multitude of the bits and pieces all go back.

Apparently the exhaust valve is the culprit here. Garage carried out a leak down test and found air was pouring out the exhaust pipe. Cylinder head coming off on Monday but up to now it’s costing circa £3k 😭 Anyway I’ll post exactly what’s been done for future reference

Well poor old Betsey is seriously ill just now. The garage rang to say one of the cylinders is low on compression and the cause could be one of several things, valves, injector or a piston leak problem. Just waiting for repair estimates now but the service manager did say it will be costly. Think I’ll remind him I’m just a poor old pensioner with a bad back and a sore leg....it’s worked before😂

just out of interest, if you pull off the long nose part of the coil pack to reveal the long spring assembly inside, there’s a 20mm ish long item which looks like a fuse inserted in series with the spring. Anyone know what that is and it’s function in life?? Might cut one open to see what else I’d involved insde.

Hi Olly, I tried your suggestion but it seemed the engine note changed on all of them so I was unable to confidently say which one was duff. I then pull out each coil pack in turn, leaving its plug connected pushed a spare plug into the coil pack, grounded the plug body and turned the car over. Would you believe all 6 produced a spark???. I then bought and fitted a full set of Platinum NGK spark plugs, boxed it all up again and BUGGAR it’s still missing. Now thinking it may be an injector fault or something more obscure plus I’ve ran out of enthusiasm so it’s off to the garage on Mon where their diagnostic computer will hopefully highlight the fault. It may cost a few quid but I’ll get that back by getting the wife a paper round for a month or two 😂😂😂 Thanks again for your input though.

Thanks Olly, to be able to get to the coil pack plugs and stand half a chance of removing/replacing them on 2,4&6 I had to remove the air intake pipework (maintaining the maf) the other side was better but not much. Then trying to listen to the engine note when it’s running lumpy and hunting all the time was bordering on impossible. I was going to order a full set from Alex as it happens but he was out of stock. Rang Euro car parts and they have a decent make for £30+vat so may follow your lead.

Thanks Kieran👍

Thanks Olly, it’s been a bit of a sod trying to listen to engine note when it’s running lumpy and hunting all the time. I was going to order a full set from Alex but he was out of stock. I’ve just rang Euroncar parts and ordered a full set of none budget packs for £30 ea + Vat. Hears hoping👍 Thanks again

Following a run out the other day the engine suddenly started to run lumpy. Code reader showed “multiple misfires”. Contacted ZMANALEX who advised I pull each coil pack plug in turn and listen for a change in engine note. I found it difficult to notice a change on any cylinder but eventually thought it might be cylinder 6 (note sure though). I ordered two used coil packs from him just in case. While waiting delivery read this guide https://my.prostreetonline.com/2019/02/22/p0303-nissan-3-5l-how-to-test-vq35-ignition-coil/ explaining how to measure the resistance between the coil pack 3 pins to determine good/bad. Have to admit I couldn’t quite get my head around how the guy assessed the measurements, so measure the resistance between pins myself. First I noticed the the pins are polarity conscious ie placing the red +ve lead on pin 1 and measuring to pin 2 produced a totally different reading to if I placed the black -ve lead on pin 1and measured to pin 2. Completely different to to the written guide above?? Measured all 6 coil packs first with Red multimeter lead then the black lead and all six produced the same readings, so I’m assuming all are ok as the engine wouldn’t run if the were all duff. Anyone gone down this road before and can contribute because I’m beginning to fear it may be injectors or duff plugs or even leaks as raised in the article.

Next service due soon as the rain up here stops and I’ll post one

Cheers young man 👍

Hi anyone know if there is a current discount code for club members?

You could be right because I’ve googled the problem and that was one of the possible causes. My only concern is that this has been noticed during several annual services and always No 4 cylinder. It would be strange if this was the only plug where my torque tench failed each time! Thanks for you input though

I do my own annual service and for the last few years I’ve noticed that cyl 4 plug always seems black on the nose and with electrode wear, all other plugs as fine. Can anyone shed light on this ?

By the way my clutch is still giving good service in 2021

Well I’ve done all that and still drawing 80mA? My battery has been going flat recently and doesn’t last more than a couple of weeks after being fully charged. Battery must be duff as 80mA draw from a 65A/hr battery should last just over 4 wks. Bought a Yuasa replacement this morning, comes with a 5 yr guarantee, so let’s see how it stands up. Thanks for all input

Yeah that sounds more like it, 0.3 mA sounds a bit low maybe should be 30mA Did you have anything on at all, typically the alarm? and did you allow it to stand a while before measuring? I assume the various computers will remain powered but other than that I can’t think what what else i think I’ll pull a couple of fuses to see why I’ve got 50mA more drain than you .

Anyone measured the current taken from the battery with the engine off, and everything else turned off. Im getting 80 mA (0.08A). My battery is probably on its last legs but just interested to know what the norm is and what others are measuring.

Hi Mikey_S I’m assuming your post dated March 3 was 2021. If so I apologies for the delay in responding, I don’t log on very often these days. The issue I posted about I’ve also experienced driving into my garage. The smell I’m certain is from the clutch and I’m fairly certain it’s due to over revving as I try to release the clutch pedal slowly so as not to go in to fast, same when reversing up my Fairley steep drive. if I reduce the rev’s I don’t get the smell. Don't get any noises from the clutch pedal nor experienced any sponginess, but if I did, I’d suspect the clutch release bearing for noise and possible heat from the clutch heating the fluid in the cylinder causing the sponginess. Hope that helps

A pal of mine (let’s be kind and say he’s almost as tight as a fishes arse ) with a BMW 330 has had Delinte D7 tyres fitted at circa £50 ea and swears by them. You wonder how safe such cheap tyres would be so was wondering if anyone here has tried them?

Cheers.....and now I really can call you YOUNG man!! ....58 ? Just a mere slip of a lad, just getting started

Thanks Davey, Appreciated!

Thanks young man, Appreciated!