Dicky

My batt was flat after a 2wk Hol so measured the current drain with the alarm activated at 0.7A. So as far as I can see if the batt is a 52A/hr it will be flat in 52/0.7 = 74 hrs, not very long

Found this on You Tube regarding TB cleaning. You may have seen it but for the less well informed like myself I've posted it for those about to do the job. One of my fears was weather to move the throttle plate or not, I used my finger but the video suggests an alternative and possibly safer method. Hope the link works.

I would have thought any fumes from the filler cap would travel down wind of the driving seat as you drive along? Wouldn't it be more likely to be coming from the engine bay if you can smell it while driving, unless you only smell it when stopped?

PANIC OVER! Took the car to the local dealer (before attempting the socket manoeuvre) who brought out their lock nut set and job done. Got them to leave the locking nuts off and replace the original wheel nuts. Not going through this again. The guy said if thief's want your wheels, locking nuts won't stop them. Thanks to all who contributed, your all going on my Xmas card list!

Samsniss350/Rock-Steady..............does the socket tend to last out for all 4 wheels ie can you get it off again and use it again or would I need a couple of sockets?

Thank goodness the dealer can sort this. I had visions of maybe welding something to the locking nut to get it off but destroying the wheel in the process. Or having to drill into it and using extractors to get them out, costing big bucks. Once this is sorted I'm going to leave the locking nuts off and put the original wheel nut back on. The cars garaged all the time and I really leave it anywhere. Also everyone has alloys these days.

Anyway my panic level has dropped significantly following all your input and there seems to be options which I'll explore tomorrow so thanks all

Well I did disconnect the battery and of course the throttle motor, but as KyleR suggests above so long as your careful moving the valve plate is no problem as it springs back to exactly the same position. By the way the benefits of doing this clean are definitely noticeable. The car feels more responsive, seems smoother and pulls harder Well worth the the effort. It's an easy job and can be done in an hr or so. It took me longer cos I fiddled on a bit to much (retired you know)

Well tried the 19mm socket trick but no success. The locking wheel nut is round and the 19mm skt wouldn't go near it nor would the 20 mm. As far as I can see you would need to really hit it with some force to get the socket on. Anyone know if the RAC carry keys or some gizmo to get these off. There must be someone somewhere as daft as me!

But how would they get the old ones off and would It wreck the wheel ? I'm going to ring the dealer tomorrow.

Fitted new rear drop links last week and just noticed I've lost my locking wheel nut socket. Think I must have left it on the last wheel I refitted and then driove off. Searched the street, drains, car, garage , everywhere but no luck. Anyone know how to get around this. Is it possible to get hold of a new one or are they unique to the locking wheel nut?

During the TB clean I noticed the intake to the plenum looked a little dirty as well so is there any benifit in cleaning this out as well other than just knowing its clean?

Well what was all the fuss about. T. B. cleaned, calibrations done and everything works, job done. I must have done something wrong. Watch this space.

Well done Alan hope mine goes as well!

Well since I couldn't wait any longer for a fellow TB explorer to answer I decided to just go for it as you can't successfully clean the area that really needs cleaning without moving the throttle plate. Found that the plate is spring loaded so gently pushed it out the way then cleaned and polished the area lying under the valve plate when it's closed. I've now reassembled everything and about to carry out the calibration procedures. The guys who do this every day must be laughing their c--k's off at my trepidation but it's a bit worrying for beginners who don't know what to expect or how to recover should something go tits up. Anyway here goes cos I'm going in! Now let me think , was it pedal to the floor 6 times first or was it switch on then off, kick the front tyre ,then pedal to the floor....buggar

Just removed it and started the clean. The valve plate is closed at the moment and I would like to move it a little to clean the point at which it closes. Two questions.... 1) If I move the valve plate manually out the way then move it back to closed position can I damage any internal gearing between the valve plate and the motor 2) in moving the valve plate am I going to get horrible problems when calibrating on completion All advice from veterans most welcome!

Cheers young man. All these computers and calibration procedures are bad enough but when different names are given to the same item......WELL I CAN DO WITHOUT IT. It's bad enough ordering a coffee these days what with all the different milk, coffee, sugar, and cup choices not to mention all the bloody flavourings you can have on top. You my have guessed I've reached that time in life when moaning becomes one of your only pleasures ha ha

Can someone confirm that the CEL (Check Engine Lamp) referred to in the forum calibration procedures and the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) referred to in the Workshop Manual procedures are in fact the same warning lamp. I copied these procedures off the forum a while back but notice that the CEL lamp is refered to while my copy of the Workshop Manual refers to a MIL lamp? Just want to be sure I'm looking at the right indicator. LIFES TO COMPLICATED

Oh that sounds like a plan! However if the Sh-- hits the fan I've got a fall back position!

All these calibration procedures do my head in. I come from an age when all you had to do was change your points, set the tappets and gap your spark plugs. Job done ha ha

Cheers young man í ½í±

Which option Zhorno 1) & 2) or just 1)?

Going to clean the throttle body. Having done that am I right thinking you then have to perform 1) "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" . 2) "Idle Air Volume Learning" . OR Are there other cals to do OR Is 1) above the only one thats necessary???

Defo give it a go but I'll need to read up on how to carry out the recovery actions ie throttle relearn and any others I may need. Hate doing these things as they always seem to go wrong, anyway Onward and downward is what I say!

More dosh for the stealers though. The cars 10 yrs old now and I've decided to do all the servicing I'm able to myself.