Dicky

No. It's delivered as a printed circuit board along with components and you build it yourself. You then insert it into the wiring to your existing rear brake light ( the LED one at the top of the rear windscreen) and it makes it flash( programmable) when you hit the break. It flashes about ten times then goes on solid and doesn't flash again until after 7 s otherwise it comes on solid again. It's like the one in Pjf1985 clip above

So you were able to view the video because I'm unable to (bloody technology or maybe daft me). So your not impressed, Oh well each to there own. I was going to check if the were legal but not got around to it yet. The kit only cost around £8 so not much lost if I have to remove it

Just bought and fitted a Velleman mini kit, 3rd brake light flasher. I'm behind the times so your probably all miles ahead and already no about them. Anyway it causes the 3rd led brake light to flash before turning on fully. I find it a great idea since it gives added warning to anyone behind and let's face it most cars end up behind the Z! Hope this video clip works as I've had a bit of a struggle. If it does work it may appear that the leds flashing is a bit blurry, but that's due to the limitations of my iPhone camera. The flashing is in fact nice and crisp. trim.5C7E5965-0D13-411D-B07F-43595CD7A825.MOV

Take it your no further forward? I'm no expert but if it were me I'd have the front up on ramps and check all steering linkages for any play, suspension units for the same and as Tricky Ricky suggest check security of the sensor and associated bits. Good luck

The symptoms do lead you to think it's happening when the wheel to wheel arch gap is reduced IE mounting a curb, braking, both cause the gap to reduce. If the wheel isn't catching the wheel arch could it be catching the wheel arch liner, the garage may have had them off to do the work. I assume the problem was not evident before you had the compression bushes replaced, if so I would say the garage who did the work are responsible to sort the problem Not much help I know but it helps getting a reply even though it's light weight.

Anyone know the cheapest way to buy a new master key (the one with the remote buttons) as the stealers want £208 along with the car and all its other keys into the garage to programme it / them.

PM sent young man. I live in Denton Burn Newcastle

I'm sorry but I really do think the above diffuser looks absolutely hideous. But as they say beauty's in the eye of the beholder.

Don't know which of the clips was the SMF but the first clip sounded louder to me. If it's as bad in the cabin I couldn't be doing with it. I'm no expert but I would always stick with the design engineers choice unless you get some meaningful performance/ other gain. I assume the SMF gives a weight and possibly cost advantage but seems to fall down on increased cabin noise, clutch control and potential shock loads to other components.

Another reason I fitted 20mm spacers all around is because I spun the car one day not long after I got it. Admittedly it was a bit wet but I was following a citrone around this long bend, matching his speed when the car suddenly flip around. After fitting them the car feels so much more planted and trustworthy and I've never spun again even on the same corner travelling faster. I would now hate to have to take them off for any reason.

Cheers Tricky, will do

I had mine fitted for cosmetic reasons F25/R20 they push the wheels out giving a wider stance which helps the wheels appear to fill the arches better Yep +1

Thanks Tricky, what you say makes sense, however went along to National Tyres this afternoon and they say the spacers would make no differance so long as the tracking is right. Problem is you just don't know who to rely on, go to three different tyre fitters and you'll probably get three different diagnosis.

Just been looking around on the net and find that lots of different cars suffer the same problem and their owners, like me are puzzled because all car components are oem, they've had tracking and wheel alignment checked and found to be ok. So what's going on? What's the point of having mechanical steering geometry settings adjusted spot on when the tyre itself is in the wrong position on the road! Is it possible to ignore manufacturer settings and make mechanical adjustments to get the tyre itself sat correctly on the road?

Thanks ianphampton for your reply. My tyre wear is on the outside of both front wheels and I'm concerned because it won't be long before I have to get new tyres and I don't want to scrub them off straight away. This wheel alignment malarkie is quite complex as far as I can gather and I can't find anyone in the Newcastle or North East who is expert in this field. If anyone in the north east knows of a place I'd appreciate it if you would let me know.

Can anyone say for sure when fitting wheel spacers if it adversely affects the wheel alignment causing uneven tyre wear, ie is it essential to have full wheel alignment carried out after fitting them? I fitted 20mm spacers all around some time ago and have noticed uneven tyre wear (wearing faster on the outside of each wheel) but not sure if it was there before I fitted the spacers (dopey I know). I've had the tracking checked recently at the main dealers and another tyre fitting establishment and both say the tracking is spot on. Would it be better to get full wheel alignment done. By the way the guy at the tyre fitters ( his own business) said you should have your tracking checked annually. Does that sound like good advice.

Well there you go,Im so much more cleavour than I was when I got up this morning! If knowledge is power then I'm just about ready to tell the wife I just won't wear my new pinny to do the housework ha ha

Interesting. But for the less well informed want are offsets and what do they do for you? I have considered new wheels and would never have thought about "offsets". Are they something to do with the hole to wheel nut alignment?

why not try cleaning the throttle valve. I did the this a couple of weeks ago and can't believe how much more eager and responsive the car feels and it seems to pull harder too. I also noticed an improvement after fitting a high flow K&N air filter.

Cheers both. Thanks for the advice.

Oh just a couple of additional thoughts. Can you get Hammerite in spray cans or is it brush on and did you need to rub down with something first to create a key ?

Thanks for that GIXXERUK. Hammerite sounds like a good choice, it's a harder paint I believe ? By the way how did you retain the Porsche logo. Was it a transfer added after painting?

OK There currently dark grey and she wants them sprayed Red

Going to spray my daughters brake callipers and need a little advice please. Her current callipers appear to be stove enamelled and in good condition, so does this sound like the correct procedure. My plan is to clean them first, then scuff them up a little with wire wool to provide a key, then spray them with the colour then finishing off with clear lacquer. Do you think I need to spray an undercoat as well?

What I can't get my head around is why the clean makes such a huge differance (did on mine anyway). I couldn't say mine was that dirty, certainly not full of crud? There was a small amount of crud just under the throttle plate at the closed position but not enough to cause closed position probs. Anyway the differance it's made to the drive is huge. How cleaning a small amount of crud off can make such a differance on what must be at least a 3" apature is beyond me, unless it causes turbulence to the air flow and hence reduced performance? Anyone know why the clean has such an affect?