Dicky

Been to Stagshaw this morning to firm up prices for the W brace, if I supply the parts he recons it’s will only be a couple of Hrs Labour at circa £80/hr so not bad. Now to find a decent price for the kidney joints and bolt set.

can anyone confirm that all that’s required for the W Barack job is

A W brace 

2 kidney joints

 A bolt set ??

and if you know where to get a decent price for these I’d like to know if you don’t mind.

Thanks 

On 11/06/2022 at 14:07, STmichael said:

Cheers. It’s not that far to go if I wanted it going and like someone said being a 4x4 place they may have a little more expertise on rust protection. Let me know how you get on 👍. 

The guy’s name is Josh, nice guy. His ball park was £550. They keep the car for about a week while they fully steam clean (must be stem cleaned) the underside, then after drying time treat with a rust inhibitor, then apply the Dinitrol to the underside and box sections.

There were several Landrovers on their forecourt and a six week waiting list. Had a look at one on the ramps in process and it all looked good. I got a good feeling about him, his guys and the place and felt they’d make a good job. I’m booked in for beginning of August.

By the way they can replace the W brace and kidney joints if required, don’t have a price for that as yet.

18 hours ago, STmichael said:

Stagshaw was the other company I was thinking of. I live near Darlington so that would probably be my preference but it is my sons car so would have to talk him into getting it done. I have mentioned it to him to get it done at the back end of the year once he has had his fun over summer. 
where about in the region are you from? There does not appear to be many members in this neck of the woods. 

Im in Newcastle. My W brace needs replacing as well so I’ll ask Stagshaw if they can do that while there on. The guy to contact is called Josh and at the moment they have a 6wk ish waiting list. I’ll let you know what his quote price is when I visit on Monday.

PS..just made contact with Autospray Darlington. The guy I spoke to said he did mainly  Waxoyl but could do Dinitrol but was unsure of the Dinitrol costs. He gave a ballpark of £500 but was open to a discount if more cars involved.

Having talked to the two companies mentioned, I got better vibes from Stagshaw.

On 07/06/2022 at 13:13, STmichael said:

I come from the North East and have briefly looked into this as am thinking of doing the same come winter time when the car in not in use. Autospray in Darlington do Dinitrol and there was a 4x4 place up past Newcastle somewhere but I can not remember their name. A quick Google search came up with both companies and the Dinitrol website. 
Let me know how you get on.  

I’ve been doing a little more searching and found “Stagshaw” (mainly Landrovers but do other cars as well)who are the main Dinitrol agents apparently. There based on Queensway South on TVTE. I’m calling in on Monday for a quote but the guy said a ballpark figure would be £400-£700 depending. By the way Thompson’s/Waxworks of Morpeth are out of the under sealing business. Rang Auto spray for ballpark cost but no contact yet.

as

Thanks guy’s for your input.

I’d love to do this myself but can’t buy sufficiently high ramps (at a reasonable price) to give decent space to work. Hiring a garage ramp is also prohibitive and I can’t find anyone with an inspection pit, so your then faced finding a dealer you can trust. It’s a bugger!

Are there any other professionally provided treatments other than those mentioned?
There is a Dinitrol company in the North East so I’ll check their reviews (but how trustworthy are they).

As I say I’d love to get at it myself, that way you know how good a job you’ve made but given my garage is just wide enough to squeeze out the door and the street isn’t an option I’m going to have to take a chance on a dealer.

UNLESS SOMEONE KNOWS BETTER😂

Anyone had their car rust treated? I live in the North East and looking to find a recommended dealer. Which is the best treatment Waxoyl, Dinitrol or other? Don’t know much about the various treatments available but Waxoyl seems to me better for box sections rather than under body protection.

Im willing to travel for a reliable and recommended dealer.

Thanks in anticipation👍

The brace still looks serviceable to me (better than my 2004 car) you may need to check the kidney joints though

Excuse my ignorance, but how many are there in a box, I can count 6 from the picture?

cheers Dicky

On 15/02/2022 at 16:00, Ekona said:

You’d think so, wouldn’t you? And yet that was the EXACT issue I suffered with for aaaaages on my old MR2 trackpig that took me forever to actually diagnose, hence mentioning it. Theoretically impossible I agree, but that was the cause. Drove me nuts! 

 

Fluids are weird things, hence why I got out of plumbing

Cheers lads, soon as the weather improves ill get at it. Thanks for the help, Zman as well. As for plumbing, I see your point, if ever I attempt a plumbing job water gets everywhere, I'm sure it has a vindictive side cos even going to the toilet it finds a way to miss the bowl and pee the wife off.😂 

3 hours ago, Dicky said:

My 2004 car has displayed this same problem from new. You apply the brake and there’s a noticeable travel before pedal resistance is felt. If I apply the brake, take my foot off and apply it again I get a good solid pedal feedback. It’s not a big deal although it is annoying.

I remember years ago I asked the service manager what it could be and he suggested a servo issue. Years later I had the brake fluid changed by another Nissan dealer who made a real mess of it unable to get a firm pedal. I consulted the forum and got info on the correct bleeding sequence which solved the problem after which I noticed there was no travel whatsoever on the brake pedal. This lasted for quite a long maybe a year but then reverted to pedal travel again.

 

Anyone experienced this and resolved it or can offer possible culprits.

Cheers Ekona, thanks for that. My mind was centred around the servo or master cylinder.

I guess the annual bleed job would be the easy option but then again I’d love to experience the feeling of triumph over an annoyance that’s given me grief all these years.👍

My 2004 car has displayed this same problem from new. You apply the brake and there’s a noticeable travel before pedal resistance is felt. If I apply the brake, take my foot off and apply it again I get a good solid pedal feedback. It’s not a big deal although it is annoying.

I remember years ago I asked the service manager what it could be and he suggested a servo issue. Years later I had the brake fluid changed by another Nissan dealer who made a real mess of it unable to get a firm pedal. I consulted the forum and got info on the correct bleeding sequence which solved the problem after which I noticed there was no travel whatsoever on the brake pedal. This lasted for quite a long maybe a year but then reverted to pedal travel again.

Anyone experienced this and resolved it or can offer possible culprits.

Well I've decided to wait until next year when its a bit warmer to get under and possibly do it myself depending on how bad it is.

Companies I found were Thompsons of Morpeth, Darlington Vehicle Welding, Pristine Autos Gateshead, The Garage Bishop Auckland and JR Classics Ltd Doncaster.

Haven't narrowed it down yet by visiting them but also would like to speak with someone who has used any of them. Problem is I've head a couple of poor workmanship stories and lets face it once the underseal is on how you going to tell if its a good job?

Word of mouth is the best way forward.

Had a similar problem earlier this year.. see my post 

thankfully your problem seems to be sorted but mine turned out to be just over £3K problem to resolve (Buggar) anyway it was. worth it as I couldn't have bought another car for the price of repairs. It might be of interest..

Cheers Davey_83👍

Thanks young man your a gem! You must have a PhD in 350z motors😂

Anyone know off hand what size bolts are used to fix the brace in place, and for an extra bonus point the bolt size holding the plastic protection covers on?

Also when working on the car which type of socket is best, 6point or 12 point, especially for rusted bolts

SOLD

Yep, I’ve got one if your interested. Small scratch on the base at one side and slight sign of use on the top of the knob ( see pics) but stil in good shape. PS: not sure what happened with the pics but couldn’t sort it. Anyway you get the idea.

Many thanks young man for responding, I’ll give them a call. I’ve found one in Morpeth and one in Darlington but the worry is who can you trust to do a good job.

When I decide on one I’m going to insist I watch the work being done.

Thanks again

These companies are very hard to find up north and finding a decent one even harder!

Anyone used a company called Autospray located in Darlington who apparently use a Dinitrol process??

The final chapter.

Got the car back from Vic Youngs garage in South Shields who have saved my old car Betsy’s  life (I recommend them). She’s sitting in my garage now with blankets and a hot water bottle to recuperate after 4months of waiting hindered by Covid staff shortages, Holidays and sourcing parts. 
The final bill £3200 which seems fair considering the parts cost circa £1200.

Shes had new timing chain and tensioner, water pump, a low milage cylinder head and injectors from ZmanAlex and gaskets etc etc.

All this because of a faulty injector on cylinder 4. How on earth can you tell if an injector is functioning 100%? 
As it happens I had noticed a dirty cylinder 4 spark plug over the last 3 services but couldn’t understand why, even posted the question but no positive solution.

All I can recommend after all this aggravation is 1) be weary of dirty plugs when doing your servicing, possibly do a leak down test on the cylinder if your not sure and 2) listen for timing chain slap after a couple of seconds after starting and be sure to change it well before 100K miles especially if you give your car the beans a little to often. 
 

. 

Just had an advisory on my 2004 car regarding underbody corrosion. Had a bit of a look (as best I could with near side wheels up on the kerb) and it doesn't look to bad but needs some attention.

Can anyone recommend a decent underbody rust treatment company anywhere in Tyne & Wear??

Thanks

Still waiting for the finished product. Lost a week due to the service manager going on holiday and gaskets etc not being ordered. The mechanic had a little work to do to tidy and check the replacement cylinder head but I’ve been told this would not incur labour costs. Anyway all the parts came in last week so onward and upward.

It’s a bugger though all this hassle and expense

over something I could have spotted had I been more aware. Also, as I mentioned earlier, the timing chain had jumped a link because tensioner was at its fullest wear position. I can’t seem to find any Nissan info suggesting how often the timing chains and tensioners should be changed. I’ve heard 100,000 miles mentioned but I thought they lasted the life of the car. Bugger squared!! 
If I had my time again I would change them at 60 to 70 thousand to be on the safe side especially if the car is driven hard at times.

To be continued....

Anyone done this? Did you use a fuel additive and was it any good or did you take them out and clean them manually.

Is there a procedure available anywhere ?