Dicky

There is info somewhere on the forum because I remember reading about this a while ago. From memory the old spoiler has two fixing holes and the V1 has 4. As I recall the person fitting it had to drill 4 new holes because there was an alignment problem with the original two. He also mentioned how difficult it was to remove the original small spoiler and said you would need a boot respray. Best I can do.mif I come across it I'll post a link.

One or two predictive texts in there me thinks. Can't be my bad spulling! PS it would seem you have to click on the picture to go to photobucket to see the other two. .

Posting this to help others who may get problems. Neither the front nor rear windscreen wash worked on my car, and couldn't here the washer motors running. Checked the supply fuse No 87, 10A located under the bonnet on the passanger side. You've got to remove the battery cover, the surrounding plastic cover into which it clips and the plastic assembly butting up to the windscreen. Take care as there's an inner plastic structure the slots under the windscreen which can break off as mine did. It attached by plastic welding and I had to remelt the connection points with a soldering iron. The washer tank is located behind the inner wheel arch plastic cover on the drivers side. Remove the wheel and this cover to access the water bottle. Pull the filling tube out of bottle, remove three 10mm securing bolts one on top and centre two on the left hand side.Tthe head of the top bolt Faces away from you and behind the mounting bracket. I found it easier to cut a slot in the end of it and turn it out with a screwdriver. Remove the water outlet pipes by squeezing the plastick sides and pulling them off, water will flow out to catch it if you want to use it again. Remove two other water outlets by just pulling them off. There are two 12v water pumps one for the front and one the back windscreens and two pump connectors. Squeeze in the connector sides and pull them off. You can now remove the water bottle. The two water pumps can be pulled out of the rubber mounting grommets. I measured across the terminals of mine with a multi meter set tomOhms and got a reading of approx 2 ohms, indicating they weren't burnt out. Neither worked when I applied 12v from a spare battery I had. From this I could tell they were in fact both siezed. I sprayed WD40 at the pump shaft which can be seen down the pump water inlet tube, gave them a bit of a bang about with a pair of pliers and kept connecting them to my battery until they began to turn. I then squirted 3in1 oil at the pump shaft to further lubricate. Of the two connecting plugs on the bottle one is Green the other White. Looking at the picture of both pumps and with the green connector at 12 o clock position the +ve is the RH terminal, also on the white Connector. Once the motors are freed up push them back into the rubber grommets and reassemble the whole lot back into the car. Hope this helps and hope the photo bucket link works. I HATE PHOTO BUCKET. ITS NOT USER FRIENDLY.

Look, fit and quality I suppose. It's not for me cos I'm giving the car to my daughter who likes the V1 but they seem hard to come by so I was looking for something similar.

Anyone fitted a Nismo v1 look alike spoiler or Similar there happy with. Looking for ideas

Including 600+ million Americans

If you've got a decent one, let's agree a price !

Found it Rob thanks. Hadn't taken enough plastic bits off to be able to see it. The fuse is good so onto the motor. Thanks again

Yeah I took the battery cover and the surrounding covers off which revealed only an electrical box containing one relay. Do you have to take the battery out to see it ? I'll have a look on You tube.mthwnks for your help

Anyone know where the IPDM box is located (intelligent power distribution module). I'm looking to check Fuse 87 which supplies the Screen washer motor. The module may be intelligent but the guy who decided to hide it certainly wasn't !! According to the USA manual it's in the battery compartment, but I've had all the covers off and no fuse for washer motor to be had. Also looked under the small cover down by the accelerator pedal and on the passanger side but no signs of fuse 87. HELP it raining and I'm desperate for a cup of tea and I'm cold and I'm wet and I'm aching and I'm fed up and....and....etc etc

Starting to wish i hadn't asked now. No No, really it's interesting, a bit like getting your head around black holes and dark matter. The trick is to pack in thinking just before your eyeballs rotate to a position where you can see the end of your nose

Thanks for all this interesting input. I don't really have any intention of using ice, even though it's crossed my mind a few times when driving in cold weather, the cars plenty fast enough as it is. Cleaning the throttle valve just made me wonder, because Ive never really thought about it much and had always assumed the air was forced in when driving at speed. Obviously not, so I stand corrected.

Now your talking

Just had another daft though while thinking about air density. What if you dropped a plastic bag of ice cubes into the bottom of the air filter box (so you don't obstruct air flow to much) would that then increase performance until they melted?

WOW..my brain hurts. Very interesting though. So just to be sure I understand..a hand will produce 0.75psi and there are 14 lbs in one stone, so Newtons foot, being 12" long, will increase to 13" if stroked 4 times a minute. YEP I THINK IVE GOT ALL THAT. ha ha

Did a bit of a service yesterday and cleaned the throttle valve amongst other things. This may seem daft to the more savey amongst you but I've only just realised that the air intake scoop, the one that pushes into the front of the air filter box, is completely closed off when the bonnet is closed. Air is obviously available via the front grill although not directly into the air scoop. I had thought the air was in effect rammed into the intake when driving but no. So what's all the fuss about getting more air into the engine to improve performance. It's seems as though the air intake is dependant solely on the vacuum produced in the plenum ?

Thanks Tricky. I don't necessarily think I've got a problem, it's just that when researching a possible MAF problem on my mates BMW I read an article suggesting that calibrations can go out as early as 3 yrs. My car pulls well enough but it's nice to be sure that everything's working ok.

I've heard that if you disconnect the MAF and you run the car, if the performance improves then you have a calibration problem. Anyone confirm this or could it cause damage ?

Better start pricing this lot up!!

Blow the tyres up

The car is in good nick generally for a 2004, however the ride seems a little less forgiving than it used to be, so I was wondering what I could do to get that old feeling back. I gather replacing springs and shocks isn't to big an ordeal, however replacing bushes and which ones seems a bit more of a job. Is there anything else....short of changing the driver of corse

If I wanted to recreate the type of ride I experienced when I bought the Z new, what would I need to replace. Would it just be springs and shockers or more?

I don't suppose the early Z's would have this Hot Blade arrangement. Mine looks like a thermistor mounted in the middle of the air flow tube, so I assume this type is more likely to suffer calibration drift? My mates BMW has a strange looking arrangement. It has what looks like a thermistor mounted to one side of the air flow tube, and more towards the centre is a structure (can't as what it is) and has a centrally mounted and angled air inlet grill mesh. Any idea what that could be?

Been reading a bit about the MAF since my pal,s 330d bmw unit seems to be causing him problems. He had a crash a couple of years back and suspects the Bosch mass flow fitted at the time may be hampering his cars performance. Anyway I read that these devices don't stay in calibration very long, typically as low as 30K miles which surprises me, the air flow sensing device apparently operates at around 200 deg C and deteriorates over time. Since they can adversely affect performance, consumption etc I was wondering if anyone can confirm or add to this or has a means of checking calibration. Oh and their not cheap to replace!!

Got 10 yrs out of mine so can't complain. Bought a Bosch to replace it and after 1 yr it wouldn't start the car. Having charged it it ran down again. I took it back and thankfully got my money back. However I did discover something which is when buying a battery don't just select one based upon the a per hour rating. Apparently you also have to select one with the correct CCA (Cold Cranking Ampersge) rating.