Ebized

Good to have a Colin back in the team Good luck, but look out for that one with the whip

If all was well before the engine rebuild I would check all the electrical connections you disturbed during that process, as you would be very unlucky to get an unrelated major issue like that unconnected with the rebuild IMO. Maybe one of the main wires is pinched and shorting and not sure if the engine earth not properly connected might be the cause - the latter issue has been reported in the past on here more than once? Searching for some info the post pinched from another forum below throws up ideas that might help you. This is one of numerous very simple ways to explain it: a. Every electrical component in you car, even a light bulb, has to have a negative and a positive connection to the battery for it to work. The negative pole (-) of your battery is connected to the chassis of your vehicle, and this is the ground you are referring to. b. Lets say that you have a lightbulb in your car. For this lightbulb to energize (turn ON), it must be connected to both the positive and the ground side of your vehicle. Remember that the negative pole is connoted to the chassis of you vehicle, and that this chassis is the "ground" side. c. So, one lead or wire is connected to the positive side of the battery, and the other lead is connected to the vehicle's chassis. However, since the metallic frame (ribs, etc.) of your vehicle is grounded to the chassis, you can have grounding points throughout the vehicle. Even the motor is grounded to the chassis via a grounding strap. The electricity that powers all of the electrical components in your vehicle travels out the positive side of the battery, through each electrical component, then through the chassis and ground points, back into the battery through the negative pole. d. If a grounding strap, or any grounding point is loose, the electrical components affected can't work because the circuit is broken (open). In your case a "ground problem" could be a loose, or corroded, or broken ground wire or grounding point. Since the ground lead (wire) usually has a wire terminal, check this terminal to make sure it's clean and secure on the grounding area.

Saying that is rather like the £350m quoted by the Brexit camp, as in the real (right foot) world my bet is those buying a car capable of that 0-60 2.5 seconds time would perhaps be lucky to get half that range, albeit with a large in the process .........until it was out of energy in the middle of nowhere near a supercharger

The oil you have used seems to have qualities recommended by Ford for their engines. Reading the description of the oil makes me wonder whether it is also suitable for the Zed engines from: http://www.opieoils....engine-oil.aspx "Up to 75% of engine wear happens while your engine warms up. When the engine stops oil drains off critical engine parts, however Castrol Magnatec’s intelligent molecules don’t. They cling to the engine like a magnet providing an extra layer of protection. Castrol Magnatec’s unique formulation protects from the moment you turn the key, dramatically reducing* engine wear. Now with ultra-refined molecules, for protection you can see, hear and feel. Castrol Magnatec. Instant protection from the moment you turn the key." Maybe the oil on start up is just too thick leading to the pressures you have seen?

Nice one Alex

When you see the fire damage to another Tesla earlier this year it just shows how the aluminium bodywork 'evaporates' - unlike other burnt out steel cars where the body-shape is still identifiable https://electrek.co/...-short-circuit/ Earlier today I was reading the September edition of CAR that has a big feature on Tesla, and whilst the development is impressive, it seems Tesla pay for the 'energy' supplied by the superchargers? Whilst that is not a big deal atm, if sales start to go through the roof will they fork out for increasing numbers of superchargers, where there is also a potential fire issue, and supply at the superchargers cannot be met in good time the alternative of owners plugging into a 13amp socket and waiting hours will be less that appealing. Having been involved with electric cars back some 20 years back, it seems the charging issue remains the biggest issue for shall we say the the non die-hard fans that Tesla still want/need to win over, fires aside.

Good news is you are moving from a relatively tail happy RWD to another so your experience with the ZED will pay dividends, but from what I hear the '63's are even more lively than the Zeds in the wet...... Hoping to test one tomorrow But in the wet is where the '45 really scores and just enjoyed a drive home on familiar roads that were wet/damp where the 4matic makes it so planted - great fun though And yes, all the AMGs are autos (there is the manual option using the paddles that is not interrupted by the software other than the rev limiter) and the engines are hand built and after some 12k miles covered it seems Florian has done a good job

You can edit the heading on your first post using the 'more options' page.

The company owner: https://companycheck...N-HAWES/summary

Exhaust pops and bangs come as standard on the A45 In fact increasing number of reports about A45 owners being pulled for their 'backfiring' exhausts. In Oz tickets being issued along ASBO lines - strange in a country that prides itself on having fun I may be drawing my pension, but once a petrolhead.......

Definitely not - warning signs or something that could mean the engine could let go at any minute. So as others said ^^^^ big risk if you drive it again that could mean a lot lot more expense than just an engine rebuild

As Ekona says ^^^ Might be one of the common issues that often worries new owners not familiar with Zeds: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/90171-engine-clickingtapping/page__hl__+fuel%20+damper#entry1353175

This is best ^^^^ if you use the same bank and there is one close by. Instant confirmation of funds transfer. I would be wary about using the other's wifi as well as carrying large wads of cash. Hopefully you get a data signal and can login for a bank transfer without use of the other's wifi. Be useful to check your mobile signal for that area first? Have to say that to date I have yet to hear of a transfer I have made taking more than minutes to clear, and particularly if you give notice to your bank of the intention. And good advice said above to first check the max amount that can be transferred in one go, or indeed if you have to carry cash the max you can draw out (unless you have it all safely secured in the 'under the mattress bank' )

There are 4 different shades of gunmetal - check your VIN plate for the one you have WV2 WV2 1 WV2 2 WV2 L WV2 seems to be the most common in the UK

Just a secondary thought..... It's a modification that I would expect most insurance companies could see as having the potential to add to serious injury compared to a steering wheel with an airbag. So if not declared and the worse happened excuse for them not to pay out.

Recently got a set of 19" MPSS for the '45 from Tyreleader - first time I have used this German supplier but all good with with free delivery via DPD. £635.

Your last two words for me. Changed to Apple Mac, phone and ipad and so much simpler to use once you get out of the habit of thinking PC. Only real downside is they ain't cheap but then when you get to the point of throwing the PC's at the wall, aside from the hit on your patience, they well worth it. And that's coming from an old git who only used PCs since the days of Wang - anyone remember them

Thanks for the heads up

Firstly if you find the glare at night and as you wear glasses the anti-glare will help, speaking from experience. But having prescription sunglasses at night they might cut the dazzle some, but at the expense of general vision, again in my experience. Best bet is always avoid focusing on the oncoming lights - otherwise you might end up like so many road kill (of the animal kind)

I think you are best off taking the car to one of the respected independents for a diagnosis as given what you said about the work done, going back there doesn't bode well I fear. The boxes on the Zeds are know to be "agricultural", but are generally bullet proof and I do wonder if your whine stems from the clutch/DMF change. Also, if the gearbox oil has been changed it is important the Nissan brand is used. If you post up your general location with an ask about a locally recommended Indy that will help to direct you. Good luck

Didn't you know all R35's are wound up on a big rubber band and that is what makes them so fast

As advised above, you need to check both the planning permission for the house/garage build (seem to be nineties/noughties construction?) to see if there are any conditions taking away normal "permitted development rights" which you would appear to be entitled to - and that can include even simple things like garden sheds. Sometimes (rarely) there are other planning restrictions that could control what you propose, but my advice would be to make a visit to your local planning authority and ask to see the planning permissions for your property and what controls may or may not be in place to restrict what you are looking to do. You might find the answer(s) online but it can be tricky for those not familiar with the planning procedures. This interactive guide can be helpful: https://www.planning...teractive_house Best to find out in advance whether you are OK to go ahead with your choice an lay out for materials etc, to then have an enforcement officer paying a visit after a nosey neighbour asks the question of the Authority.....

Stunning pics

I just use the full version on the iphone - works fine for me. Lost count of the posts I have seen over the years about issues on here with tapatalk.