Ebized

We were reserving the extra for Ioneabee, but its yours if you so desire! Dunno about a leg over for ioneabee, be more like a leg up in his case Nice pics BTW And er, who nailed that hairpin

I do like a good news story!

Proper restoration coming on there - looking really good and credit to you

Maybe? http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/108941-breaking-fire-damaged-53-plate-azure-350z/

The adjustment I was referring to above ^^^ is a software one

iirc, the sensitivity can be adjusted - check your handbook as it may be the auto lights I am thinking about. Also, I believe the gel holding the sensor to the screen can fail/weaken. If it is under warranty go the dealer for a fix. I found the auto wipers worked very well on my 370, but if I did think an extra wipe(s) necessary I just flicked the lever down to on and off.

Like that I would have added that to my 370 had it been available to complement the wrapped valances front and rear:

http://www.350z-uk.c...bag-switch-off/

Try Jon - trader on here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/106123-350z-parts-for-sale/ If it is the standard 350 calipers (non-Brembo) you are after many have just dumped those to the back of garages in favour of a set of Brembo's all round so I would have thought you should not have too much difficulty getting hold of some. Perhaps this bump might attract someone who can help you, given the thread is not in the Wanted sub-forum.

Wow, that is low profiles you are using when the OEM sizing is 40 front and 35 rear.......and fatties too. What rims you using?

At least you are the right height to give those lips a smacker

Can't recall a 370 owner having the clicking rear axle issue that is not uncommon with the 350's and I certainly never heard the clicking noise mentioned by the OP and 350Z paradise associated with the (assumed) throttle use during my 370 ownership, but wonder if is the sensors/mechanical elements operated by the DBW system that might be the culprit(s)?

I see you have only made two posts (and in this thread) so I guess you made an inquiry of Alex without any history on the forum and I suspect you are right in your theory that as a very busy independent specialist on here he has to prioritise queries that will lead to business, as opposed to smply offering advice that earns him nothing.... But I will pm him for you drawing attention to your new awareness.

Forgive me Chris but those two 'links' look the same to me?

I understand your reason for not wanting to use winter tyres and indeed when snow and ice are not around they will hamper the driving enjoyment. And yes, I recall from my 370 days chains don't fit. But, potentially you may fall foul of certain countries rules should you get caught out, it seems, having just done a quick google check: http://www.rac.co.uk/drive/travel/driving-abroad/winter/ Maybe someone on here can help reassure....

So sad to see this as it was a really nice example.

How come he gets an undeserved point ??? Bloody referees Just scoring as I see it and noting your post No.13

I call that Scotland 1, Romania 1.

Service history to verify?

As Will says ^^^^ Quite honestly if your budget is £15k+ then given the means of transport you have been using then as the 370 is more up-to-date in the cabin and you like the looks then I'm sure you will feel quite at home after your 350 experience.

http://www.automobil...sonic/1952.html

Good to have a Colin back in the team Good luck, but look out for that one with the whip

If all was well before the engine rebuild I would check all the electrical connections you disturbed during that process, as you would be very unlucky to get an unrelated major issue like that unconnected with the rebuild IMO. Maybe one of the main wires is pinched and shorting and not sure if the engine earth not properly connected might be the cause - the latter issue has been reported in the past on here more than once? Searching for some info the post pinched from another forum below throws up ideas that might help you. This is one of numerous very simple ways to explain it: a. Every electrical component in you car, even a light bulb, has to have a negative and a positive connection to the battery for it to work. The negative pole (-) of your battery is connected to the chassis of your vehicle, and this is the ground you are referring to. b. Lets say that you have a lightbulb in your car. For this lightbulb to energize (turn ON), it must be connected to both the positive and the ground side of your vehicle. Remember that the negative pole is connoted to the chassis of you vehicle, and that this chassis is the "ground" side. c. So, one lead or wire is connected to the positive side of the battery, and the other lead is connected to the vehicle's chassis. However, since the metallic frame (ribs, etc.) of your vehicle is grounded to the chassis, you can have grounding points throughout the vehicle. Even the motor is grounded to the chassis via a grounding strap. The electricity that powers all of the electrical components in your vehicle travels out the positive side of the battery, through each electrical component, then through the chassis and ground points, back into the battery through the negative pole. d. If a grounding strap, or any grounding point is loose, the electrical components affected can't work because the circuit is broken (open). In your case a "ground problem" could be a loose, or corroded, or broken ground wire or grounding point. Since the ground lead (wire) usually has a wire terminal, check this terminal to make sure it's clean and secure on the grounding area.