Removed

I don't like the look of them otherwise I would have given them a thought

you want to come to some of the Z club events mate, some awesome examples of old Zs

I have no personal experience on this, but for that amount I'd say SC. If you haven't got the budget for the internal work needed (imo) to run twins relatively safely, the safest option is a SC. afaik no known failures of Vortech (the best SC option imo) in the UK.

we are talking about what, £3-4k worth of wheels? :teeth:

I'm sure I saw the Dymag (the carbon kevlar ones, yellowish tint) when I was there? For a laugh i asked the price and sizes (PS their stand was TINY btw, as opposed to other more "commercial" brands) and at the time they weren't making them any bigger than 17, mind you that was about at least 2 years ago, so they've most probably grown incredibly as a company. Those wheels weighed ~ 4-5kg, iirc. awesome stuff

PM Ming for prices mate, he's the man you want to speak to

BBS do don't they? OZ too iirc? any others that you guys know of? tell you what mate, when I was looking for wheels I went to the NEC autosport international show and there were ALL SORTS of wheel manufacturers, from cheapos to supercool magnesium, kevlar and carbon fibre (yup, you heard right) wheels. Now that's what you'd want for your Z B)B). Guess what? they were making them no bigger than 17" iirc surely that would be a real no-no for most on here, now would it? :teeth:

oi, what's wrong with cheapo seats! I enjoyed my carbon look cloth seats for a long time thanks very much :P:P:P

IMO brands to be trusted should be those with racing pedigree, at least

thanks Mike! you might want to attach the pdf file on the post, if you haven't already PS no worries I just did

again, I knew that Axis are very heavy and so are the Anteras.

very good point and well made ZZZ. I say don't lock this thread as this is good info

the casting process for yours Digsy according to that info is the strongest one, so you should be ok Chris, people enjoy reading this (you seen the reading count? ) there's no argument going on, (at least from my part) what's your problem? Why do you want to lock a popular thread that has got some good info on it for all to read? Spamming? all good info here, surely you can discern the 2? I'm not interested into beating anyone into submission as you say, nor am I interested in convincing anyone about anything. Again, what's your problem?

Rick, nice find on that site, btw. attaching the info pdf file on there, makes for a good read

who's got PIAAs? they are just copies of mine, you know and no PIAAs are not forged, in fact they should be sued to death for stealing WORK's design so blatantly even with the PIAAS you save 700 grams per corner that's 2.8kgs of unsprung weight PS Chris, some find this quite entertaining Imagine how boring this place would be if we all agreed with each other (or worse, if the mod team overmoderated this forum )

oh no that's way too expensive, surely you don't advocate a full retrim instead of patching up the damaged part only? not all members are as rich as you H5 you know

basically it all boils down to try and emulate this design. if you haven't got it, you are a loser, simple as that Note the flashing LEDs to alert other road users of your presence, and of course note the design to minimise unsprung weight. Forged 1 piece, these are a wonderful example of wheel engineering, worrth every penny of the hefty price tag Go for it, you know you want to! PS note the custard car which enhances the beauty of the design

ok then do your own research and you will see that unsprung weight really does equates to 3 to 4 times sprung weight. So he is correct

why add to an already heavyish car, then? might as well put on 22"

Gliptone as a product to use, very good results on mine. But unfortunately once they start deteriorating, im not sure you can do much about it.

not atm, I'm afraid, car is filthy and so are the wheels. Good idea on getting them done at the same time for the refurb, mine were kerbed too and now pristine. Will get pics sorted once I get the whole car sorted mate

P3 imo the list has been screwed by the first guy doing the P1 after only 3k miles, you are correct, although the oil change would have still been beneficial after the break-in period, so it's all good. SHould have done an oil change at 3k then the P1 done at 9K. and then normal service intervals as per manual. the P3 is the most expensive and most involved service, btw. Costs will vary depending upon area of the UK, delaerships, and sometimes mood of the operator you speak to

wot did you have in mind design wise..... and do you know the cost of powder coating....?? has anybody got any design ideas for a standard set of rays......... cum on guys lets see some creativity........... I've had my own 18" for the winter powdercoated by Ming's preferred powdercoaters, I'll let him go through prices etc. As far as colour, just pick one that you like, my oem ones are black metallic now.

oh but no unsprung weight has now become less important because Dorian said so well do your own research on unsprung weight and learn from it. then you'll hopefully understand why I diss cheapo wheels in favour of better, forged and lighter ones.

so what, I agree with his thoughts, and you know for a fact that they are true anyway. Dorian I remember you quoting stuff straight off websites about grip etc. , so what? I agree with those thoughts as you agreed with the ones you quoted.