Removed

HKS and Rotrex have fallen out.... there are rumours that HKS "could" do their own SC system copying the Rotrex, but sources in Rotrex said they would sue straight away.

Black Diamond btw....

that I'm not sure you actually can...

Thanks to Anyone2u for the detailed tutorial! Agai, bear in mind this is on a LHD Z I decided I wanted to replace my brake handle to match the interior theme of my car. Plus I had purchased both boots (shifter and ebrake) from Redlinegoods and it didn't look so great just sitting on top of the brake handle. I did a search on quite a few boards and couldn't find anyone that had actually replaced theirs so I decided to take it upon myself to figure it out. Momo seems to have the biggest selection of brake handles and since my steering wheel, shifter knob and pedals were all Momo, it was the logical choice for me. I actually bought a couple of different ones before deciding which one to go with. Fortunately I was able to use one of the "extras" to help with this DIY. You also need to buy a Hand Brake Adapter (~$4) and you will need Model A2. This narrows the hole at the end of the brake handle where the button is. Thoughts of just sliding the new brake handle over the leather should be discarded. Unlike the shifter knob (if you were able to get the stock one off without destroying it...), replacing the brake handle is a non-reversible mod as you have to remove the leather covering off of the handbrake, thanks to the Zs handbrake design. In addition you will need to buy a boot to cover the remainder of the car's handbrake. Again, I bought mine at Redline Goods and it fit perfect. The tools are pretty simple: A dremel, a drill, a metal drill bit (I used 5/32" because that's all I could find in my tool box ) and a utility knife. A little allen wrench comes with most handles. The Handle.This is a picture of a brake handle (Momo Pit Stop Red) along with some labels so you can make sense of what I am talking about as I explain the process. Note that the Boot Collar, which is plastic, slips on after you have the boot on. Unfortunately I didn't have a second boot so you'll just have to use your imagination for the time being. Step 1-Destroying The Car's Handbreak. I used a utility knife and cut right along the seams. It hurt for a second and then I convinced myself that I could glue it back together if things didn't work out. Yeah, right... I also did a little trimming on the plastic "bottom boot" as well, after I slide the handle on for a test fit. Here's a picture of the "point of no return" stage. Step 2 - Destroying The Handle Ok, since you have already destroyed your car's handbrake, destroying a ~$100 aftermarket brake handle is a walk in the park. Unfortunately the picture I took of the cutout on the actual handle didn't focus correctly so I had to use the extra handle to try and explain. You must remove the bottom portion of the handle and it must be ~5/8" wide so that it clears the bottom portion of the car's handbrake that decides to "fans out" at the bottom. You also need to remove this section all the way back to the "Boot Ring", otherwise the handle will not be able to slide down enough to allow the brake button to stick out. In addition you must also cut out a ~5/8" section on the plastic Boot Collar that slides on and holds the boot in place. Step 3 - Destroying The Car's Handbrake (Part 2) Hopefully you did step 2 correctly so that the newly destroyed handle now slides down far enough so that the brake button sticks out far enough and is functional. Congratulations. Now, since you just removed one of the securing screws that holds the new handle on to the car's handbrake, and the one on the driver's side cannot be used since it would screw up the button mechanism (see picture below), you must drill a hole in the top of the car's handbrake and screw the securing screws into it. I used a 5/32" metal drill bit and the securing screw screwed right into very securely. As the picture below shows, first thing you want to do is slide the handle onto the car's brake handle as far as it can go. Then mark the the point where you are going to drill the hole with something. You probably don't want to use the new handle's top hole as a guide and drill through it because you could screw up the threads inside the hole. I drilled right through the top of the handbrake to the other side and that didn't cause any problems. Here you go.

I did a search for a DIY/"How-To" guide on removing the stock side skirts and didn't find anything with pics, so I decided to make one as I removed mine. As others had mentioned in the threads that my initial search brought up, it's a pretty simple process that should take you about 10 minutes per side. Tools: You really only need a 10mm socket (deep one if you got it), a small screwdriver and maybe a pair of pliers. Overview The picture below shows the approximate location of the fasteners that secure the skirts to the car. There are six (6) 10mm bolts and four (4) "Pop Rivets" along the bottom and ends of the skirt. Step 1. It's probably easiest to remove the "Pop Rivets" first. There are two in the front (location #s 7 & 8 from the above picture) and two in the back (#s 9 & 10). To remove them, stick a screwdriver in one (or more) of the four slots and "pop" the center cap out. Once it's out far enough, you can remove the pop rivet. Step 1a. For some reason (more than likely just to be a PITA) Nissan decided to use one of the Pop rivets underneath the car at the front of the skirt (#7) so you kind of have to remove that one "blind". The other three (inside the wheel wells) are simple. Step 2. Removing the remaining 10mm bolts is very simple. If you have a "deep" 10mm socket this will make life a little easier as the handle to the driver will be below the bottom of the skirt. You can also use a phillips screwdriver if you have one the right size. Step 3. Now that all fasteners are removed, you can start to peel the side skirt away from the car. Just like removing a door panel, you want to get the right angle and slowly pop the clips that hold the top of the skirt to the car. Start at the front of the car and slowly move backwards. The back three clips are a little different than the front ones, but pop out the same way. That's it, you're done. BTW, here is a final picture of the inside of the skirt that may help you understand how the skirt is clipped and bolted to the car. Hopefully this helped someone. smile.gif

This write-up covers my LED clear corner install and is written with intent to assist you with any of the following things on your 350Z: Installing clear corners or LED clear corners. Front bumper removal for any reason. Splash guard removal (replacing bulbs etc.) I should state first that this install is really quite easy on the Z. If it looks somewhat cumbersome here, don’t worry. Just give it a try and you’ll see what I mean. Tools Needed: Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I will let this pic do the talking. What I forgot here is a long-handle Phillips screwdriver I used (I’ll explain later why that its useful. By the way, the socket you see is 10mm and the wire taps are 18-22 gauge size. Process: Alright, so here we go! All steps numbered in order. Tip: If your new corners have LEDs in them, before you do anything else, test them to make sure they are working fine. Otherwise you will just waste your time! Place power wire on the battery’s positive (red) terminal and the ground wire on any unpainted metal under the hood. The bolts for the strut tower brace are a good ground point. They lit up? Great! Now we can proceed. 1. Raise the front end of the Z and use jack stands to keep it safely there. I set mine at approx 10â€

Thanks to Anyone2u for the detailed tutorial... all please bear in mind these are LHD cars... Taking off the rear bumper didn't seem to be as hard as most people had mentioned and it shouldn't take you more than 2-3 hours in a worst case scenario, including beer runs! :icon44: BTW, just so you're not saying "WTF is going on? My bumper doesn't look like that!", I have the Vizage rear skirt mounted on top of my stock bumper. Underneath it's all the same as the stock bumper. Tools Needed: 10mm wrench/Socket 8mm wrench Phillips screwdriver Medium slot screwdriver Pliers Overview Pictures Below are a couple of pictures showing the rear of my car as well as a picture of the interior of the bumper once it had been removed. Just so you know what part of the car I am talking about, I decided to go ahead and put picture numbers in reference to that particular area of the bumper. Hopefully they make sense. BTW, I actually forgot to take a picture of the rear of my car before starting so I had to go dig an old one up that I could use as a reference. Step 1: Taking Off The Tail lights/Tailights After opening the hatch you will see three round "caps" running along the top of the tailights. Using a slot screwdriver, pop the caps off and you will see three 10mm bolts. Using a socket, remove them. Step 1a: Unplug The Bulbs After removing the three bolts, the tailight should lift out pretty easily. Just so the tailights don't get in the way, remove the bulbs from the assembly by slightly pushing the connector base and and turning it (counterclockwise, I think...). Step 2: Remove The 10mm Bolt Behind The Tailight The title pretty much says it all... Step 3: Remove the Plastic Connector This was kind of a b!tch for me, mainly because I didn't know what I was dealing with and I couldn't find one stupid 8mm wrench (plenty of 6mm, 7mm, 9mm and 10mm wrenches! ). It's under the top lip of the bumper so it's kind of hard to get a good grip on it (or take a picture of). Since I didn't have the proper wrench (and no other tool seemed to fit in there) I ended up using some longnose pliers and was finally able to turn it the required 90 degrees and you should feel it release. Hopefully the "closeup" picture of it will make it easier for you to deal with. Step 4: Remove The 10mm Bolt In The Wheelwell Pretty easy to do but the picture isn't much help except to give you a general idea of it's location. I will place the blame for the out of focus picture on beer, although the lens is supposed to be AF... :icon14: Step 5: Remove The 10mm Bolt Under The Car Again, pretty easy to do and I even got a decent picture. Sweet! Step 6: Remove The Two "Pop Rivets" By The Exhaust You may need to slide under the car to see what's going on here. In addition I changed my exhaust out but I remember that the stock exhaust was quite a bit bigger. Hopefully everything is pretty much the same. In any event, there are two flexible plastic straps on the bumper that connect to the mounting plates in the picture with the "bigger" pop rivets. Use a screwdriver to "pop" out the center of the rivet and then you should be able to remove the pop rivet. Don't contemplate suicide if you destroy them - you can pick them up for ~$1.00 a piece if you're on good terms with the Nissan parts person. Great news: these are the last two bolts/fasteners/rivets holding the bumper onto the car! Grab a beer to celebrate! :icon44: Step 7: Disconnecting The Top Clips The bumper should be somewhat loose on the back of the car now and you should be able to pull the top of the bumper away from the car with your fingers. Like any parts that are attached to the car with "clips" (ie side skirts, door panels, etc) you should always exercise caution when pulling the part away from the car. There are FIVE big white clips holding the top of the bumper to the car and working from one side to another, you should feel them "pop" out. Try to just remove the top of the bumper a few inches at this point. You'll remove the entire bumper in the next step. Step 8: Sliding The Bumper Off The Car. The bumper sides actually have a set of rails that they slide on and off of the car on. Look at the picture below and it should illustrate how the bumper sides are attached to the sides of the car. You must pull the bumper STRAIGHT BACK and eventually the White Guide attached to the car will travel far enough down the "Rails" (attached to the bumper) to let it go. Slide the bumper away from the car, but don't take it off all the way yet as you must unhook the tailights and the license plate assembly. Step 8a: Clearing The Fender Liner I thought I would add this precautionary note to just in case someone runs across this. You must pull the fender liner out from the rear bumper BEFORE you can slide the bumper back very far. In addition, you may have to pull down the top corner of the bumper where you removed the 10mm bolt (remember that crappy out of focus picture I posted...) when sliding the bumper back as that hole may get "caught" on the white rim of the white plastic fastener on the car that the 10mm bolts to. Step 9: Disconnecting the Tailights Chances are, the reason you are removing your rear bumper is because you are putting a new one on or you are going to do some mod to the tailights. If that is the case then you might as well remove the tailights from the car now. Even if you are not, sometimes the little electrical connectors are a pain to work with. Just for that reason, I decided to remove the tailights from the bumper as it was only two screws (phillips head) per tailights. Check out the picture! Now that is some quality photography there - beer (and auto-focus) must have kicked in! :icon17: Step 10: Disconnecting the License Plate Assembly I believe that this is the License Plate assembly harness, but even if it's not, it's still a quick "how to" on removing the electrical connections. Just keep in mind that when you remove the License Plate Assembly, you are disconnecting the hatch release as well. Not that anyone I know did this, but if you happen to place it inside your hatch for safekeeping, along with your keys/remote, and shut the hatch, it could be a slight problem. Not a big deal if you have an extra remote and can pop it that way, but just a little fyi to keep in mind. OK, so that should do it. I haven't reinstalled my bumper yet, but I'm sure that it's just as easy as reversing the above steps. That said, we all know that that never ever really happens! :icon39: BTW, if I missed a step or you have some usefull advice that will help others, please feel free to post it. Thanks and good luck! smile.gif

yeah was thinking they might need the CE mark or something like that on the light BUT are we sure they aren't equivalent? seems strange to me that Nissan would use 2 different parts and not just homologate the part for both countries?

that's another common falicy as you call it. I know of slotted which cracked as easily as drilled. In extreme conditions (track days etc) all types of disks CAN crack... Nice 2 piece disks in the pic. Ugly wheels though

I don't see what difference there would be from Xenons in a US car and Xenons in a Euro car tbh.... ? (assuming they are both the same xenon type)

good, save up for proper ones

I've seen even up to 8 in a single journey from Manchester to Leicester for example. if you are so concentrated that you are not even aware of what happens around you, ie not noticcing other cars around you, you need to get some extra driving lessons.

on to what? he hasn't got anything else! Kitt & Baywatch :teeth:

agreed, in this case imo you pay for the brand name...

about this video, these guys seem to have bad info though, they don't even mention the new VQ35HR?

more pics http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/index.p ... =21769&hl=

still very curious about the GT-R specs, but it DOES look hot

yeah but careful about installation.... most prob require drilling/cutting of the plastics

not in the near-medium term future afaik

oh ffs, someone him

LOOKS LIKE the weather could be on our side for this guys..... get waxing!!!!! http://www.weatheronline.co.uk/GreatBritain/Chester.htm

oh yes...... now back to work!

Knightrider rulz da azzzzzz B)B)

as in for your new car? the 2 aren't really in the same price braket though, are they?