rtbiscuit

I have this at home, and its well worth a read, i use it all the time, its part and parcel of owning a british car...rust http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=30053&langId=-1 did you remove all the rust on the arch before filling it in, if there is any rust even if you just put some krust on top will still spread up from under all that expoxy. its a good effort, if your going to tackle tasks like that, its worth investing in a mig welder and teaching yourself to weld. and also an angle grinder. your top patch on the arch doesn;t look bad, although it protrudes slightly, but the pop rivets are a little worrying, are they counter sunk below the body? you might get away with it. but you might get sagging ontop of the rivets which will make them visible later. heres my wheel arch, this was doen with a spot welder, ok this is the other side, but it had almost identical treatment, and this is post blending and painting on this occasion this is not my welding, but i have cracked out the kit for other parts on other cars. but that haynes manual on bodywork is very good then ground back ad then finally filled in and blended.

i used a tape converter, and still do in the XKR.

its a knack, even a skill a thankyou very much; i'm here all night.....no seriously i am, i'm half way through GCSE coursework marking and dropping in on here is keeping me sane.

if you want a pair of tits on your car, just get a portrait of SpursMadDave on one side and Octet on the other...Daves a right Tit

on a 65mm hole your more likely to bend the screwdriver, you'll have about a 30mm radius of sold wood around your centre hole. you could chisel it but its unlikely to leave a nice flat bottom. yes you can do it that way, but i've always been a strong believer in the right tool for the job, and on such a large diameter hole a hole saw is not the right tool. depending on depth you want to go, and if you have a router, you could hole saw it then use the router to take the centre out. or just get a 65mm forstner bit.

i have a couple of sets at work but they only go up to 55mm, you said you needed 65mm, which really limits your options. they work best in lathes and pillar drills, but you can use them in corded or cordless drills. £25 not bad as some of them are over £100 a piece.

nice to have a decent sized garage to do them in. lokking good doogy

god i love those sagaris's and the tuscans

its a great tool for measuring progress as you mod a car, but the key is pick 1 dyno and stick to it. regardless of what the original number is it will show you what you gain as you mod. but if you move around and go to different dynos each time the numbers mean nothing. its like measuring a piece of string with a ruler that measures in inches, then later measuring it in cm's and then another one in finger widths. the piece of string is still the same length but i've got about 44 different sets of numbers none of which match what the original says.

are both cars down a similiar amount from stock?

the best for removing a hole in wood is not a hole saw, its actually a forstner bit, if you have to use a hole saw, drill as far as you can, then use a small drill bit and drill lots of little holes inside the circle, as many as you can, then chisel them out. but this is a horribly messy and crap way of doing it. just use the correct tool to start with which would be a forstner bit. for those not sure what one is although not what i normally use, this should do holes at 65mm diameter http://www.ebay.co.u...5-/320894847713

Dyno's are only as good as the person who calibrates it and the person who uses it. Every Dyno is different. And the same Dino can read differently on different days. Change in temp air pressure, weather etc all have an impact. Dyno runs only really help those who want to play pub top trumps with their friends. Or are tuning their car to see gains.

Is this midnight purple?

Good luck tomorrow, hope it all goes well and you can get the car to a driveable state.

That would be 44 to go lol It shows you how many posts each member has made on your phone does it? you assume I have a phone I dont care tbh...

Like I said exhaust note is a very personal preference I come at it from an engineering perspective and after having spent 6 months designing the exhaust that was put on my xkr I came to realise what works for me. What is one mans Chopin is another mans noise.

HFC's rasp aswell. less though but its still there. Rasp sounds awesome IMO. Exhaust note is such a personal preference, to me it screams chav, and poorly designed exhaust. As rasp is a by product of a badly designed system.

5 more operations, till the change is complete and we call him Tina?

Looking good, some tidy work going on there. Picture number 11 looks like the start of a zed related joke.....how many zed club members does it take to fit a super charger?.....

Apart from taking pics what did you do then Adrian?

With the change in mot regs I would go HFC. Always fitted them. Swap would probably lose the rasp of the exhaust, which in my mind is a good thing.

I have a card with the number and email for the local community support officer, it was them that came down. I suppose it helped I quoted the highways act. As they came and shifted them all. Also the Suffolk constabulary headquarters are round the corner and we live on a push estate. Low crime and lots of police visibility.

I called in one who parked across the drive blocking us in. Police were round within 15 minutes. Also wrote to the local police regarding people parking on junctions and corners etc. Whole of the next week we had the local pc down warning all the drivers.

...putting out the flames?

I like those gold wheels