Lexx

You'll be looking at cars with 100k+ miles for that price. JDM cars are only just around that range now. (not criticising, just letting you know what you can expect for that kinda money)

First off, read this post: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=16403 You got all this kit? Ok, and this next bit is repeated by the kind allowances of Ross who created the original thread (which is fully here: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=19787) Whilst it is specifically for a Pioneer HU, the wiring principles will be mostly the same with regards to the Loom and what you need to do --------------------- Please understand this is was "I" have done and should under no circumstance be used as a guide for you own project (incase something blows up ) Anyway lets start with the unit in question: Pioneer AVIC-F900BT. I am installing this in my 2005 350z GT With a Bose system already in place. For this install I required. 1. New Headunit (obviously) 2. ICT 29-672 Cable (This allows a new headunit to be connected to the bose system whilst still retaining the steering wheel controls). Available here: http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/ict/p~29-674.html?cat=0 3. 29-007 Cable (This is a Pioneer specific adapter for the above cable) Available here: http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/29-007_ict-29-007---pioneer-head-unit-adapter.html 4. Head unit fittings kit (I bought METRA CAR INSTALL KIT 99-7402 NISSAN 350Z 2003-2005‏ from Ebay USA...it has STILL NOT ARRIVED AFTER 2 WEEKS). 5. Soldering equipment 6. Length of spare grounding wire 7. Various tools From what I have read and discovered, the bose unit grounds itself through the chasis bolts, therefore any aftermarket headunit will require extra sufficient grounding in order to function correctly. In other words if its not grounded properly you wont get any power to the unit. I decided it would be best if I earthed the ICT cable and the Headunit ISO cable together to the chassis in order to get a decent grounding. Here is the ICT cable in question: There are two grounding wires on the ICT cable, one exposed and one running into the iso adapter. I stripped back the insulation, joined them tegether along with another open ended length of grounding wire, soldered and insulated. Now for the grounding on the Pioneer ISO Power cable. I have cut down and exposed the end of the DVD Handbrake detector wire, this is the wire you would usually connect to the handbrake to stop you watching DVD's whilst the car is in motion. I spliced this into the grounding to bypass this function (DONT DO THIS). The two wires were soldered together along with another open ended length of grounding wire. I now join the Headunit ISO connector to the ICT Cable. I then connect the two open ended grounding wires together and attach a eyelet at the end so it can be screwed onto the chassis. I have just had this out in the car and tested. The unit fires up perfectly now it is all correctly grounded.

Have a read through other peoples fitment threads to see if it gives you any clues. For example: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=19787

That's a steal!

Don't believe all these nice things about Chris! I've seen him punch a Koala bear!

I was just being devils advocate Dave, and making the OP think of possible consequences

Thanks a buch Lexx.... you have completely ruined it for me now ..... at least Father Christmas is real Yeah, but he doesn't have a Canadian visa.....

Epic facepalm! I'm no mechanic but come on mate! Be nice guys, some people just ain't mechanically minded. My sister is convinced that Witchcraft makes her car go.

Not wishing to be the H&S freak, but if you aint ever driven a RWD car without traction control, then I can't stress enough that you should not be experimenting with it when you have mis-matched tyre set up with narrow tyres on the back, and with wet/slippy roads. You would have to be fecking mental in IMO to do this regardless of your experience in the current weather conditions. But hey, it's your Zed, your insurance, and your life. Oh, and that poor fecker you run over when you lose control off a roundabout and mount the pavement.

And there is your answer. No. The TCS would go fecking bonkers as you are essentially flipping the rolling radious front to back.

Are they the same width and same with tyres? I cannae remember with the OEM standard wheels.

Shiney!

ZMANALEX does a deal when buying an Exedy clutch and Fidanza flywheels. viewtopic.php?f=157&t=27436 Prices probs need updating on this link though.

to the nuthouse There's a buyers guide in the FAQ's section. If you have an specific questions then ask away. Feel free to post links to cars to get opinions or history (if they are known to the forum)

I'm not sure on a 370, but here's the guide for a 350 which could help. viewtopic.php?f=35&t=53911

Any car will do this. It's the engine idle revs driving the wheels because you have the car in gear.

Yeah, my project has 4 bedrooms rather than 4 wheels

Something different than a set of brides thats for sure. Would look pretty good in a Chilli/Rosso car

This +1000 Possibly the most accurate post I have seen on here in a while.

There is a very small delay in rpm dropping when throttle is taken off. This combined with not fully lifting off the throttle when pressing the clutch (esp if you have a high biting point) will result in the rpm increasing for a short period of time.

You could always fit an aftermarket double din Headunit with a time readout on it. Bit of an expensive way to get a clock though.

My Bad.....Stews link does indeed include the code bit (been years since I have had to do it). When you are doing the reset procedure and the CEL flashes, it will flash in a sequence spelling out the code