Lexx

As title. Spotted on Friday evening. Needed a wash!

Do some googling on what Traction Control actually is

Make sure you tell them this phrase: "It's a non-performance enhancing back-box and tips only"

Are you planning on fitting it yourself?

Do you have a spiler fitted? There is a counterweight underneath the plastic trim of the boot to help it close. When you fit a spoiler, sometimes this extra weight is too much. As for the current problem you are having....have you fitted them correctly?

The Zed has an intelligent ECU which is learning. So if the intake did actually give you the 6bhp JWT claim, then the ECU would simply dial this back down to the stock bhp. But a pop charger wont give you any ponies due to heat soak. But for looks and sound, they are fantastic. Any loss you make in power, unless you are obsessed with power figures or you track your car, the regular butt dyno won't be able to notice any difference.

This is a very common thing to happen on Zeds. You can get a Scorpion for circa £350 which is a full cat-back system I think. You can also get Cobra exhausts for pretty cheap. Tarmac and CS are the 2 traders here to ask

You have to imagine that the spacer is attached to the inside of the wheels hub face, not to the car itself. That mean its makes the positive offset smaller as 30 (wheel original) - 10 (spacer) = 20 I've bastardised one of the diagrams above to try and explain better:

Leave battery on charge over night. Start her tomorrow, then perform an ECU reset if it's still all lit up like an xmas tree.

I have more hair than that Paul!

As Mike says, the bonnet is alluminium.....which contary to popular belief is actually very prone to corrosion. It just doesn't create what we call "rust" as that's Iron Oxide. Alluminium oxide doesn't expand as much as iron oxide, so the bubbling is generally smaller, and takes longer to come through.

Lots of traders here who will be able to help you with what you seek

If you don't mind travelling, I can recomment Falcon Performance in the North East, their bodywork shop is fantastic. Though it would be a hell of a trek for you.

Halfrauds or any generic auto-parts shop like unipart will stock them

Depends on what your wheel offsets are..... Though looking at those pics, you only really want a few mm, as they are almost flush already. Guess it depends just how much the tyre is gonna stretch.

Added a sticky to the FAQ with the info.

Humbrol Paints #54 is an exact match for the Brembo Gold caliper paint. It can be found in any hobby/model shop that sells airfix kits and the like.

You only just beat me to it Mike!

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=47348 Humbrol paint, cheap as chips

Oh. My. God. You've been a member for over a year, so I feel no guilt in saying this..... search the forums! We have an entire section dedicated to wheels! There's even a stickied thread at the very top with hundreds of pics of different wheels fitted to Zeds! In fact, I'm gonna lock this thread before we end up with another thread all about it. PM me if you are unhappy about this action, and I will gladly explain further

Done

Due to the number of threads recently about people asking about wheel offsets and fitments, and not being able to understand them, I have made this idiots guide. For all you people who are about to post up on this thread giving all this indepth details about it and explaining where I have went wrong - THIS IS AN IDIOTS GUIDE. Short and to the point just to help people get their heads around it initially, before they head off and do more reading around the forum. PCD: Pitch Circle Diameter is the diameter of a circle drawn through the centre of your wheels bolt holes. Zeds are a 5 stud, with a PCD of 114.3 Offset: Effectively the offset is also the distance from the centre-line of the wheel to the hub face. Therefore : If you put a wheel on the same hub with a bigger offset, the wheel will sit further inside the wheel arch because the wheels bolting face will have to move further in to meet the hub. Alternatively if it has a smaller offset it will sit further out from the wheel arch. Zero Offset - The plane of the hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel. Positive Offset - The plane of the hub mounting surface is shifted from the centerline toward the front or outside of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars. Negative Offset - The plane of the hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheel's centerline. Zed offsets depend on how agressive a stance you want. The OEM Rays are 8j wide, with an offset of +30. If keeping the OEM Rays, members often fit 10mm spacers to push out the rims essentially creating an offset of +20. When you are looking to buy new alloys for your car, the offset is important because you qill require your new wheels to clear the brake calipers. And for looks wise you want them to nicely fll the arches, and not to be lost inside them somewhere. Here is a link to a wheel offset calculator (this link takes you to an external site that has no affiliation with 350z-uk) http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp

Hmmmm I don't think I could let it go for that £4k and a kit-kat....not just any kit-kat....a White Kit-Kat chunky!

It'd be good if you could come back after you have compiled all the results and give us a run down of what you found out. As a club we have helped with numerous surveys over the years, but we never get any results back.

Ouch. 2:11 - The ulimate "planking"