Wolf24h

Got the delivery from Japan already, that was quick. I measured the washer and the pin for reference because I couldn't find any info myself (I guess so you pay much more instead of getting a substitute). Mind the spring washers are slightly domed, not flat. I hope its going to be useful to someone in the future: I also recorded the clicking sound, 100% coming from the wheel hub where the nut is despite garage assuring me it's axle boots needing regreasing:

I found it. The original one is Mine's but I think it's discontinued. The Mine's and Fly1 replica have to be bolted on. I saw a lot of negative reviews on Fly1 in terms of quality and fitment. Powertrix makes these but cleaner without screw mounting holes but would have to be imported from the US. https://www.powertrix.com/component/jshopping/z34/spaddon-1

Does anyone know what this add-on is? Been looking for a while but it's quite hard to find any info. I found Fly1 Type M but it doesn't look quite the same to me and I saw a lot of bad reviews about Fly1. I'm also curious about the insurance point of view as it's not adding a spoiler really, what do you think?

No worries, thanks for the effort. For now I think I'm going to order the washers from Amayama, the waiting time is long but there's no hurry. It would be less than £20 pounds for 6 washers and 3 pins, much more reasonable price if you can wait

Going to replace the rear axle nuts with the Kawasaki ones. Any info on the washers I could use, size/substitute? There is no way £8.79 for one washer is justified. Any tips from people that did it themselves welcome. I guess I have to do stuff myself if I want it to be done properly. I left a car at a 'jap cars specialists' (no names) and literally told them what the problem and solution is but they just told me they can regrease the CV joint boots. I will provide photos and description in this thread for others when I'm done

Another video, only at a specific RPM, not more, not less. A bite point? No noise on N or P. Gets quieter with time/heat until it disappears

I'll try to hijack this one so I don't make a whole new thread. Mine's an automatic too, started making a rattle at a specific point. It's best to replicate it by a cold start, put it in D or R, hold the brakes and get the RPM to around 900, very narrow band I'd say 850 to 950 right at the biting point? Can hear it when starting slowly from a stand still but only for a fist minute or so. After I drive off and thing start getting warm it completely disappears until it gets cold again after I finish work or in the morning. When I try to replicate it while the car is warm I cannot hear anything. I'm not even sure if it's something vibrating or grinding https://www.youtube.com/shorts/v-w9pgSzg_0

It is a tight squeeze in there! Barely could slide under the car with the small ramps but managed, couldn't even fit a torque wrench to fasten the sandwich plate with the factory cooler in place, had to trust the feeling and thread lock to do the job but so far so good. After warming up the engine no leaks found and shows over 20 psi at idle and 50 psi at 2k RPM which is satisfactory. Took it for a test drive, going to check for leaks again tomorrow and put the undertray back. Pulled the cable around the back of the engine and through the cabin filter behind the glovebox, the cable length was just enough, still have to power it but for now putting bare cables into a lighter socket works

Thanks for suggesting the sandwich plate, I think that's what I'll go with (D1 Spec). Doing the research I also found that filters suitable for the GT-R fit 370Z and are longer so that might benefit the engine by bigger filtration surface (was going to get Bosch P7001/1 but will get P2041 instead). I just hope it's all going to fit as I'm expecting to find the OEM oil cooler once I crawl under a car. It's a pre-facelift but 63 plate so there's a chance it has revised gallery gaskets anyway

I'm going to leave it for now and do some more research, don't want to rush it just to regret it and cry after I crack the upper oil pan, saw that it happens quite often. I learn something new about it everyday, the weather now isn't so great anyway so I'll wait it out so I don't have to roll around in the mud under the car I contacted the seller on eBay and they'll send me a new adapter, the sensor and gauge is some cheap set for like £15 so nothing too crazy, but could argue that it's not some advanced tech to justify sets going for like 10x more. Someone on Reddit just informed me that the OEM switch seen on the photo by the oil filter isn't needed and can just be unplugged, so I'm thinking about buying an adapter without a tee like this: Would make things simpler although the OE switch could function as a fail-safe (switches if it goes below 8psi?) in case the extra sensor fails. I decided to go with a sealant paste instead of the teflon tape too to avoid excessive pressure in the thread inside the aluminium pan. This feels way more complex than one would think, there are tons of posts on the Internet about cracking the pan while screwing the sender in, makes me think if I should really do this myself Damned if I do, damned if I don't, without the sensor I'll wonder if I'm killing the engine unknowingly every time I drive it, I can't believe Nissan decided to ditch the pressure gauge for a clock. In the end I might get someone to do it for me although I enjoy doing things myself, I'd rather be safe than sorry. Paying 1/2 hours of labour is cheaper than the upper oil pan swap

As a proud Z owner now I'd like to install an oil pressure sensor to monitor the engine and worry less about the gallery gaskets or to know if(when?) it's time to fix them just to be safe and avoid running the engine with the pressure below the spec. I chose to install a tee to NPT adapter and install it where the OEM pressure switch is located right next to the oil filter. The Nissan switch is 1/8 BSPT, the new sensor I'm going to install is 1/8 NPT so I bought something like this: According to the picture it should all work. I tried to test fit the sensor to the adapter while I'm still waiting for other things I ordered to arrive and I'm not sure if it's right because it doesn't feel like it. I know the NPT thread shouldn't go all the way in as it is a tapered thread but it literally feels like I'm forcing it in, could only make 0.5 turn with my hand and 1.5 turn after placing the adapter in my vice, applied some oil and a big ratchet wrench until I decided to stop just in case I was going to break it. I also ordered some teflon tape to seal the NPT thread but if it only goes in a few millimetres I'm not sure if it's even applicable. I never worked with such threads so maybe that's how it's supposed to be. All the parts had good feedback on eBay so I guessed it'll work but I feel I'm missing something obvious or I received a wrong item. I didn't try and install it into the engine with the OEM sensor yet so I'm not sure about that, I only heard that the BSPT thread shouldn't be so hard to turn and to be careful as it's really easy to mess the upper oil pan up, 15Nm with a torque wrench recommended? I'm sure at least a few people did this before so I guess it's better to ask before I regret doing it Some extra pictures:

Hello there, joined the forum as I might be interested in buying the 370z in few months. I don't want to exclude the ones before the facelift but gallery gaskets aren't something I'd be able to fix myself. Do you know any place you can recommend that does it somewhere across Devon/Cornwall (ideally not too far from Plymouth)? Thinking about changing them right after buying the car just to be safe. I was thinking about just mounting the oil pressure gauge after the purchase and leaving it as is if the pressure is fine but from what I read it's a matter of when, not if. Thanks in advance