Keith D

If its in the steering column area it could either be from the combination switch, or from the media. If you don't have one, download the service manual and check either BCM or AV sections, there will be a wiring diagram towards the back of the section and also a page showing the harness plugs with wire colours. Find a match. The steering lock will be in the PCS section. Its a balls ache but that's the only way I can think of to identify that plug.

According to the internet, 2012 - 2014 US cars still had the steering lock fitted, so it could be this issue, symptoms match I would genuinely test for that first Then I'd check the steering lock fuse and relay in the power distribution module (the box by the battery) Then I'd check the wiring diagram and pull some trim off and trace where that plug should be

Has it ever started and run since you've had it?

Sounds a bit like the infamous steering lock issue, YouTube it

The bung locations I believe are for different years and engines DE/Rev Up/HR. It will be a universal aftermarket cat. The OE cat has 2 substrates (the honeycombe filter bit) a HFC will have only one. The 'pre cat' sensor is for air fuel ratio, the 'post cat' monitors the cat efficiency. You'll likely want to get the post cat sensors disabled so they don't throw a fault, so it doesn't really matter which bung you use. Fit the sensors back to suit a tidy harness run.

Don't know about the nismo but the GT undertray is one piece, and I cant say it looks anything like that. But yes clearly something missing on that photo are there are 4 clips for screws.

I don't use underseal as it can dry and crack. I jet wash and then use Bilt Hamber Dynax.

DTI gauge will show it, you can get them for £20

The fact new discs and pads fixed it for a while, then it came back, suggests piston / slide pins might be the root cause. One pad isn't retracting, creating heat, warping the disc. I've never heard of pagid but copilot suggests they are not the best quality. Buy cheap buy twice is the old saying. When it comes to brakes and tyres I always buy the best I can afford, they're the things keeping you alive! Do you have a DTI gauge to check disc runout again? If that's okay then I'd lift the front, get a crowbar, and check every joint and every rubber on the front suspension for play.

5 or 6 yes's so far

Totally get why people make the comparison, but ECUs really don’t age the way consumer electronics do. Years ago I worked in automotive electronics, and the architecture of an ECU has almost nothing in common with a laptop or phone. They run fixed‑purpose firmware, not an operating system. They communicate over CAN/K‑Line, not Wi‑Fi or USB. And unlike a home computer, an ECU is designed to survive a level of abuse that would kill any consumer device instantly — they’re literally “shaken and baked” through extreme vibration, heat‑soak, cold‑soak, humidity, electrical noise, and EMI testing. If a PC went through even 10% of that, it would die on the spot. So a 22‑year‑old ECU isn’t “old tech” in the way people imagine. If the car is running well, the sensors are healthy, and you’re not pushing beyond what the factory logic can handle, the stock ECU is still perfectly capable. A standalone like Haltech or Link only becomes a benefit when you need extra control — big cams, forced induction, custom fuel strategies, race features, etc. For a weekend/track Z that’s staying NA or mildly modified, the OEM ECU is solid and more than up to the job.

I recently fitted Conti sport contact 7s all round on the 370z, I have been blown away with the huge lateral grip, in the dry whatever the speed whatever the corner there is just a mountain of grip. Not really an all weather tyre though. For a year round daily I'd probably look at a Michellin cross climate or a Conti all season.

Ticket booking = Haynes Motor Museum August 2nd Breakfast Club Its £5 I'll drop a post on ZocietyUK and ZedsSW Facebooks, and we can agree a meet up for drive in, there are a few local services on the A3030 a short blast from the museum And lets have no more talk about fisting please, this is a family website 😁

You can buy universal 2" and 3" velocity stacks on ebay, I'm sure you can figure out how to make them fit an airbox.

Small but friendly turnout, great to meet a few new faces

You never watched All Creatures Great and Small then on UK Gold? Fisting cows was a weekly occurrence 🤣

Did you ask why it's been sitting for 4 years? What's the story? Might give some pointers to how keen they are to sell. It's not appreciating sitting outside rotting, delusional if they think it is.

I bet you get asked all the time what's it like sticking your arm up a cows backside 😂

Pull a sickie 😂

There is a JDM theme breakfast club at Haynes Motor Museum near Yeovil on 2nd August, if anyone is up for it we could plan a Southern meet? The breakfast clubs there often get several hundred cars, and the museum is interesting.

The Tesla screen comes with (I think its called) a ground loop interrupter for fitting with Bose sytems.

I'll keep it simple and probably shoot straight up the M5 to Brizzle and M4

Looking rather sorry for itself. If it hasn't run for 2 years I'd want to check oil, remove the plugs, scope the bores if you have the kit, turn it over on the crank by hand, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank and build oil pressure, then fire it up before I gave a penny, but if it starts and runs 18k seems reasonable. Nice project to rescue, a detail will work wonders.

DBA T3 4000. Brilliant on road and track. JMHO.

I get the comparison with Japanese cars in the 80s, but it doesn’t really fit the situation today. Back then the issue was perception, not engineering. The Japanese stuff was already mechanically brilliant — light, simple, over‑engineered and reliable. People mocked them because they were new and cheap, not because they were badly built. With modern Chinese EVs the question isn’t “can they pass a crash test?” — clearly they can. The real unknown is long‑term durability, battery ageing, software support, corrosion protection, and how they hold up after 10–15 years of British weather and potholes. That’s the bit we simply don’t have data for yet. Phones and laptops being made in China doesn’t tell you anything about how a 2‑tonne EV copes with structural fatigue or inverter failures a decade down the line. Sales numbers don’t prove engineering quality either. MG and BYD are selling because they’re cheap, subsidised and loaded with gadgets. Fair play to them — competition is good. But comparing that to something like a Zed, which we know can do 150k+ miles without turning into a laptop on wheels, is apples and oranges. One is a long‑term mechanical machine, the other is a short‑cycle consumer product with a battery pack. On the weight thing — yes, everything has gained weight, but a 2‑tonne AMG GT is heavy because it’s carrying a twin‑turbo V8, a transaxle, a DCT and a full cooling system. A 2‑tonne EV is heavy because the battery alone weighs half a tonne. Not the same engineering challenge, not the same compromises. And sure, some niche EV brands have solved charging or weight for their segment, but that doesn’t magically make every heavy EV a “sports car”. Charging for a fiver is great, but running costs don’t equal build quality. They don’t tell you anything about how the suspension arms, bushings, seals, battery, or electronics will look in 2035. And just to put it in perspective — a 25‑year‑old Skyline GT‑R now commands a six digit price tag, deservedly, and still looks as good today as it did back then. I’ll happily wager no Chinese EV will ever be that car, or hold that kind of legacy.