Keith D

Sorry but the nerdy bit first... the rattle is caused by the engine at a specific rpm creating a frequency which matches the natural frequency of the thing rattling. Something is loose somewhere on the car. If it were me I'd lift it up and get someone to sit in the car and do what you are doing in the video, whilst I try to track the sound with my ears. I'd look at the cat shields and the manifold shields first for loose / rusted / snapped bits of shield or missing bolts. Just had something similar on my dog car (a 20+ year old Toyota rav4 used to cart my wet/muddy/sandy dogs around) and it was the cat shield which had partially rusted inside on a round band piece which clamped to the exhaust pipe, you couldn't see it from the outside. Created a rattle at c1500 rpm when cold. JMO.

Dr Google suggests the original fit was Yokohama Advan, which is a softer sidewall tyre.

PAS problems are often the fluid condition or drive belt. I'd check both. Is the geometry & ride height stock?

I didn't go but from the facebook photos it looked like a decent turnout; I count 3 x 370zs, a 350z, G36, a pair of GTRs, an R32 in the mix. Anyone go?

Other than brakes and a cabin pollen filter, and ignoring the underbody walk around video to rack up charges, what else is there to regularly service? Having EV service intervals similar to ICE seems a rip off

Creative thinking 👍

It's JDM morning on Sunday at Cullompton, looks like it is dry and chilly. On their Facebook is has 200 or so interested and 40 going. Being kept up by a new puppy, so probably won't go unless anyone else is? Would never miss an opportunity to talk mechanical trombones

A colleague was complaining today about his EV main stealers service. £300 for a pollen filter change and the usual underside walk around video. The words that come to mind are greed, profiteering, fraud.

Hi and welcome (from Somerset)

The cat status is still on the history, it's not removed. I'm not a legal expert but I believe there is an obligation to declare the car was a cat N when you sell it. Personally I've always thought cat D/N was a bit unfair. Just a few pounds either way can determine when one car is repaired whilst another is forever cat N. Also think on an older / classic car it's all a bit academic. On a 3 year old car it matters.

It adds a 'condition inspected' to the HPI check, it will say '1 recorded' or similar, and include the name of the inspecting co and a reference number for the report. It doesn't change the history of the car though. Prospective buyers can obtain the report, and it will say something like 'previously recorded as cat N on condition register' and give the date of the inspection, inspector name etc.

LV, fully comp, >9 years NCD, protected NCD, 2000 miles per year, zero excess, £320 Next year will likely be at the point where I can't argue mods are like for like components and will need to start declaring them, so who knows

Personally I'd bite the bullet and get it remapped/fixed properly by someone who knows these cars well, there are several on the Pro Traders thread. Otherwise Ecutek remote/networked service seem to be popular in the US. All engines are not the same.

I'd guess the existing OE oil sender will power the cluster warning light, and also be an input for reduced power / limp home logic (the IPDM). Low risk approach you could always buy an oil filter sandwich plate and put the sender in that and blank off the other ports.

L1 for a 1/8 NPT is 0.1615". Multiply by 25.4 = 4.1. So you should be able to screw the sender in to a depth of 4.1 mm by hand. The pitch of 1/8 NPT is 0.03". So multiply by 25.4 = 0.762. 4. 1 / 0.762 = 5.3. So hand tight the sender should be engaged 5.3 pitches. If you have it use some engineers blue in the thread then hand tighten and remove and measure the witness marks.

Have you checked the thread size is right on the adaptor and sender? It might be the supplier has got stock mixed up? National Standard Taper Pipe Threads Size NPT Chart (figures are imperial, so multiple by 25.4) I've ordered an a pillar trim and some gauge housings I can fix-fill-trim to mount an oil pressure gauge and boost gauge, so interested in reading how you get on with this mod. What sender did you buy?

Realistically supercharging will probably be 2nd half of the year. (Depends if I land a contract I'm hoping for in Jan, which will mean 6 months of long hours) The rad blurb says its for a manual, my car is auto. Is it still the right one?

Welcome and enjoy! I don't know what it is about blue paint, but to me it always looks cracking under lights at night time events. I nearly bought a 350z convertible in blue 20-odd years ago, I even got as far as putting a deposit down, but went for a blue Mitsubishi GTO import instead for a project car. So far I've got all my parts either at the local stealers or @Coz@TORQEN (who is brilliant)

Washed and waxed the car to within an inch of its life... well what else are the days between xmas and NY for? 🤣 Photo doesn't do it justice, its spotless top to bottom inside and out. I'm thinking I'll probably address the cooling next so it's ready for supercharging. Being a 2015 it shouldn't have the gallery gasket issue, but if I fit a Mishimoto rad and an oil cooler, is it worth replacing gaskets and screws whilst access is good, or is the original good for the life of the engine? Anyone have thoughts?

Shame, I'm still saving for a supercharger kit + oil cool kit + FI plugs etc, a grand off would be the deal of the century 🤣

Never seen one, Nissan only built a few hundred I believe?

The 370z is our 3rd car, I have it on limited miles policy and pay £380 a year fully comp, zero excess & protected no claims

Just checking before I order, I assume this is for a pair?

The wheel speed sensors transmits a variable analogue voltage to the ABS module, where they will be transformed and from there sent to the cluster as a CAN speed message. So in theory you could change the voltage range by changing the wheel speed sensors to ones with a different range, or by fitting resistors in to the harness. But will be a lot of trial and error buggeration I doubt on my best day I'd have the patience for. You'll need to fix all 4 otherwise the ABS module will get confused and think the front wheels are going faster/slower than the rears and pull on the TC, then probably get really confused and go into a limp mode or even sorry you're not going anywhere I'm not playing mode. All things considered I'd look again for the right gauge overlay, or if I can't find one look for a company who could print me one.