Keith D

Mine is a GT and it lined up exactly with the existing holes in the boot used for a GT wing. It was a very simple job - I reused the fasteners and added a strip of 3M tape around the edge. Not sure about a V2 to V1 Nismo change.

It's hard to diagnose a problem or location from a sound, but if its constant with speed not rpm its likely to be either wheel bearings / wheel side diff / brakes / wheels & tyres.

It's a fiddly job joining the upper and lower parts of the wing together, but other than that its a good fit to the boot panel. Nismo mk 1 probably my favourite wing. Now need some smoked rear lights...

Welcome. Lovely looking z.

Thats my rainy weekend job sorted - Nismo mk1 full carbon wing from Torqen. The quality of the carbon is gorgeous and well worth the wait. Now I've just got to make my mind up between airlift v coilovers with air cups...

My garage is a bit of a building site, I'm extending it from a double to a triple to make rook for another project - something rusty that needs a bare shell rebuild I do like an obnoxiously large tool box maxed out with shadow foam OCD though 🤣

Do you have a delete kit? Its annoying not being able to simply remove throttle bodies, and the engine bay is a total mess of hoses, whoever designed it has a hard on for hose. My Z is a summer toy only and garaged all year around so there is no risk of freezing / sticking.

There's no stutter on power, it's smooth as butter all the way to the red line. It's not caused by the car.

The clear lights, wheels and door handles really pop off the pristine looking paint. That's a fine looking z.

TBH I've never fitted air ride, I've always gone with coil overs on previous toys and either had the cars lowered and mostly ended up bashing the heck out the front, or had them higher that I might as well have stuck with stock. Airlift isn't cheap either so if I end up making the wrong choice it's the thick end of £5,000. A set of Tein Flex Zs are >£1000.

Horsham put it down to a glitch with the dyno, but it could also have been the wheels climbing the roller and jumping

Just a few small jobs over the last month; finally got around to fitting 20mm Japspeed hubcentric spacers all around and outside face of wheels are perfectly in line with arches now, replaced all brake hoses and fittings with Goodrich and re bled the brakes, and fitted some b pillar carbon trim from Alliance Carbon. They seem to have a bit of a bad rep but the panels fitted nicely enough. Waiting on a full carbon Nismo mark I wing from Torqen hopefully here in the next 4-6 weeks, then carbon roof and front wings next maybe...? Also can't make my mind up on airbags v coilovers with aircups...

Assume you have spoken to Torqen or Tarmac Sportz?

Stability control will be a constant calculation using yaw rate, steer angle and wheel speed. It will intervene if it detects oversteer or understeer by applying brakes and cutting engine power. Can't answer for specifics on zeds, but that's the general idea.

If I wanted to keep it stock, I'd rip the rotted cat shields off (they can't fail on rot then can they) and then get an exhaust from any decent exhaust centre. I wouldn't touch a Nissan dealer with a barge pole because I wouldn't want to be paying their hourly rate. If its the CATs themselves that have rotted through and not the shields, I'd buy a used pair of CATs (off ebay or someone breaking a 370z) If I'm keeping it, I'm fitting HFCs and a sports cat back £1800 ~ £2000 budget.

Unfortunately 11 months until my MOT comes around again, but if they pass an MOT with ease I'll take a set 😎

Wheel cribs can be built from lengths of 2 x 4 in an afternoon. There is no excuse to go killing yourself.

Pretty sure the 350z doesn't have a smart alternator so it should charge continuously, ensure lights etc off and use a multimeter to test for 14v. If its 12v it isn't charging. With lights etc on it should still be circa 13v. If its low it might not be the alternator, you can try a voltage drop test between the alternator and the battery to see if its a wiring fault, corrosion etc.

Aim middle for diddle with any torque range, so 52 inch lbs. Inch lbs is small by the way, my 1/4 drive drive torque wrench is marked in inch lbs.

Nice wheels, welcome

+1 for clear

I don't know about 350zs but I've had electric motors on older cars where the grease inside the gears has been old thick and crusty; and after a a strip down, wash and new grease was fine. I've also had occasions where it's been tired and worn reed switches on the switch circuit board at fault not the motor or regulator. Also a failed capacitor on the circuit board.

7/16 - 20 UNF, in case anyone should ever want to know