Cosmic73

Refitting the engine back into the transmission was a pain as it just wouldn't slot and kept jamming. I used slider studs and everything, had it all lined up but no luck. Pulled it back, lubed up the gearbox shaft and it slotted straight in! Happy days 🙂

Hey Alex and welcome. That looks very much like mine, which I bought as a project and in the middle of rebuilding the engine. Dave has organised a few meets, there's one in March at the motorcycle museum, Japfest and Gaydon which might be of interest 🙂

Myself and my children visit all the time as the entry means you can revisit free for a year. I'll be there, hopefully in the Z if it's running by then.

Good luck trying to find that out. I've trawled the internet for months trying to find out the differences in these engines. From what I've read 35th anniversary is also known as the GT4 (or based on it) so maybe that might help. I do know that in the revup workshop manual, 35th anniversary edition differences are stated. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm_download=350Z/Coupe/2005/em.pdf

Fitted all my shiney new Wiseco pistons and everything's turning nice and sweet. After being badly let down by a certain supplier, ive found a superb one who really does deliver the goods. Back on track at last.

Better then buying expensive and get nothing in my experience

Sounds good, count me in 🙂

Just had a very near miss while fitting my new Wisceco pistons. All going well but when fitting the end cap on piston 5, it didn't feel right and took ages to bite. Crank totally locked so after removing the cap, I realised the bearing had turned a little and got crushed. Total schoolboy error as I thought I checked it first but obviously I didn't. Luckily, the crank isn't marked but I need a new oversized .25mm rod bearing to replace, if anyone has a spare lying around?

Yes, sorry, I meant oil, not coolant. I wrote that post on my tiny mobile with no glasses. 👓

Hi, I know there's been a few posts of coolant leaking into the spark plugs but not oil, maybe try nipping up the rocker cover to seal it? I had a GTIr a few years back and the same thing happened because of the rocker cover. Visually the valves look ok but that won't tell you what condition the valve seals and guides or in. Guides will probably be ok, but seals can wear and harden over time.

Thanks, I'll take a look

Shiny sub-frames back from powder coating.

If my rebuild is done by then, count me in 🙂

My Nissan 350z pistons and pins arrived today and I assembled them into the con rods. The fit between the pin and rod bush is snugger then the fit between the pin and the piston. In fact it's quite a loose fit between the pin and piston where I would've expected an interference fit. This means the piston/pin interface will act as the wear surface, not the pin/rod bushing. Below is a video of my concern, anyone else who bought pistons noticed this?

I'm not knocking the engine. I think the oil starvation issue was exaggerated. I'm rebuilding one now (rod knock issue) and the engine parts are a **** to get hold off. With hindsight I would've got the previous DE or the following HR version where it's much easier to get parts.

If you do consider a 350z avoid the revup as a project.

No offence taken but doing research is what i'm doing. Also, asking advice in the technical section of a forum specializing in 350z is something i should be able to rely on. Thanks for the link BTW, it was interesting to read about piston fuel wash upon first fire up, but IMO removing the injector relay and spark plugs before fire up is what i plan on doing. This allows the engine to gently pre-lube and pressurise while it's turned over a few times, then i'll fire it up The general consensus is to use mineral oil (breaking in oil all the better) so i've bought 5L of Millers running in oil. I'm aiming to get the engine up to temp by fluctuating the rpm between idle and 2,500rpm. Once hot, i'll change the oil and replace with 5W30 semi-synthetic for the first 200 miles of 'sensible' driving. After that it's the normal fully synth oil and normal, fun driving.

Managed to sourced a refurbished revup crankshaft and bearings from Conceptua tuning. The runouts and diameters are spot on which was a relief. So, the rebuild has officially begun. Below is the fitted crank and mains ladder. I should have a set of Wiseco pistons arriving next week, 95.5mm with 11:1CR so fitting them is the next job.

Some people recommend using the OE spec oil to break in an engine (5w30 fully synthetic I believe), while others recommend cheap mineral oil then switching to fully synthetic. Also, some swear by a hard break in, others a soft break in. Im erring towards cheap 5w30 mineral, soft break in, then switching to fully synthetic and driving normally. Anyone recommend different? Also, anyone used a breaking in additive before?

The piston/ring set from Conceptua are for DE (non-revup) engines and he can't confirm if they're compatible for revup. From what i've read on various forums, non-revup (DE) piston/rings will work in a revup block. It's only the original revup pistons that need their own specific OEM revup rings. Is that definitely the case? So, can anyone tell me if these DE pistons/rings will work in my revup block? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112600053511

If you mean conceptua, I've just ordered a refurbished crankshaft/bearings, OEM timing kit, head bolts and gasket kit from them. It all arrived a few days back and looks as described. The crank & bearings are now with Knights engineering, along with the block and con rods for them to check the bearing clearances so I'm hoping to start rebuilding it by the end of the month.

Yesterday I ordered a set of Wiseco forged pistons from Concept performance only to cancel it a few hours later due to a 6 week lead time. I'm only running stock power so forged pistons may be pointless. I've seen these OE spec pistons for half the price which I reckon should be fine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112600053511

They're definitely $1k for a set of 6, not $1k for a single piston, that would be crazy price.

I can't believe the price of those, $150 for a set of 6, that can't be right. Has anyone bought these before?

£6k is a lot as they're forged. It appears they may supply non forged at a much cheaper £1k. https://www.wiseco.com/product/auto/pistons/professional-nissan-vq35de-piston-set-95-50-mm-bore-2/ Is anyone aware of other alternatives?