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Dipper

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  1. My Rays wheels were looking pretty tired. They had been painted (Probably more than once) so the paint was quite thick, and the colour was inconsistent. So decided to try something different. They were black and although I'm not one for black alloys they didn't look too bad on the red car. However I've decided to do things a bit different as allot of people have the Rays. And the Rays always looked like something was off on them to me. They are still at Ultamotive wheels getting the work done. But here's a few photos of progress....
  2. Finally got round to getting these fitted. Was a bit of a faff getting the bumper off. I only loosened it on one side. Then with a little key hole surgery managed to get in behind the bumper. Disconnect the old indicator/rear fog unit and replace with my previously modded clear one. (I fitted a red bulb in place of the red lens) all back together and the back of the car looks nice and symmetrical now.
  3. That's cool yeah. rare to see white ones
  4. Nice sneaky v1 nismo bumper on there. Is is white or silver?
  5. You're not wrong. It was set to off road at that height! Had to take it waaayyy down. Lol. I'm still fine tuning truth be told. I didn't even consider weight saving you know. That's a bonus. I know the after market subframe is a good bit lighter than oem too. So should see a few kilos shaved off so! It's mad a 1.0 litre engine micra has the same filter as a 3.5 litre. Bonkers
  6. Next up was the front coilovers. All these Jobs by the way, I've never done them before. I'm just flying ahead here with a mixture of youtube videos, naivety and misplaced confidence. But so far things are going well. Electrics unclipped from the strut brace, Strut brace off. Disconnect drop link. Unbolt the old shock/spring tower from the top and the big bolt on the bottom. Not forgetting to disconnect the brake lines and sensor wires from the old shock. And lean on the hub to get it out. Installation was straightforward. But adjusting to the correct height. Oh my God. What a seige. Took about 4 times wheel off and on to get it near correct. At least I can measure now and just match it to the other side. As for the damper settings. I just set it to 16 of 32 (halfway) and will adjust as required.
  7. While it was up in the air. I treated the car to a quick oil change and filter change. Never ceases to amaze me how small the oil filter is. Added a red magnetic drain plug while I was at it.
  8. A few more bits done today. Still working on the front end. Suspension. Old drop links and anti roll bar off. New Whiteline ones on. Bit of rust converter painted on here and there too. And a lick of paint to the front subframe. Once it's dry the new ultra racing subframe going back on.
  9. A mixture of Moog and Tarmac sportz brand. Moog for the inners. Tarmacsportz for the outers.
  10. So In my standard fashion I'm still bouncing around a loada jobs. Finally got round to cleaning up some of the front subframe before final fit. Rust converter on. And while waiting for it to work and later painting it. I gave the inner and outer tie rods a change. The old ones were looking pretty rusty and not inspiring confidence. I had to saw the old ones in half to get the rubber boots off too. As they were so seized together as one. Once all the parts are on it get a propper alignment too. Just gauged length of them off the old ones for now.
  11. Oh 100%. Most all moving parts down there need a refresh. Banana arms bushing seem ok. I think at least one has been replaced, before my ownership. The lower control arm bushing on one side looks a bit worse for wear mind you. It's probably going to be added to the list. (The list that never stops growing)
  12. A few steps closer today. I managed to get the big m14 nuts off the front sub frame. Without breaking the captive studs. (They were really on there) required the blow torch and the big breaker bar to get them moving. The rest of the m10 bolts came off without too much bother. So front subframe is now off. The ultra racing one ready to go on. I bought new hardware too. For reference. You need: -two m14 nuts. 1.5 fine thread. -six m10 bolts with 1.25 fine thread. (25mm long) I've mocked up the new brace. But I'm going to brush up and go over some areas with rust converter and a touch of paint before full reassembly. Also I've ordered new inner and outer tie rods before anyone mentions the state they are in!(shocking really, how did they pass mot?)
  13. Just a cheap brand off amazon. I think they are "Gunpla" so even more surprised they worked. But even if they are cheap. Couldn't fault them in this instance. I've had to order a blow torch as the big 19mm nuts are well stuck. I've heard about a few people breaking the captive threaded studs these attach to. So not taking any risks. Heat required....
  14. I realise I'm jumping around a bit. A few half finished jobs on the go But currently the car is on axle stands with a few plans for winter fixes. So i picked up the ultraracing front brace and I'm halfway through removing the old rusty one. It was going ok untill I rounded a bolt. (Despite being really carefull, using 6 point sockets and a gently gently approach) Anyway, I had some extractor sockets from when I was doing the kidney brackets.(didn't end up using them there) and with out much expectations I hammered one on. Have to say I am soooo impressed. Hanging off it with the breaker bar. It held fast and removed the bolt. 100% my new favourite tool.
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