jedethridge

Hi All, I have an 07 350z hr which has the auto folding mirror mod from this forum. The heated mirrors have never worked on the car but the rear heated screen is fine. The underlined fuse blows when the heated rear screen button is pressed (when the relay click can be heard). Has anyone had this issue or had experience with heated mirrors not working. Ps. I realise most likely it is a short to ground somewhere which is why I suspect the auto folding mirror mod. As far as I can tell the wiring for the mod is correct. Thank you in advance.

Hi, @Bunning Thank you for the story, great news to hear a wipe of a map is possible. It will probably be another month before I can save enough pennies to get this sorted but will definitely post what my solution was and how it was fixed, I do not want anyone else to have to experience this.

Hi All, I got hold of a used heater control module, unfortunately this has not solved the issue. I am thinking there must be a valve that opens and closes to allow more or less hot coolant through like older cars I know. Has anyone experienced this sticking open? Is there even a valve for heater temperature control? Thank you in advance as always for any advise.

Hi, @Sim Funnily enough what kicked this all off was trying to get the 350 mapped after I installed sports headers, cats and a long tube intake. The guys at Horsham Dev do not seem to be a bad tuner, from what I have been able to read online alot of people have issues with UpRev as a software. Definitely want my z mapped just not with the UpRev software which has most likely got me into this situation in the first place.

HI all, @Andy_Muxlow I have spoken to Horsham and of course they recommended me to book in for diag. Mulgari is currently looking into his connections to see if anyone can assist, since it has only been a few weeks and the car is still driveable my current thought is too wait and see what Mulgari comes back with and then I will probably be forced down the Horsham route or Nissan route. @ZMANALEX Big thank you for the Abby Motorsport mention, any lead is a win at this point. Having read through reviews of Up-rev I would prefer it not be a part of my car if I can help it. @Sim From what Mulgari told me this is the reason an overwrite won't work. Some of the data for the map has become corrupted meaning the car (in a broad term) does not know what to do because it cannot read the corrupted data, this explains the very brief stutters that occur at consistent rpms while driving (at least it makes sense to me for the stutters to correlate), An overwrite would not get rid of the corrupted data so the car would still drive badly or become even worse, thus the path I am on now -_- This may take a few months to resolve but I will make sure to update the thread in case anyone is unfortunate enough to have the same occur.

Thank you all for the advise, I have gotten the PN and code and will confirm whether this fixes the issue when I source a new unit.

Hi Paul, Thanks for this, great to hear from some who has had the same issue. Just to clarify, by the same code do you mean part number or is there another code somewhere. (I am well versed with taking this module out to have a look)

Hello All, The car is a 2007 hr (if that makes difference). I have an issue which unfortunately I have not been able to find anyone else have. On the heater controls for temperature I have two clicks which provide cold air (A/C on and off) and the rest provides hot air, it feels like max temp hot air as I cannot feel a difference whether the dial is on the 3rd click from coldest, right in the middle or set to the highest temperature. All other functions work with air flow direction, fan speed, re-circ, A/C etc. The coolant was changed by me 1000 or so miles ago and is definitely fully bled, car does not overheat and does not seem to warm up from cold too slowly or too quickly Any advise will be most appreciated as I don't really know where to start to diagnose what is causing this.

Hello All, I have an issue that I never saw coming, TLDR - The car was re-mapped by Horsham Developments under the previous owner, the car has the Up-rev software, I have changed the intake and entire exhaust system and went to get it re-mapped by Mulgari Cars, Mulgari drove my z with a data logger and found alot of the data in the map was corrupted. Mulgari recommended getting a OEM map, unfortunately he cannot get hold of one himself, Nissan won't wipe and install a clean map (only do ECU replacement for £2000 ish), here we are. Every other tuner I have spoken to cannot wipe a map only overwrite it which will not fix the problem. More Detail: Especially between idle and 2000rpm the engine stutters (did this before and after intake and exhaust mods) and feels like it has cams installed, the power steps two times before hitting VVT. Around 1800rpm the car used to have a big stutter like the fuel had been turned off but high revs have always been smooth, replacing the fuel damper has fixed this issue. Spark Plugs have also been replaced along with the rocker covers as the spark plug seals had gone. I am assuming the injectors are good as from 3000rpm upwards the engine is smooth and definitely pulls all the way to 70mph ;) Any idea if the Up-rev software encodes data which would show up as corrupted to a data logger (seems unusual for only some info to be encoded)? Anyone have an OEM map file lying around? Thank you in advance, I have put some serious effort into restoring this car and I am very frustrated to come across an issue that is impossible for me to solve.

To anyone coming back to this I can confirm it was the alternator bearing, Did a lot of mods and the gearbox service was delayed which delayed getting the car ready and I did not want to say the issue was fixed without properly knowing

Hi, Sorry for not responding for a few weeks, I realised you were right with the noise being louder from the drivers side. I ordered a alternator pulley as it was cheap but have now discovered than it was only the pulley and not the one way bearing that I ordered, from this I am guessing it is more likely to be the PAS pump. PAS Fluid is basically black instead of red or clear, guessing doing a fluid flush would not solve this? I doubt the PAS fluid has ever been changed. Fluid level is halfway between min and max (cold). Pitch of noise does increase with engine speed, it will increase with revs and then reach a limit, almost like a pump catering to demand and the reaching max speed.

Hi All, A few details on this issue: Does not occur on cold start, only when the engine goes above 3000rpm and then the noise stays for an inconsistant amount of time. The car has done 116000 miles, the automatic belt tensioner, both idler pulleys and the surpentine belt have been replaced within the last month. I believe the noise is slightly louder from the nearside (right side in the video), can an ac pump casue a noise like this? I have read some past threads and this noise could also be the power steering pump, I could not confirm as the videos in the threads were no longer available -_- Does this sound like the case to anyone who has changed thier power steering pump? I have yet to spray silicone lube on each pulley to see if I can identify the location of the noise. Any help and advise is greatly appreciated, thank you in advance <3

Hello All, Hope you are all doing ok during this year which I can only describe as a major kerfuffle I have a few questions regarding my gearbox and greatly appreciate anyone who takes the time to reead through this. Apart from the VIN number is there a way to identify whether I have a CD009 or CD00A gearbox? The car is a 57 and I heard that CD009's were put in up to the end of 06 but cannot verify that. To give some context, the car has now done 111500 miles and needs 5th and 6th gear synchros replacing. I bought it at 110000 miles and cannot see any evidence (paperwork) of the gearbox being refurbed. Previous owner mainly did motorway miles with spirited driving, SMF has been on for 61000 miles, gearbox oil changed at correct intervals. Changed gearbox oil last month with the oil looking like a stary night sky. Only when cold there is a whirring bearing noise with sqeaky pitch to it (not the release bearing because it needs replacing), could it be input/ output shaft bearing(s)? Noise occurs in neutral with clutch both engaged and disengaged as well as in every gear. Along with the synchros are there any parts I should order in preperation for a full strip down (by a gearbox specialist)? Thank you in advance!

Thank you to all that have welcomed me. Admittedly it was a tad soul crushing learning that my purfect z does not exist from factory, however this opens up another route. Please feel free if this is not the correct thread, but could you guys give some advise on buying cheaper 350z hr's, are ones with over 100k miles ok, are there specific things I should look for and avoid? Thanks in advance

Hello all, My name is James and for some dumb reason I have decided that in 2004 when a certain need for speed game released I wanted a 350z. I have naturally made life hard for myself and ideally am after a hr gt in sunset orange if such a car exists. I am finally able to afford one and would really like to get involved in this community. So Do you guys know of any 350z hr gt's in sunset orange for sale? and Advise on getting involved with the forum/ club