Ry-B

Looking good mate, great choice of wheel in my opinion and actually been toying with the idea of the 57DR in this size myself for a while now, so good to know they fit! Having said that if your LMGT4s came up for sale I might have to reconsider... I think the bronze would look good as I really like it on my Kuro black but certainly not an urgent change

Welcome along! Based in Bracknell so might see you around

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I think they must of changed it last year, If I remember correctly I done 3 trackdays at Bedford last year. 2 with MSVT and 1 with Javelin and they only done a static test at the Javelin one. @FancyTeapot if you are really worried about it and located near to Bedford you should be able to pop down to an upcoming trackday and ask for a noise test. Or picking up a cheap decibel meter yourself will give you a rough idea

Done a few trackdays at Bedford with a Cobra non-res system and stock Cats, didn't have any issues with the static test or drive by. My mate with High Flow Cats and Cobra resonated system did get a couple of warnings as he was coming close to the Drive by limits but they are reasonable and work with you

Not the type of wheel you are looking for but hopefully gives you an idea of bronze on a black 350, this is a very light bronze and I think a gold/ dark bronze would look great, I'll keep an eye out for when the Enkei are up for sale

I needed to replace the tyres when I bought my 350z and went with Kumho PS71 which were just over £400 fitted. I've done about 4000 miles and 4 track days on them (2 of them wet days) but personally I'm very happy with them, I think they provided great grip on them days, the current road conditions, and wear seems to be very good with plenty of life left. So I'll probably buy them again when the time comes! I did look at PS4 but decided that the £200 odd difference was better spent on good pads and brake fluid so I didn't have any issues on track. As others have said you don't want to forget about things like Alignment, worn bushings, brakes, etc. Personally the last thing I would want to do is put expensive tyres on and the car still feel terrible/ tyres not last as the alignment is out or bushings are worn

Just reading through and looks good so far! Just wondering what you used to take it back to bare metal? assume it needs something a bit more serious than a wire wheel?

Mix of both from what I remember, started with a breaker bar and from memory it didn't feel great more like I was bending the whole stud rather than twisting the nut unless I was on my back pushing on the socket and pulling the bar with the other hand. So went on to impact which struggled a bit (had to keep stopping as the nut was getting so hot) but like I said I was working with tacky thick underseal which was clogging up the threads big time I took some photos so can dig them out if you want to show how I was setup and working

Mine weren't rusty as the previous owner had put a thick underseal on all the nuts and threads, but I did have to go through the pain of wire bushings and release fluid to get it all off. You just want to be careful when breaking them and taking them off as the last thing you want to do is snap the stud, one of mine got stuck near the bottom of the thread and I just ended up cutting the nut off and buying new ones from Torqen (was planning to replace them anyway). Once the pin stay and subframe is out then you have full access to clean the thread up so shouldn't be any issues going back on

I dropped my subframe on my drive about February last year to replace bushings and clean up rust, the drive certainly isn't flat and only had the rear of the car on axle stands anyway so the car itself wasn't level. I had a second pair of hands to help when actually removing the subframe and putting it back in, there wasn't really any issues lowering the subframe but using a trolley jack to lift the subframe up we did need to tilt and reposition a lot to get it back in What I will say is when it comes to rust treatment its always a bigger job than you think, If you gone to length to drop the subframe out you want to do a proper job so I spent a long under the car wire-wheeling. Something I didn't account for and looking to go back and do is removing the fuel tank as it stops you reaching/ treating a lot of the areas (from my understanding you need to remove the subframe to remove the fuel tank)

I'll have a crack until others who probably know more than me come along Do you check your oil regularly and if so is it going down? Do you have to top the car up a lot? This would be the easiest way to tell if you are burning oil in my opinion What colour is the smoke on hard acceleration and start up? Generally cars will use a bit of oil especially after the age and mileage most of the 350z are now

@Cornwall-Bow PM me if you are interested, might be able to sort something out with shipping

BUMP now approved