danielb186

Ok guys need some help please. My brakes were sticking on (brembo fronts) so went to change them it turns out the brake pad retaining clips (the ones that bolt onto the side of the caliper) has snapped and was causing the brakes to stick in place, anyone know where to get one from or even what they're called It's not the spring clips with the pins that go on top its the ones the pads sit into. Shown in picture taken off the internet

So guys I woke up to find some c*$# has tried to break into my car and broke my A piller trim Does anyone know where I could get a replacment??

Found it someome had been messing about with the main engine loom, fed the wires back through the hole in the firewall, didn't bother to put a grommet back on it all this because of that! Ill get a grommet tomorrow, and Hopfully that'll fix my issue!

I found a water leak coming in on the passenger side and wetting the eletrics and ecu i think this is my issue but I don't know where the water is getting in from :/

More help please, so after while of having no issues i didn't take the car to nissan, stupid i know, but i took my car for a clean today, and after a jet was the imobiliser has stayed active again, everytime this has happened its either been raining or like I said had a jet wash. Any ideas?

I've booked it into Nissan on Thursday, I spoke to a technician he can confirm that my error is the the NATS system and the IMMU is the cause and will need to be replaced. They're going to do a full diagnostic check, then replace the IMMU and the cost is £100 labour and the price of the part which is £110 so it's not too bad.

Car details: 2004 350z with an aftermarket rev up engine. Hey, guys and gals, So I've had my car for a few months, with no major issues, however yesterday I drove to a few shops and then at my last stop when I got back in the car to set of home the car wouldn't start. After allot of research I realised the immobiliser light was still on, on-top of the dashboard. After being stuck in a car park for about 3-4 hours yesterday while waiting for a pickup, the car decided to fix itself and allowed me to start the car and drive home. I then drove the car home, and later that evening went back out, and back home again no issues. Today I went out to go to the shops went to the hardware shop, no issues then went to asda.... got back in the car and it happened again. This time I had to get it recovered home. More information: So after allot of research I am 90% sure that this is an error with my NATS, I have the error code P1610 and P1612. I have tried everything I can think of and every suggestion I can find online including; using my second key, disconnecting the battery for half an hour and then trying the key, 10 on 5 off, resetting the ecu using "pedal dancing" and the obvious... crying.... Am I correct in assuming the only options I have for this is to take it the Nissan to get them to fit a new IMMU and reprogramming my keys to it? Or to purchase a uprev licence and get a remap and while they're doing that get them to remove the NATS completely? Any and all advice welcome, Thanks guys

Just an update guys, I backed the bolt as far back as possible to bring the pedal out, Bled the car again, it was feeling better but still not perfect, I did the thing with the plank against the pedal for the night came back the next day and it felt great! So I've re adjusted the pedal down so the bite isn't in the steering wheel. Hahaha, Thanks for all the help, happy to say this is sorted =D Also for anyone else doing it, quick tip if you are backing the pedal off using the spindle at the back if you back the nut all the way back you can use that instead of trying to grab it with pliers. =D

@Doom I haven't had chance to do it yet as I was called into work. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get it done. =D

@Keyser ok bud Ill do it Sunday and let you know cheers for all the help!

@Keyser cheers for the help bud i did what you said and the clutch felt great! (Nice pressure) however it still seems to stick about 3/4 of the way up holds there for about half a second then pops all the way up with a clunk. I tried adjusting the pedal (now my biting point is really low which is how i like it) but its still doing the stick and clunk everynow and again.

Hey @Keyser just to clarify after leaving the pedal down for afew hours are you opening the bleed nipple with the wood before starting the usual bleed procesure, or do you let the pedal back up and pump it before you open the nipple?

Ok guys so i replaced my flex line and slave cylinder as my clutch was sticking. I have done the usual method of bleeding and have some pressure but it seems to still stick and it feels spongey, I've tried everything I can think of... - I've adjusted the master rod, and tried the normal method of bleeding. - I've tried leaving the clutch pressed in for afew hour's and then trying to bleed it. - I even bought a pressure bleeder (see picture) which didn't work because the caps were to small, someone said that if you drill a 10mm hole into your cap you can use that aslong as you tie it down. Well I did that and tied it down with cable ties but air is escaping around the seals on the cap any advice?

Hey guys im wondering if you can help, my idle pully tensioner bolt has snapped on my 350z and I cant find a replacment anywhere, I think I have the part number for the kit but no one seems to be able to get it. The part number is 11927ag30a If not I dont suppose you know if the tensioner bolt from the ac belt would work on the other pully? You can see the pulley and tensioner bolt I need in the picture. Any and all help would be great! Thanks

Do i want to ask how much a pump is?