Osakakev

Hi, I want to replace the air filter on my 06 JDM as it has been on since my purchase (3 years ago) and not sure when it was originally installed. It’s an API brand but can only find replacements in Japan. Do I need to use the same brand? I can’t tell if it’s a cotton or stainless? I’ve attached some pictures Thank you in advance! Kev

It’s definitely not standard as paint code for car is silver 😂

Thank you 👍

Will get into body shop and full respray it just want to make it less obvious for now

Hi My 350 is a Japanese import with non standard colour and a Weber Sports body kit and I have a little bumper damage. I’m after a touch up pen as a temporary measure but how can I find the correct paint? It’s a small amount of damage and will be temporarily so roughly similar will be ok for now. I’ve attached a picture of anyone can guess 🤣 Thank you

Hi, I bought this code reader for my 2006 JDM import; ANCEL JP700 JOBD OBD2 Japanese Car Scanner, JDM Automotive Code Reader Check Engine Light OBDII Diagnostic Scan Tool for Toyota Nissan Honda Mazda Subaru Vehicle Diagnosis On JOBD I get a fault code U1001 Can Comm Circuit but when I use the JOBD option it says no fault codes… I don’t have issues (other than faulty oil pressure gauge/wiring) Any ideas why it’s only showing up on one option and what is it? Cheers

Thank you, will do!

Hi, Can anyone recommend a garage in the North West that knows their way around a 350? I believe TDI has closed permanently Cheers

I know the nismo opens earlier so thought newer and bigger radiator might need that. Yes could be but strange it's 6/7 weeks afterwards

Just some more info; Heater is super hot when driving on motorway but gets colder the slower I go and the temps rise. The aftermarket sensor (cut into top radiator hose) does not seem to be giving correct readings anymore. It goes to max 90c but fan is already on which was not the case before. (Used to come on at 95c. The stock temp gauge also goes to the middle when idle for a while but aftermarket is still at 90c (in theory this should be higher as got to 90c regularly before whilst staying at quarter mark). Hope this makes sense lol

Cheers, might give it to a different garage to sort as don't have any axle stands Checked and radiator also full

Thanks Zalas. So either still a small airlock or thermostat. Would upgrading the radiator and leaving stock (assume from 2006) thermostat cause this?

I'm definitely not losing any coolant out of the reservoir tank (i.e. it's not bubbling over) I do loose a bit from the temp adaptor but minimal and probably just needs tightening up (it's new along with the hoses)

It's just under the full mark. It's always moved slightly from hot to cold but nothing big (not sure if this is normal). Sorry not sure what you mean by staying pressurised? Don't know massive amount about cars tbh

Thanks Davey. I'm fairly sure the heaters were working after it was re-bled the first time and the fans were definitely kicking and going off once cooled down as normal so it's only happened in the last day or so (car is used daily). Could a small air lock reappear in the system or not be noticed for a while? One thing I haven't checked is coolant level in radiator but expansion tank is full

Hi, I had a radiator change with new rap cap in early July and it started overheating when I got it back. It turned out to be an airlock which mechanic cleared and all had been fine for nearly 2 months. Today the temps were climbing quicker than usual at idle and heater is luke warm. The max it gets at warn idle is just over 90c and the fan kicks in but then stays on it doesn't reduce. The stock temp gauge goes from its usual quarter mark to half way. Could this be an airlock still or thermostat? Coolant reservoir is full. My amp has recently started blowing fuses, I'm sure it's not related just thought I'd say! Car is 06 Rev Up Thank you

Thanks Docwra. Yeah think the previous owner in Japan went a bit OTT on the mods! Yeah good idea all turn it in occasionally to ensure it works

Thank you all. Once switched on the noise is most audible lying under the rear of car by the ARC Oil cooler so likely it's a pump for this. I assume under normal driving it's not worth switching this on?

Thank you both! Any easy way to tell if fuel pump or diff oil pump? I have no need for either just way to be aware of all mods! Docwra - definitely no TC at the minute haha

Oh good shout never thought of that! It was definitely used for drifting as it amongst others mods; GT Wing, Roll cage, Semi locked Diff, ARC Diff Oil Cooler, Greddy Engine Oil Cooler Any easy way to tell if it's definitely fuel pump? Turn it on and see if it's even more uneconomical? 🤣 It probably wasn't the wisest choice for a daily commuter lol

Oh, could be but the button just lights up and the rear of the car buzzes, nothing on the dash. I do suspect however that the traction control is off and lights are blanked out. When starting the car no traction control lights appear, the abs fuse was snipped (now replaced) and the VDC switch is very loose. Unfortunately I need to take the dash off to get at it as roll cage is in the way!! I expected the yaw sensor to be disconnected but doesn't appear so, from the picture below does it look like it's altered? Thank you very much!

Cheers, I imported the car myself and got the fog light switch installed by knee so definitely not that

Hi, Does anyone know what this on/off button does? It lights up and I hear a buzzing noise to the rear of the car... My car is a manual 2006 JDM rev up. Not sure if standard or a modification Cheers

Hi, When I imported my 350z the traction control and ABS were disabled. I'm trying to re enable these but need a bit of help please!! The ABS fuse was snipped so replaced this thanks to zmanalex. The ABS light has been blanked out on the dash so I assume this is now working. I assumed the gyroscope was disconnected but it appears not... picture attached. The VDS button is also very loose and can be physically pushed in! Is there another way of disconnecting it from behind the dash? Cheers

Great thank you!!