OnlyAfro

X, yeh.

How about some more triples?

Oh, rear light of an XKSS

Are you using a DE bonnet or have you swapped to HR? Should give you some more clearance. Can you mount the red highlighted arms rotated 90 degrees inwards, then flip the blue highlighted tie bars to the other side of the throttle actuator, or will everything then clip on other stuff?

Daytona.

There we go

VX220

Don't know the specifics of the base map or UpRev. I'd guess the remap just makes the position translation linear in 1-3, or the same as the other gears, but you can set whatever curve you like. PID settings are global and aren't altered on the fly for different conditions. Changing the PID values isn't something I'd expect anyway, you generally tune the system and then don't touch it. Nissan probably already optimised the step response - minimising rise / settling time, error and overshoot - so I doubt you can make the butterfly open quicker without adding unwanted properties. The butterfly motor actuator will only be able to move so fast anyway. Could be wrong and Nissan may have artificially delayed how fast the butterfly opens, but seems silly to me. One of the tuners would be able to give the more accurate insight.

With a mech throttle, the butterfly opening is directly proportional to pedal position and instantaneous. However, with DBW, there are 3 factors that affect throttle response, the sensor calibration, position translation and PID control. PID control determines the step response of the throttle, i.e. how fast it can react. Position translation determines the correlation between pedal and throttle position. So if gear 1-3 are less sensitive at low throttle, the table would look something like this: *This is just an example of a translation table based on gear, but you could set it up for anything and then implement comps for different factors. Sensor calibration is essentially the same as position translation, but is a global position translation curve. A throttle controller just messes with the calibration, removing resolution, squishing it horizontally, making it more sensitive. The max and min values won't change, but rather than needing the press the pedal fully, you may only need to press it half way to open the throttle fully. The PID step response still limits how fast that can physically happen, but assuming that isn't a bottleneck, in theory you save the fraction of a second it takes to press the pedal that last 50%, but at the cost of lack of control.

Used MyHermes Light & Large via Parcel2Go to ship my AMS GT bumper for £20. No issues.

I'd just pop the tailgate off, it's only 4 nuts and some loom connectors - 5 min job, then you can tip it on one side and give it a bash to dislodge the nut. Put some carpet down first and get a mate to help. Just don't make the mistake I did and drop one of those nuts into the chassis and spend 30 mins fishing it out by holding some powerful magnets against a screwdriver on a piece of wire.

You can run 100, or even 125, on stock internals, but it requires more retard and you'd probably want to use an aftermarket ECU, which is expensive. It depends what your priorities are - personally I'd rather leave a nice safety margin and stick with 75, but one of the great things about NOS is that if you want more, you just swap out the jets for bigger ones (you get a selection of sizes in a kit) and get it remapped.

If done properly and you don't go crazy, it's safe, and costs as little as £1k or so. Stock internals are fine up to ~400whp / torque, so you can safely do a 50/75 shot of NOS. Unlike FI where the power and extra strain is always present, typically with NOS you will have a window switch so it only squirts between say 3k and 6k rpm and a controller so the NOS is progressive, making things even safer. It can be run on the stock ECU and all sorted when you get an UpRev, including a small retard for Men Without Hats levels of safety.

Magnets

Check out these for inspiration. Goes a bit beyond what you'd want for a daily, but gives you an idea: 2725lbs (1236kg) Z - https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-road/595172-350z-gutted-weight-loss-pics-nasa-ttc-prep.html Lots of part weights - https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-and-interior/416242-z-part-weights-with-pictures.html Another lightweight, approx 2905lbs (1318kg) with part weights - http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/173-nissan-350z/69348-official-3point5-weight-reduction-thread-ongoing.html Also worth thinking about weight distribution - relocating the battery into the boot for example - or you'll end up with an even greater front bias. Acceleration from 0 or at low (legal) speeds is traction limited, but if you want acceleration at higher speeds without FI, then NOS is your friend.

Remember that you will need spring compressors to change the front springs.

A remap (UpRev) is the best way to remove the restrictor and will cost about £400. I think TDI North will be the closest company to you that can do it for you. Alternatively, you can just get a device (HKS SLD) to remove the limiter and install yourself, but they are still ~£200 and you don't get all the benefits of a remap. As for the immobiliser, any auto electrician should be able to remove it for you.

A throttle controller won't do anything your right foot can't - the eco mode is the same as not pressing the accelerator pedal as far. If you want good mpg, just use a higher gear, don't accelerate harshly or unnecessarily and avoid braking unless you have to. It's not difficult to get ~28mpg, or 40+ on a motorway, especially if there is too much traffic to have fun.

I just removed them - can't fail them if they aren't there Ripped out all the associated piping, pump and the N/S res, then bunged the O/S res.

Auto-tilting mirrors in reverse. I have my mirrors setup to minimise blind spots, so they are pointed out and up, which is awful for parking and reversing as I can't see the lines, side of the car, or back wheels. If the mirrors could automatically adjust when reverse is engaged, it'd be a great QoL improvement. Doesn't need to be especially complex, something as simple as moving X amount would do the job, which should be pretty easy to control by just sending a voltage for a short, set time to the down function when reverse is engaged and up when it's disengaged.

IT Crowd