Stewal

When you drain the oil you never get it all out: so when you first swapped to w40 grade you already mixed it a little bit with whatever was in there before.......no issues.

Road tax bands is another factor that plays with buyers these days. The numerous bands and rates are a complete mess particularly for newer cars. I know someone who unknowingly got stung for the 'luxury' car surcharge on road tax even though it was several years old. I guess yours will be in the higher post 2006 bracket but even my pre 06 car is nearly £350 these days. Those of us who appreciate bigger engined motors will pay it regardless if we can, but I do feel we are a dying breed that will get spanked in every budget!

I believe the standard sender unit operates both the gauge and warning light, so I suspect if you reconnect the original gauge pod the warning light would work. You would need to get a look at a wiring diagram to confirm this and see if its possible to fool the car into thinking the gauges are still there in order to get the light working.

After a track blast things like the yaw sensor will have been thrown about a bit. On some cars a spurious fault indication takes 5 or 6 cold/hot engine cycles to reset, if not, then I would get the obd read by a more sophisticated reader.

As said, best get the codes read but when I had this it was a camshaft sensor. If it is, it's an easy fix, but don't buy cheap Chinese ebay copies!

I doubt there will be any bulbs in there: they will likely be led's, which won't be a 'service' item but should outlive the car!

Assuming the oil is good and the level correct, I would say confirm the readings with a manual gauge: the senders do fail and should only be replaced with an oem standard one: ebay Chinese copies will be cheap but unreliable. With ac off that idle speed sounds right: put the ac on and the idle speed and oil pressure will increase.

14psi. Bear in mind the A/C raises the idle a bit so pressure would indicate slightly more if its running.

Does the 370 have the manual overide switch to operate them (lights have to be on) like the 350 does?

On many cars which share the same reservoir the light washers trip long before the bottle is empty to avoid having nothing for the screen. So it is certainly wise to test with a full reservoir before assuming a fault.

Some insurers offer free chip repairs or minimal cost without it counting as a claim. I think that's the way to go if you can.

Thanks for the tip, but mine is so bad you take the sag out of one area and it reappears somewhere else. It's got the rigidity of cardboard! It's either an expensive metal replacement or nothing and I think I will do what Alex suggested and try running without. Cheers.

My undertray is so poor and saggy I am thinking of removing it and running without it. Has anybody doing this had issues with the wheel arch liners being insecure without the undertray? Cheers

I think you may be chasing your tail here. A drain of 140mA means in 24hrs you are draining just 3 or 4 amps out. That's peanuts for a decent battery of say 70 plus Ahr. If your car will not start after 24hrs with a fully charged battery then I would question that battery. Just because it is relatively new does not mean it is good. Try another battery or get yours load tested: just because it reads a good voltage does not mean it's up to starting the car when massive current load is required of it .

12.1 could be too low to operate the starter. If it's 12.1 at rest it will be a lot less under the load of cranking...... My first option would be try jump starting it from a good battery to rule that out.